Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Airdog 150 + beans fuel sump install advice

[Dodge1994'12v3500]

Hey there, long story short I have another thread about low power at 60 or uphill. Tested my fuel pressure and it was low. Found that the return line mustve had a hairline crack behind the injection pump, and that was only one of my 3 air leaks. I bit the bullet and got an Airdog 150 with the beans diesel fuel sump.
Any install advice would be highly appriciated. And yes I have already bought a case of beer

 

[phantomusa]

I put a sump draw on my 2002 with a airdog but i mounted the pump as close to the draw as possible any pump will work better as a pusher pump then as a sucker pump
Biggest thing to remember is DRAIN the tank first all I did was run my fuel tank down to about 5 gals then i drilled a 1/4" hole where my sump was going and let the fuel drain into a clean bucket and if you have a in tank pump don't put your sump right underneath your old pickup area

 

[BigPapa]

if you have a in tank pump don't put your sump right underneath your old pickup area

It's a 12V, no in-tank pump.

I would've stayed with the factory mechanical pump.

 

[Dodge1994'12v3500]

It's a 12V, no in-tank pump.

I would've stayed with the factory mechanical pump.

I was gonna do that, but I needed to do fuel lines anyways and replacing the stock ones would suck and be $$$. I wanted to run diesel hose from the fuel sump to the lift pump, but I ended up choosing the airdog for the extra filtration and better fuel pressure to keep my brand new injectors clean and last a long time.

 

[BigPapa]

Whatever you want to do. The mechanical pump is more than capable of supplying your P-pump with plenty of pressure, especially in a stock application, and it's as dependable as a hammer, unlike the electric pumps. The rubber parts of the fuel line are easy to replace.

As I said, whatever you want to do, your truck, your money.

 

[GAmes]

......... to keep my brand new injectors clean and last a long time.

I've owned my truck since new. I am currently running the second set of replacement injectors. Stock lift pump, Fleetguard fuel filters. Keep your truck long enough and you'll regret buying an electric lift pump. None of them are as inexpensive or last as long as the mechanical pumps.

 

[Dodge1994'12v3500]

I've owned my truck since new. I am currently running the second set of replacement injectors. Stock lift pump, Fleetguard fuel filters. Keep your truck long enough and you'll regret buying an electric lift pump. None of them are as inexpensive or last as long as the mechanical pumps.

I am thinking about returning the airdog, is it possible to run fuel hose like this?-

Supply line- Fuel sump, diesel hose from sump to the fuel heater assembly. I deleted the heater, but I want to keep the pre filter. What fitting do I need for this? Is there an alternate way?

Return line- Fuel hose all the way from the OFV(Larry B's kit) back to the fuel spout like the airdog's return.

Is this possible? Apologies for my ignorance.

 

[GAmes]

I'm ignorant on how to plumb a sump supply also. Sorry. The only deviation I have from factory is deleting the heater and replacing a bit of the hard lines with rubber hose.

 

[Dodge1994'12v3500]

No problem, time to annoy tdr with yet another new thread!

 

[BigPapa]

You can do it that way if you want.

I would suggest using the steel part of the factory return line, though.



This is how I did mine when I replaced the rubber part of my return line:

I removed the OFV and bent the tube back and forth until it broke at the bracket behind the pump. I then cut the end off clean with a tubing cutter, flipped it upside down, double clamped the new hose to it, and ran it down between the filter and the block to the steel line. I then removed the other end from the steel line at the quick connect and cut the rubber part as far up as I could reach from underneath. Push the new line over the crimp for the quick connect and double clamp it. Simple, won't take you more than 30 minutes, and no need to hack up your fuel filler for a return. Mine's been running like this for a bit over 300K miles.

I also removed the heater and the prefilter when I did the engine swap. Just run you a 1/2" hose from the sump to the fuel pump where the elbow from the prefilter to the pump connects to the pump.

You'll need to cut the prefilter bracket to leave the part between the pump and the block for a spacer or buy you a spacer plate. I would also recommend a stud kit.

 

[Dodge1994'12v3500]

I also removed the heater and the prefilter when I did the engine swap.

Ok, I think I will do it like that and leave the steel lines, I will have to replace the steel part of the return where it meets the OFV though (cracked), so ill just run the rubber line to the steel at the frame and give it a single flare. So I can just throw the pre filter out? I guess that would simplify things. Thank you for all your help! I was really regretting the airdog purchase because of the price. It is unjustifiable. Unless your one of those 1000hp guys I guess.

 

[BigPapa]

I'm sure some here will say to keep the prefilter. Just telling you what I've experienced with no issues.

 

[GAmes]

Keeping the prefilter is painless but I only clean mine at 100,000 mile intervals. I'm of the belief it will extend the life of the lift pump by stopping any large chunks that come out of the tank, like sand if refueling in the wind in Casa Grande, AZ. With it installed you don't need to source a spacer for the lift pump mounting.

 

[BarryG]

If you do need the spacer genos garage now sells them I noticed in the last couple catalogs. And obviously cummins sells them as well but make sure and either use the existing prefilter as the spacer or get the replacement spacer it is needed. Do not ask me how I know.:{