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I just did my first coolant refill on my '04. 5. I had a real scare I'd like to tell all about, and what I was able to find.

My radiator drain was real stubborn to budge, so I was very careful because everything is plastic. Eventually it started to move and I drained the system. I collected just over 5 gallons as I was parked on a slight nose down incline on purpose.



When I went to close the drain is when the fun started. It just wouldn't close. It would just spin, but I could feel notches approx every quarter turn.

At this point I'm thinking I'm going for a new radiator :{ . I decided to put a vise grip on the valve and do-or-die pull out what's left since it was just floating around in the hole. I got a male part and a female part. The female part was square on the outside with one way tabs so it would lock in, like a wall anchor. I was able to see where it was broken. Obviously, the threads were locked, and the outer female part yielded.



I decided to close up shop and regroup after a shower since I took an antifreeze bath. I went online and found that Dorman (they make the HELP! stuff) made a line of radiator drain valves, but nothing listed for our vehicles. I browsed the illustrations and found this.



Dorman Products - 253



It looked good. I called Autozone and through a GM application shown on that web page, they had it in stock. I ran down and shelled out the $4. 00. I had to go out last night, so this morning I ran out and with my monster channelocks, I squeezed it right in and it snapped into place. I was satisfied with how it tightened up, and didn't leak.



I proceeded to refill with the new Zerex GO-5 and thankfully, didn't have to for a new radiator. Big Sigh of relief.
 
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Same here but I got mine repaired

When I went to close the drain is when the fun started. It just wouldn't close. It would just spin, but I could feel notches approx every quarter turn. QUOTE]
Mine did the same thing. But after many foul words I thought why would it just feel notchy like you described. Well I reached up and just pulled the old plastic wing screw thing out. It's only held in with a barbed type end. I then found a bolt of the same threads and inserted it and screwed it in. It seems to hold just fine. I took some pliers ans tugged on the bolt a bit and apparently the nut insert they installed in the plastic side tank had just moved back far enough so that the stock plastic wing nut thingy wouldn't catch a thread. By me pulling on the other bolt I installed I must have moved it back into the correct position. I reinstalled the stock piece and it threaded in just fine thus sealing the radiator as it was supposed to. And yes I thought I was going to have to buy another radiator.

Oo.

I figured they just popped a plastic insert nut into the plastic side tank. It seems reasonable I think because manufacturing, (ie. molding), the insert in the tank inside that small opening would require more costly mechanical molding techniques. The nut must be loosely captured inside the tank.

Any way I got mine repaired but not before I took an antifreeze bath.

:-laf
 
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Wish I would have found that before I dropped 600 bones on a new radiator. I drained the coolant to repair the HVAC doors and ran into the same trouble you guys described, however the threaded fitting had collapsed completely INTO the radiator itself. Low and behold, the new radiator had been superceded by a new part number (redesigned petcock) and was on national back order. Figures.



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Glad it was an easy fix! I'll keep this in mind next time I do a flush.



You prolly wouldn't have to. You prolly have the cleanest system in all of TDR land :). I'd say that once it's been disturbed, it'll be ok.



@ motorhead, IIRC, the lower hose connection is a bit far up the tank to get a good dump.



@ Kry226, I was bracing for the worst and it was not so bad for a spectra (typical aftermarket) at Rockauto.com...
 
I believe in Jim jelag theory. They don't flush. They however test it annually and recharge the cooling system if needed. They also check the PH balance and add anti-rust and lubricant when needed for the water pump.



That's what I plan to do.



george
 
The factory fill on 3rd gens is already long life (5year/150K miles), sure isn't a lot of work to flush at that rate.

I also haven't seen an additive to "restore" HOAT yet, with as picky as I hear HOAT is I would want a HOAT specific additive.
 
@ Andres, I wouldn't worry about the hoses, It's the clamps that rot and break.



@ Grizzly, Yes but with this HOAT stuff, it's a bit different. I work on Heavy Equipment, and test coolant for Nitrites all the time- everything has a water filter on it. Recently I used the test strip in a new F550/ 6. 4 that has the factory fill, which is Morotcraft gold, which I believe is also GO5, the test strip was good for protection, but went berzerk in color for the additive we look for. Ithink it's a different ballgame when comparing to a traditional HD extended life coolant.

I was over in time for the HOAT, that's why I dumped. BTW, the color of the Zerex is a bit different, looks like weak Snapple iced tea. The guy at Autozone who tried to sell me Prestone said whatever I put in would be clear and would take on the color of the Factory fill.

I just went outside a while ago and checked for freeze protection, after a few heating cycles. With the 50/50 premix, and what was left over, I have -40*.
 
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@ Grizzly, Yes but with this HOAT stuff, it's a bit different.



I think that was Grizzly's point - jelag is running the HOAT stuff with no replacement over long mileages.



I ought to get some of those test strips, just to see where I am after 6 years. I'm running propylene glycol.



-Ryan
 
On the crossflow radiators with the fake drain plug, I use a syphon hose.



Nick



Funny, Nick, that you say that! :) I changed water pump last weekend and couldn't get drain plug out. So instead of pulling the whole thing out and bathing in coolant, I syphoned it out of the fill neck.



(only needed it emptied enough to replace pump anyway... )



Daniel
 
Worst case you should be able to have the bottom tank replaced... . not a whole new radiator. I had a side tank blow open on a GM truck years ago. Same construction The tank is crimped on. It has a rubber gasket in the flange. They bend the tabs out, replace the tank and re-bend the tabs.
 
Worst case you should be able to have the bottom tank replaced... . not a whole new radiator. I had a side tank blow open on a GM truck years ago. Same construction The tank is crimped on. It has a rubber gasket in the flange. They bend the tabs out, replace the tank and re-bend the tabs.



Dodge was not as helpful. No part number for part of the radiator that we could find. No part number for new petcock assembly either. I spoke with service and parts.
 
Dodge was not as helpful. No part number for part of the radiator that we could find. No part number for new petcock assembly either. I spoke with service and parts.



Try a radiator repair center. They might know more than Dodge. Dodge doesn't make radiators. Radiator repair centers deal with radiator oem's.
 
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