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All 4 ball joints out on my 01

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Last week I heard and felt some strange things from the front end, went to the local front end shop. After a test drive and some searching it was deamed that the ball joints on bothe sides are very loose. Called my dealer and he was as surprised as I was.

I do alot of off the main road driving but my 98 4x4 held up and have never heard of premature (30k) wear on ball joints in Dodges.

So now the 01 is down, my 98 is in for a motor (see prods/acc 98 12v dead), and I'm down to my 74 1/2T 4x4. It is to **** cold to drive the Mean Green Wind Machine. LOL

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01 Excab 4x4 Driftwood, agate interior, Potect grilleguard, DeeZee FX black, Weatherguard crossbox, Montezuma tool box, Honda air compressor, fold down g/n hitch.

Geno's pillar mount combo guage, deactivated wastegate, custom exhaust, 5"
chrom tip, PE EZ, Hot PE box, DDIIs, Dunrite TC, Transgo shift kit, and K&N air filter.

Performance Diesel Dealer
 
I checked my 01 4x4 upper ball joints 1st week I had the truck and I don't think there was any grease from the factory because it took about 5-10 pumps from my grease gun to fill the grease seals to the point they puked grease. I don't wanna start a witch hunt, but I do believe they were dry...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
 
bpete-

The reason why your balljoints went out so soon is because they were on my truck for the first 15,000 miles. I had mine changed per the tsb after much dialogue with the dealership in Alvin. They just boxed them up and sent them back as overstock. They used them on your truck two years later... that's my story and I'm sticking to it #ad


243

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99 QC 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
Walker 21468, VDO, Bridgestone 285/75/16 MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500's

-- email address removed --
 
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Well, I decided to check my upper ball joints last night. I slowly pumped grease into them until the grease just started to ooze out. It took 8 shots a side. Does that mean they were dry from the factory? Only 8,000 miles on the truck.

Steve


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2001 2500 SLT QC LWB 4x4, AT, 3. 54 anti-spin, tow package, camper special, snow plow prep, travel group, SRW, RKE, fog lights, bright white / agate, Cody gooseneck hitch, silencer ring?, A-pillar mounted VDO Vision EGT, transmission temp, and boost guages.
 
A friend of mine's truck was shipped by rail and he had to have his ball joints replaced after about 3000 miles. Somthing about rail shipping and the truck swaying back and forth. Your milage may vary

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Eric Pitts Terre Haute Indiana
2001 Properly Valved 2500 Qcab 4X4 auto Transgo shifts it 4. 10 LSD Prime-Loc Weston Nerf Bars Smith built brush guard Command Remote Starter Scotty Air DD stage 1’s, boost fooler, elbow 32psi boost 247hp,657tq Neophyte B. O. M. B. er
The Pitts Home Page
Member GLTDR
 
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I thought there were no,grease fittings on ball joints,i know all i have on my 2000 is three. .

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David Foster
 
Add me to the dry ball joint club. Checked mine this morning, ten pumps each with a standard manual grease gun to get a small amount of grease out of the joints. It was the grease I put in, no evidence of existing grease in the joints. Same thing with the zerk on the steering linkage.

Dave D

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2001. 5 QC LB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 Everything but Leather Bright Silver Metalic ARE K Series Diprocal EGT, Boost and transmission Temp in an Autometer Dash Pod
 
I'm hearing a loud "popping" noise come from the front left tire/suspinsion area when hitting small holes or ruts. Especially at slow speeds while turning. Is this possibly related to the ball joint problems people are having?

What is the difference between a ball joint that needs to be replaced and one that just needs grease?

How many lube points are there total on the new trucks? I had 5 lube points on my 96'. I've found 4 on my 01' and greased them all just a few weeks ago.

Thoughts appreciated.


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2001 SLT QC 4x4 ETC 5spd LWB 3. 54 Black/Agate leather. DD2's w/boost module, ISSpro boost/pyro gauges on A-pillar. Custom full bumper/brush guard and headache rack, Seal-Tite tool box, B&W turnover ball.
 
Glad I shot a few pumps into mine the first week or two. I did not put anywhere near the pumps you guys are talking about, so I guess I need to add some more. I just thought it couldn't hurt, had no idea they were probably dry.

Walker, you say you found 4 fittings?? I found one on each of the upper ball joints and one one the LH end of the Track Bar. Where did you find the other one?

Anybody know for certain how many fittings are on a 2001. 5 4X4?

Shelby

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2001. 5 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH, DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with a Gray Interior. Built 09-15-00, took delivery on 10-06-00, 1749 miles as of 11-25-00. Custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Coming soon: E-Brake and gauges.
 
Walker-

I had a popping sound in the front and I noticed the inner tread blocks have been scalloping the last two months.

TXRam and I checked it out and found that the tierod end at the pitman arm was worn out. We checked the joint by sawing the steering wheel back and forth similar to checking the trackbar.

I still hear a popping sound when backing up. I suspect this is the rear brake adjusters; however, the balljoints may be going bad as well.

In my opinion, with only 60K it's to early for these parts to be worn out especially with little off road driving. If a balljoint is bad, I am going to replace every replaceable part on the front end with the exception of the tierod and trackbar.

243
 
To check your ball joints, jack up either front wheel. Then tack a long bar ans stick it under the wheel and pry up. If you can raise the wheel or feel slack, the your ball joints are severly wore. One should replace them ASAP. Chances are they will not fail completely, but it has happened!

Be Safe
Be Cool
Brant
 
Brant-

Thanks for the tip, I'll check the balljoints this weekend. Since my last post, I found that the other end of the drag link was bad and have since replaced it.

243
 
243- or anyone.
Explain what the "inner tread blocks" are. I guess by "scalloped" you mean worn or cupped some how. Is this the same thing you found at the end of the tie rod at the pitman arm? Are we talking about a bushing of some kind to be replaced. Post what you find out when you do the tie rod test.

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2001 SLT QC 4x4 ETC 5spd LWB 3. 54 Black/Agate leather. DD2's w/boost module, ISSpro boost/pyro gauges on A-pillar. Custom full bumper/brush guard and headache rack, Seal-Tite tool box, B&W turnover ball.
 
Walker-

I was referring to the inner tread blocks of my tires. They are mud terrains and it's very easy to see when they are wearing to fast or cupping.

The Factory Service Manual calls the whole bar the draglink even though there are two ends that can be replaced plus the sleeve in the center.

243
 
Guys,
My 95, 12 valve has had the ball jonts changed twice, once at about 40K and again at 80K both times you did not need a prybar to find it, just jack up the front and wiggle the tire, 1/2" play. Come to think of my buddies 97 12 valver has had his changed as well.

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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .
 
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