All windows quit?

[MarkEkberg]

Windows quit all at the same time?



No function from drivers master switch and nothing from individual windows. Figured it had to be a fuse, but it was good. 40a under hood is also tied to ignition.



I took the switch box out, and am currently trying to get inside it, but it is not cooperating. I am sure I am going to end up breaking it to get it open.



Is there another fuse panel or would the window motor have to pull 40a to pop it?

 

[jclark5810]

Mine use to do that every now and then, those switches are notoriously troublesome. It may even be the wires running through the door. I'd try wiggling the wires looking for a short before you break the switch. Those are spendy!

 

[MarkEkberg]

I did get it open, but it really didn't help much. I tested for power and all I get is 5v+ on a small white wire with a green tracer.

Headed to a wrecking yard and a parts house to see of someone has one to find out if mine is actually bad.

 

[seafish]

First try cleaning it with electrtcial contact cleaner and blowing it out with compressed air... they often get loaded up with cr*p that falls into the switches, gumming up the contacts inside.

 

[MarkEkberg]

I cleaned as good as I could, put all back together and now windows and door locks don't work. Insert bad words here.

Prior to taking apart only windows didn't work. New master control on the way.

Still a couple questions.

1. Is there another fuse panel besides the one under the hood? I find it hard to believe that a 40a fuse it tied to the windows?
2. Is it a low volt relay set-up or do the switches carry the load? Non of those wires could carry 40a?

 

[MarkEkberg]

Bump.

Got my new switch today installed and now I am back to the original problem of no windows. Have looked for another fuse panel and do not see one. Still trying to figure out what wires feed power, and where it comes from.

Does anyone know what else is on the windows circuit? Says ignition on the power block, but there must be something else.

I have tried using the search function with no results?

 

[Wayne M.]

Mark, I don't know how to print my screen here, but my diagram shows that you should have a solid 12VDC in RUN or ACC at the fuse which leads to cavity #9 in connector 1 on the main switch which should be a pink/ yellow wire. If not then you need to look in the door wires or back in the harness. The black/ brown on the same connector is the ground for the entire circuit. I dont know where the actual ground terminates but it's known as G302 and I'd bet its near the pillar/ hinge area.



I know the power window circuit in any vehicle is real confusing and tricky to diagnose correctly the first time. The main problem on our Rams is wires breaking in the boot where the door hinges- especially the rear doors. But that only effects the rear doors. And switches failing internally.



If anything and you have power and ground at the very least the driver window should work.

 

[Wayne M.]

I just reread everything, and noticed the lock problem. I would stop probing around until you got diagrams. I haven't explored the lock circuit, but I see that the instrument panel and modules are involved. If you're seeing 5VDC somewhere, you're probably on a delicate bus circuit. Be careful!

 

[MarkEkberg]

Thanks for the info. Never thought windows were so important, but holy cow look out when they don't open. Chatted with previous owner and told me he had problem with pass windows not working, but being able to control them from drivers seat. That sounds like the switch failed. Problem I have now is new. My old stroke is looking better and better every day.

The lock problem was because I took the master switch apart and messed things up pretty bad.

Going to keep working on it today. family vaca coming up, and need those windows.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Of all places ask.com I found out there is a 25a circuit breaker under the dash completely hidden taped to a wire loom. The breaker tests good, but there is supposed to be 12v to the 12g blue wire and there is not. After the breaker it goes to a brown 12g wire that heads out to the door. confirmed brown wire in middle of lock plug.

Have found the grounds. They test good, however none of my wire colors are matching up with what your telling me? Grounds are both black out of the switch plug. One small and one large gage wire.

The feed in is a 12g brown in the center of the window plug. Confirmed to the 12a circuit breaker under the dash.

Looks like this blue wire heads to the ignition switch. Something else to dig into now.

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm going off of my 04 diagram. I guess 03 is way different? No CB under the dash AFAIK. Sorry to hear you're not having a good experience so far.
I was on a 5 year search to replace the old truck I had years ago. I wasn't happy with what I saw in the market and then the 04. 5 came out. I went into big debt but almost 10 years later I'm still smiling. I think my success had to do with resisting mods and KISS ( Keep It Stock Stupid!).
I got my 'ol Mopar to tinker with. I just want the Ram to run everyday. And that it does.

 

[JWiegel]

I have seen alot of the wires that run thru the door be cut from the factory during the build then they just break over time measure resistance on light green wire and from split at door to master switch. and there is two fuses for the windows.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Where is the second fuse? I found the 40A under the hood and the 25A breaker under the dash.

 

[JWiegel]

Off a 05 there is fuse if I can remeber is in the fmc on driver side also you found the circuit breaker ck power into the switch if there's power and ground replace the main master switch

 

[MarkEkberg]

Looked at it again tonight for a bit. My dead wire defiantly come from plug buried in steering column. Waiting for daylight to dive into it, but I am hot on the trail here.

I guess this could be a ignition issue?

 

[MarkEkberg]

FIXED!!!!!

Try to give the readers digest version here.

Finally got the steering column open and unplugged the harness that feeds the 25a breaker that goes to the windows.

No power to blue 10g wire.
I pulled the fuse under hood #9 and started testing to the plug.
Pinkish wire with white tracer, also 10g traced back to fuse block.

For some reason there was no connection in the little black box in the steering column.

I jumped the to pins and everything worked perfect.

Off to the local junk yard. Took one out of a truck for $10.

Everything working and back together.

I have to assume this has happened to someone else? If not hopefully someone remembers this ordeal. Obnoxious to say the least.

If some one wanted to (I read a post about someone wanting to make the windows work all the time) they could easily jump these two wires together and make that happen.


Anyhow hopefully this will help someone else.