Alternator brush R&R

[CumminsPower98]

I just replaced my alternator brushes because starting a few months ago I noticed my lights slightly fluctuating now and then in an erratic pattern (including dome light so not switch). They were not dimming like when the grids come on at start up but less. The end collector ring where the end brush rides was quite worn with a deep groove and the other one was perfect (hope it runs ok for a while). The brushes were worn to the point they were just barely making contact so I'm sure glad I did this now. The truck has 242,411 miles on the clock. I sure hope this fixes the problem.



while the belt was off I also removed the belt tensioner and greased up both bearings. They were still tight and smooth but dry. Just thought I would share my two PM items for the day.



Admin, sorry I meant for this post to go under 12 valve engine and transmission. Could you move it please? Thanks

 

[Demons_Ram]

Source and part numbers?

CumminsPower98,

Are the alternators up to the 2002 model the same as yours?

Was the diode-trio available as well?

How about sharing where you picked up the parts and the part numbers with us...

 

[CumminsPower98]

I got the parts from TDR member Larry Buck: http://www.fostertruck.com/alternators.htm. Acording to the site they are the same from '89-2002 if you have the Denso alternator.

 

[cruiser_2]

I got mine from Gould Gear and Electric. Since I had over 400,000 miles on the origional alternator, I talked with the owner and got the scoop. Replaced the rotor, brushes, bearings and the other various plastic parts. Cost me about $80. 00. Not bad for an alternator that remanufactured costs about 300 bucks.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Well the brushes didn't fix my voltage fluctuation problem. It seems to do it worse when the blower motor is running but I think it might still do it some when heater is off but it's kinda hard to tell. I need to hook up a volt meter that will register actuall real time voltage and monitor that.

 

[DavidC]

Well the brushes didn't fix my voltage fluctuation problem. It seems to do it worse when the blower motor is running but I think it might still do it some when heater is off but it's kinda hard to tell. I need to hook up a volt meter that will register actuall real time voltage and monitor that.

With the ring worn that bad I do not think you have much of a choice than to replace the alternator or replace rotor. The ring could be worn enough to ground thru the shaft.



Dave

 

[CumminsPower98]

Is this ring pretty easy to change? I should probably call up a rebuilder and see if I can get the part. I don't think my voltage problem has anything to do with the alternator, maybe my blower motor is having problems or the control. I would however like to change this ring if I can find one and it's not too hard to change.

 

[bgilbert]

Your voltage fluctuation is more than likely from the grid heaters cycling. This is normal.

 

[CumminsPower98]

It's not the heaters, I know that for sure. This happens while heading down the road fully warm or sitting still. Also it does not dim quite as much as when the grids cycle.

 

[CumminsPower98]

I think I may have found my voltage problem. My fuel heater and it's thermostat/wire harness were fried. The only thing visible was the melted t-stat on top of the fuel heater head. The one wire in there was completely disconnected and could vibrate around and make contact randomly. The fuel heater had crossed my mind like maybe the relay acting up or something but I never checked it out. The new heater is an improved design where the element is crimped to the incoming leads rather then just a spring loaded friction fit.



Hmmmm, I just noticed this is in the 1st gen forum, I sure don't remember doing that...

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

HELLO. .

Do you have the part number for the new heater??



THANKS

Mike In Maine

 

[CumminsPower98]

Fuel heater 3907766-S

Harness 3843722-S



More info in this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26504