I disagree, many 12v's and early 24v's have "120 amp" alternators.
If you look at the Section 8 (charging specs) of a FSM . . starting in 96 the 56027221 (Mopar) was for the Diesel. The manual shows 136 SAE amp and 120 min. amps, ratings.
Perhaps this is some of the confusion Sae amps vs. Min. amps... .
I've rebuilt many of the ND (nippondenso units), then Mopar switched to Bosch as a supplier(Mopar 56028239AB) in the 2001 MY. . For the ND you can swap the later model's rotor and stator to get the higher rating. Also necessary to assure the rectifier (holds the diodes) is matched up properly too if doing this swap.
Since the PCM regulates the charge, should you get the higher amp version on a truck the came with the lower version it won't hurt anything.
My guess is that since so many more were rated higher than lower (by the SAE method), many rebuilders would build the higher output version even though they might rate it at "120. "
For the questions on how long they last?
I've rebuild several that had 220,000 mi+ that had the beginnins of rough bearings and thin brushes, but still tested out at 120 amps +/-. .
I've also rebuilt some that had almost 85,000 mi in harsh environments (sand, dirt from off road), which would be more abrasive to the brushes.
From a practical standpoint, attach a DMM lead to the large stud on the back of the alternator at idle and rev'd up some, does it produce in excess of 13. 5 volts, but less than 15. 1? Good. .
Engine off, belt off, spin the pulley and listen for rough bearings or slide load the pulley/bearing and feel for roughness. The rear of the unit's bearing is about 1/2 the side of the pulley end and usually it gets rough first.
Dayco makes a tensioner pulley.
If you need parts for a alt. or starter repair, send me a PM, with the ND part number (side of case under bracket) and MY of the truck its on...
Be careful of the chain stores, lots of "reman" junk abounds, Hope this opinion helps.
Andy