Alternator: To core or not to core?

[Crunch]

My truck still has the original alternator, and it's working just fine. But I've got a bearing squeak that I've tried to track down since last November. It was very intermittent until the other day, which allowed me to zero in on it. Since the truck is 18 years old I couldn't justify paying for an OEM alternator, especially since the Autozone alternator is guaranteed for life and I'm doing the work myself. But now I face the question of whether or not to turn in a perfectly good original alternator to get back a $40 core charge, or spend another approximately $40 and get the bearing/wheel kit from Geno's. It's unlikely I'll do the work twice and put the original back on, but it is a perfectly good, albeit 18 year old alternator that could be used as a backup if the Duralast craps out until I cash in on the warranty. Any thoughts on what the logical way to go is?

 

[Tuesdak]

Get the kit, rebuild yours, return the “We fire veteran heroes that stop robberies” junk alt to the store and quit using them. Not only over the Autozone corporate cowards there ... but the parts quality is the worst. I had my hand on the fire extinguisher pin, but, the smoke stopped from a alt bearing failure on one of their junk remans. The duracrap brake pad coming off the backing plate was really exciting as it took several pumps to get brakes. Just saying there is better out there.

 

[HPSimpson]

Get the kit from Geno's garage and rebuilt yourself, just take you time, For get about Auto Junk Zone.

 

[GCroyle]

Inspect condition of slip rings first before keeping it. Pull brush holder and look for worn brass or solid black color. Solid black and deeply grooved likely need new d as lip rings. An interesting repair. I chose not to.

 

[JR]

I have rebuilt several starters and altenators through this website, auto, zero turn, tractor.
(Click on parts list).

https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/bosch/er/if/alternator-p11568.html

Everything I have gotten is good quality stuff. Altenators are a straight forward rebuild and from what I have seen out of the reman crowd you will end up with better quality at less cost.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I have rebuilt several starters and altenators through this website, auto, zero turn, tractor.
(Click on parts list).

https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/bosch/er/if/alternator-p11568.html

Everything I have gotten is good quality stuff. Altenators are a straight forward rebuild and from what I have seen out of the reman crowd you will end up with better quality at less cost.

I love this forum for gold bits of information like this.

 

[Bill Lins]

I have rebuilt several starters and altenators through this website, auto, zero turn, tractor.
(Click on parts list).

https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/bosch/er/if/alternator-p11568.html

Everything I have gotten is good quality stuff. Alternators are a straight forward rebuild and from what I have seen out of the reman crowd you will end up with better quality at less cost.

I second the above- rebuilt my Denso with their parts. The hardest part of the job was R&Ring the alternator!

 

[Crunch]

I'll definitely get the bearing/pulley kit from Geno's, but I put the Autozone Bosch reman on for the interim before switching them back out. I can't have my truck down while I wait for the parts and do the job for the first time. I've never rebuilt an alternator or starter before. I will say this about the job: It was a lot more of a PITA than I expected. Just for laughs I checked the Dodge Repair Manual and it looked like it it was going to be a piece of cake. Disconnecting the electrical connections and removing the bolts was easy, but getting the alternator off the bracket and putting the new one on was aggravating. I had to use a pry bar to nudge it off, and it was tight until the last 1/16" inch of the alternator attached to the bracket. I was expecting it to almost fall off when the bolts were removed, like the old school alternators. I laugh now, but I took precautions so it wouldn't fall on any hoses or electrical connections when the bolts came out. Getting the new one in was even more aggravating. I positioned it the best I could and used an old hammer handle and tapping sledge to tap it into place, then spent 20 minutes tapping on it to line up the top and bottom bolt holes. I imagine that if I did about 10-15 of these I would work out a system that would make it easier and quicker. If the original had come off easier I probably would have used a file on the inside of the tabs on the new alternator to remove 1/64" from both tabs. Since it didn't, I figured it was that tight for a reason.

Thanks for the suggestions, people.

 

[HPSimpson]

I have rebuilt several Ram alternators I order the parts from Geno's garage, disconnect both batteries then disconnect cables from the unit, remove the unit, disassembly look the at the inside carefully see everything is OK, cleaned inside up install new bearings. Then carefully ll re-assemble the unit, install back on the engine. Adjust the belt, the last time i replace the belt clean both batteries terminals nice and clean use die electric grease keeps then clean, check all wiring over then start the motor, nice and quiet again.

 

[sag2]

Most generators have a bushing that is pressed into the mounting ear, or it can be on the bracket as well. You have to tap or in this case press it back slightly to get the ears over the bracket. This is from an 18, but the 2003 should be similar.