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Is anyone else looking at aluminum wheels for their dually. I just had a long and interesting conversation with Will Orr about Alcoa wheels.



While Alcoa is saying that they will have a 19. 5 available in about a year, that is what they have been saying for about two years.



What is availably right now is the 16 inch and if there are 9 other people who want a set of alcoa aluminum wheels and have the dollars to spend, there is the posibility of saving about 20 dollars a wheel in a group purchase. Six wheels times 20 dollars = 120 dollars.



I don't have any details to offer at this time but if there is interest I would like to hear from anyone and kick it around.



Also like to hear from anyone who already has dually aluminum wheels as to like and dislike. Problems etc.



1stgen4evr

James
 
James, Philip has a set of 16" American Racing wheels on his W350, that look identical to Alcoas. I saw them last Saturday, and I thats what I thought they were, he said he's had them for 10 years on two different vehicles, and they looked great. Bill
 
At the time I got my wheels the Alcoha's were $1200. installed. The American Racing ones ran me $575. I had to cover the install. I mail ordered them out of Cali. Look in the sport truck magazine and look at the wheel suppliers there.
 
CB. alumin rims are not hard to deal with. Polish them once a year. When they corrode to much to polish out. You dig out some sand paper. Start around 600 grit. Then you work up to 1000 grit. At this fine of paper the rim will have a dull shine. Throw about two apps of mothers polish on it and you are done for another 10 years or so.



I just sanded out three rims last week before the Indy Dyno day. Total time to sand and re-polish was about 6 hours. But this set of rims is ten years old and has been on two different trucks and 4 sets of tires. They still shine good now.



I would post a pic. But Jdurham keeps sending threatening emails about going for a drive to the north. :D :D
 
So you have never had them pit from ice-melt? Guys up here in the NW say that they have there rims start to pit from the ice-melt.
 
Look at the state I live in. It is called the rust belt. Look at Lake MI. I am at the lower point of the lake effect snow belt. They use salt/ice melt/cinders/liquid ice melt of some sorts and so on.



I use my truck almost every day for something. Bill looked at my rims Sat. I showed him the difference between the one rim I didn't sand out and the three I did. So he knows the shape they were in before I started sanding. I wish I had done the 4 th rim now. LOL
 
I'm from Chicago, I know all about it! I lived 5 blocks from the Sears Tower for the first 16 years of my life, then I moved out here.



Thanks for the info. I was looking into a set of M/T classic II's, but I was worried because they're aluminum.



Thanks!
 
When you are looking at a long term purchase like alumin rims. I look at how easy they are to sand if you get rock chips and pits and so on. So if the rims you are looking at have the rivited looking centers. Think twice. If they pit. It would very hard to sand out. The slotted alumin rims would be easyer to sand out.



This link has a rim that would be easy to sand and repolish for a single tire rig.



http://www.americanracing.com/wheel...81&desc=1-piece chrome plated alloy&section=S
 
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Also like to hear from anyone who already has dually aluminum wheels as to like and dislike. Problems etc.



#1 One problem is the rims are not polished on the insides. So when you are due for a tire rotation you have to dismount/ remount and balance the four outside rims. :( When I do a tire rotation it runs around $60. :( :(



#2 You have to carry a set of standard lug nuts with you. If you have a flat and use a steel rim for a spare. The alumin lug nuts do not work. :(



#3 If you do not carry a spare. (Remember a dually has two spares already on the ground). You still need a set of stock lug nuts to hold the rear steel rim where you pulled an outside dual off.



#4 The alumin rim will improve the ride on the front axle of the truck. (Any unsprung weight you can remove will improve ride).



Sorry about hijacking your thread with CB.
 
Since this is a wheel thread, and James mentioned the 19. 5, what is the deal with tall wheel/low tire profile? I see them everywhere now. What are the advantages of this setup?
 
skinny tire 19.5

Well they look funny to me Phil. I have wondered about the ride. All the conventional tires are about a zillion ply and hard as a rock. You could probably run them flat on a light weight truck. And the wheel (aluminum) manufactures are draggging their feet on getting them out. We have a set on the four door GMC and it rides a bit rough. We used them to get a better ratio to slow the engine.



If you had an option for a really big brake drum setup, there would be lots of room for that. With the skinny tire, when it is worn out, there isn't much to dispose of.



Don't know if there is an answer in there but that is all I know.



1stgen4evr

James
 
Shorter tire life and crappy performance in deep mud/snow.



I don't care what anyone says, from what I have found, wide tires are best for deep snow and mud. Yeah, if it's only a couple of inches deep, then it's good to go narrow so you can get down to solid ground... but when you are in the deep stuff you don't want to sink down.



As for on road driving, narrow tires wear out faster because of less tread area, and in the winter on hard pack or ice, you want a wide tire with tight tread so you have as many edges in the tread as possible to grip the hard pack or ice.



For offroad, mud and deep snow, you want a tall, wide tire with aggresive tread.



For ice, hardpack, and daily driving, you want a wide tire with tight tread and studs in the winter. Lots of siping helps because it gives you even more edges to bite down on ice/harpack/wet pavement.



Don't sipe the outside tread blocks if you plan to offroad, because chunks of rubber will come off. Just sipe the tread blocks in the middle of the tire.



This comes from my personal experience.
 
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OK lets get a few things stright... ... The Alcoa wheels are Forged, they have a much higher weight rating and they have a very much better finish. There are several Non-forged wheels out, American Racing, Eagle a new wheel company called Ion Alloy, and Mickey Thompson. The cast wheels are much cheaper, and like anything now-days you get what you payed for. Cast wheels are more prone to crack when damaged (like hitting a curve, large pot hole,ect) where forged wheels will bend, they also can be repaired. The finish on a Cast wheel isn't as nice and will not hold-up to the elements like a forged wheel.

SALT, yes salt is bad for aluminum wheels, it's bad for anything it touches. It will make wheel maintenance a little more active, but that is just the nature of the beast. Alcoa is the number one producer of aluminum wheels, in the world. They do make 16" dually wheels and singles for our trucks, but granted this is just a very small fraction of the industrial involvement they are in. They manufacture the number one aluminum wheel for tractor trailers, which most everyone has seen shining on those big rigs. But they are the number one maker of aluminum wheels for many, many other areas such as large commercial aircraft and even the space shuttle. They are #1, because they make a very good wheel, not just a pretty one. The over the road rigs drive in all types of weather, and they still maintain a nice look. Most people including myself will use a sealer to help keep the wheels looking good. Aluminum will oxidize when exposed to air, and corrode when exposed to salts. These sealants are available to help keep that shine by keeping out the unwanted.

I got my wheels from Southwest Wheel, they were not only the cheapest, but the most knowledgeable. They new their product, and keep me informed, I would recommend them to anyone considering a Alcoa wheel purchase. Southwest Wheel also had new steel dually wheels, for the inter wheel on the back of a dually. I found this perfect, and it allowed me to have two complete sets of tire/wheels for my truck. The price of the steel wheels were only slightly more then what the local junkyard wanted for used ones, and I don't have to worry about bent, out of round, or leaking wheels.

What ever you decide to do, do not go with any Aluminum wheel that has a clear coat applied to it's finish. Although it sounds like a good ideal, no matter what the salesman tells you it will yellow, and peal. Once that happens you have to get all the clear off before you can re-finish the wheel.

My wheels are "Summer" only wheels, but any Aluminum wheel should be sealed, this not only helps with salt and oxidation, but also brake dust, water spots and dog urine!!. I bought my supply of Zott seal from a hot rod shop called RBS online, but it is offered at other car parts stores. I will be applying the zopp seal to my ALCOA'S in the coming weeks, I'll let you no how it went. This stuff has been around for a while, alot of professional racers, and show car guy's use it to keep there shinny aluminum parts shinny.

Also when ordering your wheels, don't forget or cheap out and not get the caps, lugs, and covers. They are very nice looking and set the wheels off and complete the installation. When you order you can also take advantage of getting the later model wheels which have about 3/8" more offset, this will help if running over sized tires.
 
Mickey Thompsons are made by Alcoa, and are forged.



And as for the caps... I have never seen a company that offers caps for our trucks... especially for the front axle.
 
CB

I've got some eagle alloy 589's and a set of m/t that look like the 589's. Both have center caps front and rear. Front is open to allow access to the lockouts. I have had stainless center caps and they don't rust. The chrome ones require replacement yearly because of rust. I don't do the stainless lug nuts, the last set split at the corners of the nut in less than a year. If I have to replace the nuts every year, I will buy cheap ones.



I've had the 589's for 4-5years. They look pretty bad right now, but I know with some elbow grease they will polish right up. They are going on my 75 when I go pulling this summer. The m/t's are almost new, need nothing but a good cleaing right now. I have lived on the border of IA and IL the last three years. Yes the salts bad, but a little polishing and they are good. Steel requires rust removal ie blasting, then primer and paint. That sucks. NOTHING is maintence free in the RUST BELT!



my $. 02



Michael
 
One piece at a time

I just bought one wheel off ebay. Now if it is any good, maybe I can get a set like Johnny Cash. One at the time. Someone out bid on a pair. I always use the advise of my salvage buddy. If you get all the bids, you are bidding too much.



Gona play with that for a while and make up my mind. Got some off the wall ideas that came to me about twenty years ago re aluminum HUBS and WHEEL combos.



1stgen4evr

James
 
Originally posted by CB_Parker



I don't care what anyone says, from what I have found, wide tires are best for deep snow and mud.





Bah... I hope that even though you "don't care what anyone says" you'll at least read this and consider it:



Fat tires are only good if you have more than about 3 feet of mud or snow. In anything less than that, a wide tire only causes you to have to push more mud/snow out of the way of the rolling tire. And as for ice or hardpack, narrow tires again prove superior... more psi on the contact patch. Take a look at a rally car sometime... when running on snow they have like 4" wide tires! If fat tires worked better, you can bet they'd run 'em.



I learned about fat vs skinny tires from my dad on the farm in Wisconsin... he has a set of old-school Firestone snow tires on his farm truck... 17" wheels (from some mid-60's milk truck) and the tires measure 36" tall by 7" wide. I was a punkass 16 yr old who thought he knew everything, and had a 72 Blazer with a set of 38" Ground Hawgs on it (probably 15" wide)... . thought it was the toughest go-anywhere rig in the world... until one day we got about 30" of snow. I can still see my dad chuckling to himself as he literally drove circles around me (in deeper snow than where I was stuck), letting me shovel just a little bit longer before he agreed to pull me out.



Since that "learning experience" I have always preferred narrow tires, and they have always proved superior under most all conditions. I have mud drag trophies from running "little pizza cutters" (38" Michelin military radials) on my V8-powered Toyota against the big boys running fat 44's.



Places where I will never argue that wide tires rule: sand of any depth, snow or mud more than about 3 feet deep, and rockcrawling on slickrock.



John



PS - it's amazing how much smarter my dad got as I got older :D
 
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Well, all to his own... but I've run both tires, and I prefer wider tires.



Of course, I was not talking about huge vs. skinny, I was talking 235/85 vs 315/75.



And I also stated that tall wide tires work best. Tall tires keep you up so your axles don't drag, and the wide tires give you the tread to throw a lot of snow to keep you moving.



Trust me dude, they don't call me the "truck killer" in Salmon for nothing. I've taken 5 different trucks places they should have never been. And on top of that, I've only had to walk out twice, and not because I got stuck, but because the truck died. And no, it wasn't with this truck, I get old beaters and turn them into "huntin' rigs". Last one cost me like $400.



I'm not saying you're wrong, but I am saying that I am sticking to my guns.



Maybe I'll change my mind some day, but from all the experiences I've had every weekend for the past 4 years with all kinds of different rigs with all kinds of different tires (235/85-38-12. 50) that is the opinion I have come upon.



Again, I'm not saying your wrong!
 
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