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American Tank Mfg. 65 Gal In-Bed Tank

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Hello all,

Has anyone tried out American Tank's in-bed aux tanks?

Compared to the Transferflow, they have less electronics to go wrong, and offer 15 more gallons for a shortbed Dodge (65gals). Less moolah too.

<A HREF="http://www.auxtank.com" www.auxtank.com</A>

Was just curious if anyone had first hand experience on quality & how their tank switch works?

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2k, 30k miles, QC, SB, 4x, 6sp, 3. 54, 285/75r16 bfg/at, stock air cleaner (reliable), silencer ring "in" (runs better), Sunnybrook 28' fiver, 16,780 lbs. 18mpg (unloaded), 12-14 mpg (loaded). VA, DD1's, PS Boost module & elbow, BD brake... also, Nitrous Oxide piped direct into the block (stealth - to keep the warranty), 10 gallon per minute fuel pump, ECM right out of Don Garlit's Top Fueler (he gave it to me) (for letting him ride in my truck), Super Modified DD1 Injectors ("Hand Honed" with a 1/4" reamer & my 12v Makita). :) More BOMBING to come. .
 
Dave, Wow 90 gallons. I always said you can't have too much fuel... . unless your on fire. #ad


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Ron

'96 4x2 2500 Garnet/Driftwood Auto,3. 54,K&N,Cobra, 93 TT Terry 29L,'84 VW Rabbit diesel,
 
I have an American 90gal. combo fuel tank & tool box. I have had it about a month or so and so far really like it. The only thing I'm not really crazy about is when running down the road and you switch tanks, the fuel gauge doesn't change to the other tank. This is due to the fuel gauge reading being routed through the computer. If you stop and turn off the ignition, when you turn it back on it recognizes whatever tank your switched to. It's not really a big deal, since I always know how much fuel is in the tank I switched to. I have a brother-in-law who has a Transferflow in his gasser truck and he has had problems with the electronics from the beginning. They have always been very good to fix it, but he ran out of fuel once due to these problems. The quality of the American is really good, good smooth welds, etc. Hope I've answered some of your questions. If I can help any more, let me know.
Dave

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2001 2500 HO 6spd QC LB 4x4 SLTPLUS All options except Snow Plow and Clearance Lights - Rhino Liner,Straight Exhaust, 90 Gal. American Toolbox/Tank Combo
'95 Harley Low Rider, Crane cam, S&S Super E
 
SLVRBLT,

You are right about the gauge not changing over to the other tank until switching off the ignition. I have had the electric valve NOT change when you flip the switch going down the road. The only you know this happens is to watch the gauge and if it keeps going down, then the electric valve has not switched. If you don't watch it, you will run out of fuel and the other tank is still full--been there-done that and it ain't fun.

The Pollack fuel selector doesn't always switch over so keep a very close watch when switching tanks going down the road.

Bill
 
Bill-
Just read your post concerning the aux. tank valve not always switching. Now, you've got me worried. I haven't had the tank long enough to have any experience with switching tanks except once or twice and it has worked OK so far. I did notice that when you switch tanks the fuel gauge doesn't continue to drop. Is that the key to knowing that the fuel valve worked? Since you say you have run out of fuel, do you recommend when you switch tanks to pull over and cycle the ignition to make sure the tank has switched? Thanks for the help.
Dave
 
SLVRBLT,

What I usually did was switch tanks at a stop light or a rest stop when close to empty and switched off the ignition and cranked back up to see if the motorized valve switched. It usually did BUT sometimes it won't and you have to flip the switch on the dash several times for the motor to operate.

If you switch tanks and the motorized valve doesn't switch over your fuel gauge should continue dropping because you are still running on the original tank. The motorized valve switches the tank sending unit signal internally when the valve switches tanks.

I don't mean to spook you--just be aware that sometimes it doesn't switch over. Other than that little quirk, the system works great.

Bill
 
I'm probably still going this route due to the extra 15 gals of fuel, and if the switch gives a problem, I'll come up w/ something more simple & reliable like a manual transfer to the main tank via a pump. Could use a push button to activate a Dayton timer-based relay set for about 2 minutes. If you want to transfer some fuel just hit the button.

I'm really after the capacity (shortbed truck), not the electronics.

Again, Great info guys thanks.

[This message has been edited by Shortshift (edited 03-16-2001). ]
 
Well, after having an explanation of the install. First I found this is not a complete kit as they advertise. You need to go buy a tube cutter or 2 as the first one may not be able to make all the cuts necessary before its thrashed by the stainless steel. .

Also, when I called them last week on pricing & availablilty, the lady said they always have them in stock. well, they dont. the wait is about a month to have one made. Well that sorta ended that sale.

That Dang transferflow tank is just way over priced IMO, and the 50 gal looks like it is wasting alot of vertical space.

Anyone have any other ideas for an in-bed tank around 60 or more gallons?


[This message has been edited by Shortshift (edited 03-16-2001). ]
 
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