Amsoilman - thank you for your explanation and I agree. I have a lot of oil related experience myself. Just like you said some fluids are designed to be compressed(pressurized) and others are not. If the constant load that I am placing on my gears is too much for the fluid to maintain its film between the gears, then metal wear can increase.
What additves does amsoil use - in what ppm to help keep the metal from touching? I would bet it is "proprietary information". Compare normal oils to synthetics, how much difference is there in the mfg of each?
If I had the money and time I would seek the truth by going to one of the test labs with the oils of my choice and watch the test myself. The cars running without oil on TV don't cut it. Boiling oil into sludge is a great test if the temps being observed are the operating temps of the oil. But remember, each fluid is made for a reason and is made based on somebody's opinion of "what is best" and then the almighty dollar is thrown into that opinion.
For example, we use "heat transfer fluids" here at my plant. These fluids usually resemble 30 weight oil. We can heat these fluids to 550F plus - day 24/7. The machines that circulate these fluids through our molds have gear pumps in them. These fluids must lubricate pump, hold lots of heat (thus the name of the fluid) and NOT flash fire. I would never put these in my rear end, but they sure do boil good - and for a long time.
You see, the different properties of fluids are easy to argue. The public loves visual test that make something look good.
My rear end "grind" was there with Amsoil and almost gone with the CRC brand oil. Both were "75-90". Something is not compatible between my rear end and the Amsoil, under a heavy load.
At the next change, I may try 140 just to see how it feels. It will depend on the sludge I see on the magnets at the next drain.
If you know of a third party book or web site that can educate me more, please let me know.
Have you told anyone at Amsoil of my frustrations? If so, what did they say? I challenge them to respond at to why my rear end would perform this way - and why my silicon levels elevated after using their air filter and have not elevated with a paper filter?