amsoilman
Staff Alumni
My last analysis showed <0. 1 PERCENT Fuel, and . 03 PPM SOOT with 87,000 miles on the oil! I do use the Amsoil By-pass system with the EaBP-100 Filter element along woth the EaO-80 "Full-Flow Element.
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Amsoil BMK-25 By-Pass Filter Mount
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My last analysis showed <0. 1 PERCENT Fuel, and . 03 PPM SOOT with 87,000 miles on the oil! I do use the Amsoil By-pass system with the EaBP-100 Filter element along woth the EaO-80 "Full-Flow Element.
How often do you drive short trips though? see thats where i am having a problem with the put the oil in and leave it part. in the winter my truck does not even get to full operating temp when i go to work... .
I also have some HP mods and plan to add a lot more. I would think with twin turbos and injectors like i am about to put on will cause the soot and fuel number to go up a lot.
amsoilman
Staff Alumni
How often do you drive short trips though? see thats where i am having a problem with the put the oil in and leave it part. in the winter my truck does not even get to full operating temp when i go to work... .
I also have some HP mods and plan to add a lot more. I would think with twin turbos and injectors like i am about to put on will cause the soot and fuel number to go up a lot.
I average around 13K per year, and analyze the oil every 10K.
I mounted my BMK-25 on the frame under the passenger side because I was concerned about heat from the exhaust with an under the hood mount. My BMK-25 is an older unit from 2001. I took it off my 2001 before I sold it and then fabricated my own mount for the frame on my '07. My biggest issue on the '07 was where to run the hoses, they are each 5'6" +/- long, but I got it worked out and I used the best hoses I could buy.
I have had the set-up on for about 200 miles. I did have a (so far) one-time instance of where I got the low oil pressure chime after a start-up and the engine had been running for about 30 seconds with normal pressure; I turned off the engine and waited 15 seconds and restarted it and I got immediate oil pressure. I believe this was due to having some air in the hoses because it happened soon after I installed the system. This thing has not happened since, and I hope it never does again!
So far all seems to work OK, but I will say this... . when changing the filters, it takes time for the oil to drain and it can be messy. Much more so than with the under hood mounting on my 2001.
After running this set-up for 200 miles, I am also thinking about adding a protective shield in front of the oil filters to keep any road debris from the front tire from hitting them. I have also switched from the EaBP-100 to the EaBP-90. The 90 is a bit shorter than the 100 and is less exposed to road debris. Since it is a bit smaller filter, I expect to get less life from it, but this '07 with the EGR turns the oil black LOTS sooner than my 2001 did, so I don't think it will matter which filter I use.
I have had the set-up on for about 200 miles. I did have a (so far) one-time instance of where I got the low oil pressure chime after a start-up and the engine had been running for about 30 seconds with normal pressure; I turned off the engine and waited 15 seconds and restarted it and I got immediate oil pressure. I believe this was due to having some air in the hoses because it happened soon after I installed the system. This thing has not happened since, and I hope it never does again!
So far all seems to work OK, but I will say this... . when changing the filters, it takes time for the oil to drain and it can be messy. Much more so than with the under hood mounting on my 2001.
After running this set-up for 200 miles, I am also thinking about adding a protective shield in front of the oil filters to keep any road debris from the front tire from hitting them. I have also switched from the EaBP-100 to the EaBP-90. The 90 is a bit shorter than the 100 and is less exposed to road debris. Since it is a bit smaller filter, I expect to get less life from it, but this '07 with the EGR turns the oil black LOTS sooner than my 2001 did, so I don't think it will matter which filter I use.
AH64ID
TDR MEMBER
Jim Ross,
The kit you have from 2001 is a BMK-15 and is not supposed to be used on the 3rd gen's for that low oil pressure reason you experienced. The reason it took 30 seconds is becuase the ECM has to see zero oil pressure for 30 seconds before it thinks its an issue. Your gauge on the dash is fake, the ECM doesn't actually know what the oil pressure is. There is a 6 psi switch on the block, so the ECM only knows if there is pressure or not, and only lets you know if there is no pressure after 30 seconds of no pressure. So if you only go 29 seconds without pressure then you will never know as the gauge reads normal (well as normal as it can be) but there is no pressure.
The newer BMK-25 is supposed to fix the issue on 3rd gens, but some still get the low oil pressure readings.
If you want to keep your BMK-15 and not worry about oil pressure I would install a real oil pressure gauge to tell you the story. Don't put the sender in the oil filter head thou, as thats pre-filter and wont tell you the real story. Put the sender on the drivers side of the block for best results.
#ad
Yeah not a lot you can do on the 04. 5+ trucks for black oil. I have a EaBP-110 and my oil is black as the night as soon as I change it. And the 5. 9's don't even have a full EGR, its amazing what they can do with timing, pistons, and a cam.
The kit you have from 2001 is a BMK-15 and is not supposed to be used on the 3rd gen's for that low oil pressure reason you experienced. The reason it took 30 seconds is becuase the ECM has to see zero oil pressure for 30 seconds before it thinks its an issue. Your gauge on the dash is fake, the ECM doesn't actually know what the oil pressure is. There is a 6 psi switch on the block, so the ECM only knows if there is pressure or not, and only lets you know if there is no pressure after 30 seconds of no pressure. So if you only go 29 seconds without pressure then you will never know as the gauge reads normal (well as normal as it can be) but there is no pressure.
The newer BMK-25 is supposed to fix the issue on 3rd gens, but some still get the low oil pressure readings.
If you want to keep your BMK-15 and not worry about oil pressure I would install a real oil pressure gauge to tell you the story. Don't put the sender in the oil filter head thou, as thats pre-filter and wont tell you the real story. Put the sender on the drivers side of the block for best results.
#adYeah not a lot you can do on the 04. 5+ trucks for black oil. I have a EaBP-110 and my oil is black as the night as soon as I change it. And the 5. 9's don't even have a full EGR, its amazing what they can do with timing, pistons, and a cam.
Thanks for the education!
On the BMK-21, how is the oil returned to the engine? I know there is a tap for the oil coming out of the engine on the factory oil filter boss, but where does the clean oil from the by-pass filter go back into the engine? Is there a fitting/tap for that also? Hopefully you don't have to make a hole in the valve cover or oil pan like on the older gas engines.
On the BMK-21, how is the oil returned to the engine? I know there is a tap for the oil coming out of the engine on the factory oil filter boss, but where does the clean oil from the by-pass filter go back into the engine? Is there a fitting/tap for that also? Hopefully you don't have to make a hole in the valve cover or oil pan like on the older gas engines.
amsoilman
Staff Alumni
I will chime in here and give you your answer. The "Billet aluminum" cap is available from Amsoil Inc. It has a "Swivel" fitting so the hose does not turn with the cap when removed. Stock# for cap is BK-1301.
OK. I just found that out from Ams/Oil Technical Services. I'm getting a real education today!
They also told me that with the BMK-15 set up the way that I have it, there is no possible way that my engine will have any dry start-ups. They did say that if there happens to be a drain-back situation and a small amount of air gets to the oil sending unit, then it can cause the chimes to go off, but even when that happens there is still oil being pumped and the engine is not starting up in a dry situation or running with no pressure. With the calls they are getting on this (about 5/month), that is why they are recommending the BMK-21 and thinking of discontinuing the BMK-25.
Again, the tech guy emphatically told me, "there is no way your engine is starting up dry, the only way that can happen is if the oil pump itself goes bad".
He also told me that they had put pressure gages on both hoses of the BMK-25 and when the chimes went off, the gages still showed oil pressure.
Any how..... that is what I was just told on the phone a few minutes ago.
They also told me that with the BMK-15 set up the way that I have it, there is no possible way that my engine will have any dry start-ups. They did say that if there happens to be a drain-back situation and a small amount of air gets to the oil sending unit, then it can cause the chimes to go off, but even when that happens there is still oil being pumped and the engine is not starting up in a dry situation or running with no pressure. With the calls they are getting on this (about 5/month), that is why they are recommending the BMK-21 and thinking of discontinuing the BMK-25.
Again, the tech guy emphatically told me, "there is no way your engine is starting up dry, the only way that can happen is if the oil pump itself goes bad".
He also told me that they had put pressure gages on both hoses of the BMK-25 and when the chimes went off, the gages still showed oil pressure.
Any how..... that is what I was just told on the phone a few minutes ago.
AH64ID
TDR MEMBER
I'll start my statement with the fact that I have an Amsoil dealer account, and use their products exclusivity in my rigs. I think thats more of a CYA statement. They may be correct, but I'd rather not ever see a low oil psi light. I am more concerned if the block has pressure, not the hoses. The hoses will be the first place to get pressure after the pump, which is why pressure should be verified in the block downstream. The OE psi switch is 6 psi, at cold idle the oil pressure is 5x that or more, even air compresses easily enough that 10 psi of oil would compress air to 6 psi.
The OEM oil psi sender sits on the side of the block, not in the top. So how big is that air bubble? For 30 seconds!
If you want to know for sure add an oil psi gauge in that port I showed you.
The OEM oil psi sender sits on the side of the block, not in the top. So how big is that air bubble? For 30 seconds!
If you want to know for sure add an oil psi gauge in that port I showed you.
I'm going to try to locate that port that you pictured and put a gage on it..... is it toward the front or back of the block?
Like you, I would rather not ever see that low pressure or hear those chimes. But, I guess what I am missing here is: 'how can there be pressure at the filter hoses and no pressure in the block'? It just seems to me that if the oil pump is pumping pressure to (and thru) the filters that there will be pressure in the engine. Wrong?
And, perhaps because I had to replace several oem oil sending units in my '01, I don't really trust the current one to be accurate. A real gage on the block will tell the true story.
Like you, I am a dealer (Lifetime since about 1980) and use Ams/Oil in all my rigs.
Like you, I would rather not ever see that low pressure or hear those chimes. But, I guess what I am missing here is: 'how can there be pressure at the filter hoses and no pressure in the block'? It just seems to me that if the oil pump is pumping pressure to (and thru) the filters that there will be pressure in the engine. Wrong?
And, perhaps because I had to replace several oem oil sending units in my '01, I don't really trust the current one to be accurate. A real gage on the block will tell the true story.
Like you, I am a dealer (Lifetime since about 1980) and use Ams/Oil in all my rigs.
AH64ID
TDR MEMBER
I agree, but how can there be pressure in the block and not trip a 6psi switch? If the issue was a switch issue it would be more common on stock setups, not just when the dual setup is installed.
I think thats right, its directly above the ECM. Its not pipe, it's metric and will take a metric (w/ o-ring) adapter to get 1/8" pipe.
My gauge is mounted permanently in the cab. I like to know what my oil pressure is doing. Far right gauge is oil.
#adVery nice set-up!
I already have 3 A-pillar gages, so am not sure right now how I will do the oil pressure gage.
Thanks for all your help here, I do appreciate it.
Now, this plug with the metric threads... ... . can I find this metric to pipe adapter at Home Depot or will I need to look at some specialty shop?
I already have 3 A-pillar gages, so am not sure right now how I will do the oil pressure gage.
Thanks for all your help here, I do appreciate it.
Now, this plug with the metric threads... ... . can I find this metric to pipe adapter at Home Depot or will I need to look at some specialty shop?
Yeah, it will need to come from a place more geared towards plumbing or HVAC.
I have decided to replace my BMK-15 with a BMK-22 and plumb it up like the BMK-21 using the billet oil cap. That way, I will have 2 by-pass filters mounted under the cab on the frame plus an EaO80 in the factory location. I called AmsOil tech again this morning and they said I would not have any "issues" with the double by-pass set up in this manner. They again empathized that the BMK-15 is not a problem, even told me they had Tee'd into the factory oil pressure sending unit with a mechanical gage and that when the low oil pressure chimes went off, the mechanical gage was showing normal oil pressure..... go figure!
I just don't want to hear the chimes and be 2nd guessing anything, hence the BMK-22 with the EaO80.
One reason (a biggie for me) that I am going with the BMK-22 is that it has the same mounting holes (4) as my current unit and I won't have to fabricate an entire new frame mount like I would if I went with the BMK-21(3 holes).
Dang, winter has come to southern ID, 4" of white junk and low 30's today; lower than 10 predicted in a day or two.
I have decided to replace my BMK-15 with a BMK-22 and plumb it up like the BMK-21 using the billet oil cap. That way, I will have 2 by-pass filters mounted under the cab on the frame plus an EaO80 in the factory location. I called AmsOil tech again this morning and they said I would not have any "issues" with the double by-pass set up in this manner. They again empathized that the BMK-15 is not a problem, even told me they had Tee'd into the factory oil pressure sending unit with a mechanical gage and that when the low oil pressure chimes went off, the mechanical gage was showing normal oil pressure..... go figure!
I just don't want to hear the chimes and be 2nd guessing anything, hence the BMK-22 with the EaO80.
One reason (a biggie for me) that I am going with the BMK-22 is that it has the same mounting holes (4) as my current unit and I won't have to fabricate an entire new frame mount like I would if I went with the BMK-21(3 holes).
Dang, winter has come to southern ID, 4" of white junk and low 30's today; lower than 10 predicted in a day or two.
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