Amsoil Leakies

[Sled Puller]

That is true, Carson City Dodge in Nevada, for example, has Amsoil, K&N filters and other BOMB goodies for sale.

Right out in the open.

 

[K_Arts]

Originally posted by Sled Puller

Kevin,

Thank you very much for not blaming Amsoil OR Premium Blue for that matter!



Now, GO GET 'EM!

No problem.



The main factor is this... . when there is a TSB posted showing it is a problem with our trucks... how can you blame any type of oil? You really can't. Every oil is going to act different in different environments.



Kev

 

[PRout]

Originally posted by K_Arts

They said that because Cummins doesn't recommend a full synthetic oil in their motor that they will not put any type of synthetic oil in my truck.

Huh?? Pls someone say this isnt so... Is this true?? (here we go again). :-{}

 

[DocStressor]

From the Cummins web page FAQs:



Is it OK to use synthetic oil?



Cummins recommends that you not use synthetic motor oil during the break-in period of 5000-20,000 miles, based on the type of driving, to allow proper seating of the piston rings. Beyond that mileage it is OK to use synthetic oil.

 

[K_Arts]

Originally posted by Shortshift





Huh?? Pls someone say this isnt so... Is this true?? (here we go again). :-{}

Yepp... another clueless dealer that got awarded the 5 Star Screw your customers award that don't have a clue about anything.



Kev

 

[K_Arts]

Ok guys... The wife called a couple more dodge dealers... and you may want to prepare yourself for the solution to the oil pan TSB.



The dealers told us 2 things. They will fix the leak under warranty. Though... one dealer says that if they fix the gasket, I will have to pay for an oil change at the going rate of $70. Or The other dealers said that they will drain the oil, fix the leak, then put that old oil back into the truck, topping off what ever else is needed.



Isn't that a bunch of BS!!!!!!



I guess I get to fix both trucks once it warms up..... boy am I frustrated and PO'd at these dealers. Where the heck are you DC??? And how the heck are you rating these dealers as 5 star dealers??



Apparently the only prerequisite to becoming a 5 star dealer is that have a warm pot coffee available to the DC reps when they come on to visit. .



Kev

 

[Pit Bull]

I think I am going to wait to have mine fixed, since it does not even drip on the ground. I'm going to keep an eye on it now that I cleaned everything up down there (could be the blowby bottle amking the mess). I figure if it is not doing anymore than weeping a small amount of oil and I have 3 more years and 60K miles of warranty left, why rush into anything? I reviewed the procedure for replacing the oil pan gasket, WOW, they have to jack up the engine and the transmission and disconnect a bunch of stuff. Alot of opportunity to screw something up for a little oil weep. Even if I see some more oil, I think I will have them do the dye routine to see if it is the oil pan gasket or the over flow bottle, before they start jacking up my engine

 

[Challenger-II]

Do any of you know how much they have to rip your truck apart to change a pan gasket?



My '99 had the same leak and was told that the trans had to come out to get the pan out!! NO WAY JOSE... ... I retorqued the pan bolts and goodbye leak! Wash off all the oil and retighten the bolts. Try this first before you let them rape your truck.

 

[FL70CAT]

Are you sure your "modified" breather isn't pinched anywhere??

 

[K_Arts]

First of... I need to apologize to you Challenger-II... I forgot to get you the pics of the boost elbow. I'll get them and e-mail them to you.



Second... I don't believe you have to pull the trans out. Mine looks easy to pull out. You just need to put an exension or 2 on the ratchet to get to the bolts by the TC. Then the pan pretty much pulls down and out.



Kev

Originally posted by Challenger-II

Do any of you know how much they have to rip your truck apart to change a pan gasket?



My '99 had the same leak and was told that the trans had to come out to get the pan out!! NO WAY JOSE... ... I retorqued the pan bolts and goodbye leak! Wash off all the oil and retighten the bolts. Try this first before you let them rape your truck.

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by K_Arts

First of... I need to apologize to you Challenger-II... I forgot to get you the pics of the boost elbow. I'll get them and e-mail them to you.



Second... I don't believe you have to pull the trans out. Mine looks easy to pull out. You just need to put an exension or 2 on the ratchet to get to the bolts by the TC. Then the pan pretty much pulls down and out.



Kev

Kev

I hate to tell you this but I looked at a service manual the other day and they have to Jackup the engine and transmission and disconnect several lines to remove the pan and replace the pan gasket. I would have them tighten everything first and check with a diye before you put your truck through this experence.

 

[Mad Max]

What Fun I've had with this one...



I run a semi-synth (76's Royal Triton QLT), took my rig in for this problem as well as DEE's tail shaft leaking. They replaced the oilpan gasket, tailshaft housing seal AND DENTED MY PAN.



So, I took it back and said "Service Parts" your dented pan. They kept my rig for an ENTIRE WEEK, put a new pan, yet another pan gasket, and 4,000 miles later I STILL SEE THE SAME SYMPTOM, oil on the oil pan bolt heads at the back of the pan and dampness from weeping on say the last four or five bolts on each side of the pan.



Given my bad experience(s), I'm reluctant to let them attempt a repair again if they're just going to do the same crap again, and get my another 4,000 miles?



How's about an improved oilpan gasket material, MAYBE A PAN RAIL REINFORCEMENT KIT???



Yeah, A STUPID BEAD OF RTV is gonna solve everything?



Was that a T. S. B. or T. otal B. S. ?



MADDDDDDD MAX

 

[Randy J]

I have to tell you guys, you're scaring me. Especially since it's not leaking bad at all after I tightened some bolts. But, I figure it won't get better, only worse, and at least for now, I have the dealer willing to pay some of the cost. See my post Oil Leaks - Dealer Praise. Given my mileage, I don't think I can afford not to do it now

 

[Mad Max]

Hey Randy J...



How R things in my 'ol Home Town?



Don't let my bad experience taint your relationship w/ your dealership. The fact that they're willing to come off of book time for the job and charge you a reduced amount says something of them. (I was told it books eight hours)



The way the procedure was described to me, drop trans, unbolt motor, slide engine at downward angle w/hoist/sling through the transmission tunnel and work on motor there. There's not enough clearance between pan and K Member to just drop the pan while the motor is in place and the rear of the valve cover does not have enough clearance at the firewall so that the motor could be unbolted and jacked up in place. Lots of fun w/ heavy parts.



At the end of the day, its your rig and your choice, the job can be done right, even the first time, by a good mechanic. I'm just not happy that after going through my ordeal, the "fix" didn't fix anything, BUT I THINK MOST DEALERSHIP WARRANT THEIR REPAIR FOR A PERIOD OF TIME, WHICH COULD BE BENEFICIAL IN YOUR CASE SINCE YOU'RE OUT OF WARRANTY AND ON YOUR DIME. Ask your servicing dealer what his policy is, see if they'll give you that in writing in conjunction w/ their reduced quote?



Good Luck.



MaX

 

[Shooter]

Randy:

If it's out of warranty

Why even mess with a DC shop when you could take it to your Cummins distibuter and have it done right the first time. !!!!!!! Oo. And probably cheaper!!

 

[Randy J]

That's something I hadn't thought of, but as I said the Dodge dealer is willing to cover half the costs. Given Cummins labor rate, I doubt it would be any cheaper there (it usually seems to be parts markup that is considerably cheaper through Cummins, and the part portion of this repair is small), and I doubt they would kick in 1/2 the costs. Might be worth checking out though, if I wasn't going to be out of town next week. I really can't afford to wait any longer due to my mileage (114,000).

 

[FL70CAT]

If it was a loosely tightened gasket and you tightened it, which made the leak much slower..... it is possible the leak will go away over some time.

All oils have additives in them to make the gaskets swell and seal. Switching oils can cause additive packages to be in dissagreement for a while until the gasket becomes accustomed to the new additives. Rarely the bad affect of oil leaks is permanent in which the gasket actually needs changed out.





Good luck.









P. S. >>> Are there definetely no pinch points on the "modified" breather hose???????????????????

 

[Pit Bull]

weird, I thought my oil pan was leaking, so I tighten up all of the oil pan bolts and cleaned up the engine. Changed the oil and now 2000 miles later and no oil leak or oil usage. Glad I don't have to have the dealer change the gasket