Amsoil Users

[tragicwagon]

those of you that are using amsoil,Im thinking of switching to amsoil but have a few questions.



1 do I realy need to do an engine flush before I switch,my truck has a little over 40k



2 which grade should I use series 3000 5w-30 or 15-40 hdd marine & diesel,dosent get real cold here in North East TN.



3 should I use the series 2000 75-90 in the 5sp or stay with the castrol syntork,I heard something about the 5sp shouldnt have gl5 rating is that true.



I will use the 75-140 in the rear because I do alot of towing 26,000 GCVW.



all oppions & facts welcome,thanks.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Twagon, I have been running Amsoil for 40k now and like it:



1) No, I wouldn't. I doubt your diesel is that dirty inside because the detergents in oil work pretty well to keep things clean. Plus, putting flush in and running your engine probably is a lot worse for it than not using it. I didn't use it.



2) I'd go with 15W40 for sure. Cheaper and does the job just as well. I have run both and oil analysis numbers tell me they both work about equally well. Others though have seen somewhat better numbers with the 5W30 though. If you are hauling heavy in hot weather I'd definitely lean toward the 15W40.



3) I have a 6-speed, someone else can answer this one



140/75 in the rear sounds like a good plan if you are towing heavy. There is another alternative though, LE (lubrication engineers) has some pretty impressive gear lube you may want to check out. Mag Hytek has info on that, they were doing oil samples on axle oil to see how well it performed.



Vaughn

 

[cullyguy]

I don't think a flush is needed if you have been changing on a regular schedule. I use the Amsoil 5w-30 series 3000 from November - March because it gets COLD -30 & below!, where I travel, sometimes with no available plug in. I run the 15W-40 the rest of the year. If it does not get below say 10 for very often, The 15W-40 will do fine even colder is OK, just takes longer to warm up. I use the 75-140 even though I don't tow a bunch, just extra protection & cush from my power. The reason you are not supposed to run a GL-5 in your manual trans is because there is stuff in GL-5 tha will EAT (I speak form past, expensive experiance) The Bronze that is used in the syncro's, A GL-4 lubricant is what does the trick of the weight specified for your trans. You can contact redline oils for some full synthetic choices & LE has some also I do believe.

 

[Sled Puller]

I suggest flushing, but I have lots of guys that don't. Change the oil sooner than you would have, helps get that old stuff out of there.



The Series 2000 75w-90 is completely safe in the NV4500. And from what I have seen, does a better job protecting that transmission in the real world. And, it is a true synthetic.



Gene

 

[HC]

I wouldn't do the flush - but I would change earlier on the next round as Sled Puller suggested. JMO



I'm using the 5W-30, with a bypass filter. If I didn't have the bypass filter, I think I would switch to the 15W-40 and change the oil more often. I did used to go up to ~15k (21k once) with intermediate filter changes, but if I had it to do over I wouldn't extend beyond 7. 5 to 10k without a bypass filter. Again, JMO, I know many go >10k without the bypass.

 

[Riflesmith]

I just don't feel comfortable with engine flushes. Metal to metal contact seems certain at the reduced viscosity caused by adding any type of flush to engine oil.



When I changed over to synthetic, I ran 6000 miles on it, then changed oil and full flow filter, and added the bypass filter. As stated in my signature, I am running the Series 3000 5W-30. I would not hesitate to use the 15W-40 if that is your preference.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[PLaFrombois]

If you don't use the engine flush, be prepared to change your full-flow filter sooner than expected. The cleaning additives in both the 5w-30 and 15w-40 will help disolve any sludge build-up from the use of petroleum oils. You might look at purchasing a Dual remote system with the By-Pass filter. Either oil would work for you, but I'd suggest the 15w-40 for your stated purpose.

The 2000 75w-90 would be a good choice for both the transmission and differential. Then you wouldn't have to have so many different lubricant weights laying around in the garage. I only recommend the use of 75w-140 for slow speed-heavy duty applications (farm equipment, cement trucks). Even if you didn't want to go with the Series 2000, the regular gear lube would work just as well for you.

Paul

 

[tragicwagon]

[

B]THANKS FOR THE REPLYS GUYS





any more out there,Ill take all I can get. Oo.

 

[amsoilman]

TWagon,

As someone said, if you do not use the engine flush be prepared to change the oil the first time sooner. The synthetic will clean much better than the petroleum you have been useing. Either of the two Diesel oils you mentioned would be OK. I used the 15W-40 for the first 105,000 miles on my own truck, then installed the 5W-30, and have run the past 34,000 with this oil. I use the single remote by-pass oil filter, and do oil analysis every 10,000 miles. This is the only time the oil was changed after installing the synthetic. You can see what my valve covers look like by going to this site. www.1gr8oil.com/dodgevalves.html



On the gear lube issue, the series 2000 75W-90 would be a good choice in your transmission as well as the differentials. This fluid does carry the MT-1 rateing, which addresses the "yellow" metals in these trannys.

I have some 18 wheeler customers that are useing this gear lube, and all of them claim a reduction in operating temeratures.



Best regards in your choices.





Wayne

amsoilman