AmsoilMan ... a question please

[FATCAT]

Is the Amsoil Series 3000 Heavy Duty Syn. Diesel oil fine for my VW diesel? I am thinking of switching over to it from the Valvaline that they use at the dealership (25,000 miles on the 9 month old car so far).

 

[lschultz]

I have been running the 5W30 in my VW since I think the first oil change. 58000+ on it now and no problems. I know some that are using the 15W40 in there TDI's but I will stick with the 5W30 in mine. Don't mean to cut in Amsoilman but I just looked at the TDR before I go home. I think the dealers are using Castrol in the TDI at least they were.

 

[LightmanE300]

The 15w40 has much better oil analysis results in the TDI. The 5w30 is too thin. I've seen this debate for years on the TDI club, and let me tell ya, use the 15w40. The series 3k is also GROSSLY overpriced.

 

[amsoilman]

Fatcat,

Amsoil does recommend the series 3000 5W-30 in the TDI VW's, and I have indeed installed it in four of them. The owners seem to like it also, as I have never had a complaint from any of them. They (amsoil) recommends a 12,000 mile drain interval using this oil also. Of course if one had the by-pass installed, you could get many more miles before changing.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Riflesmith]

Gee, if Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 is too thin, how do you explain 28ppm iron after 15,000 miles? I have used the Amsoil 15W-40 and it was not able to match the performance of the 5W-30. I have witnessed the ongoing debate on the TDI forums as well. I remain very unconvinced of the superiority of the heavier weight oils.



I use the 5w-30 HDD in my TDI and will continue to do so until the car gives up the ghost. It is not overpriced. It has an additive package no other oil matches. You get what you pay for.

 

[LightmanE300]

Over 10k miles i've had 18ppm FE with delvac 1 in my TDI, which is considerably cheaper than series 3000. Also if you saw the ferrography tests of the TDI's using series 3k, you would be appalled. Granted these are only a few, they were nasty. There is no reason to use it considering the heavy price, and no real benefit over the 15w40 or D1... . Also if you live in a very hot climate, 30w is just not thick enough...

 

[Rman]

I run it in mine (the 5-30) I've had it in there for about 3k. No analysis yet i've only owned the car a couple months now. Oh yeah, don't mess with the transmission fluid if you have an auto, i learned the hard way.

 

[Rman]

Hey Lightman, i have an 01 new beetle (it's my wifes). It keeps blowing the 15 amp fuse for the power outlets. She has a cell phone charger for the car and just started using it a few weeks ago.



When she first used it, the outlet didn't work. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced it, and it worked for a few days then blew again. Do you have schematics, or know where i can get some (besides the dealer, i really can't stand my local VW dealer)?



I've been meaning to research on the TDI club, i just can't stand some of the chumps over there. I don't post there, but just reading some of those posts frustrates me. Thanks for any help.

 

[FATCAT]

Well, I like the 15W-40 for my truck ... especially the longer intervals between changes. I like the idea of a thinner oil for the VW especially with the winter coming on ... New Hampshire gets quite cold and all my vehicles have never seen a garage. On those Jan/Feb mornings when it is -15 or colder, it does take the truck a bit of time to turn over (and thats when it is pluged in at night), the VW doesn't have a plug, so those mornings would be real tough with the 15W40 ... wouldn't they?



The Series 3000 is really expensive, but a 10,000 mile oil change interval would be nice ... less waste, less trips to the dealer (until the warrenty is up then I'll take care of it my self).



What about reducing the crud in the intake system (EGR, manifold, etc... ) by using the thinner oil compared to the 15W40?

I did have the EGR mod. done, so this will reduce most of these deposits ... I just don't want to have to deal with the Manifold cleaning process any time soon ... if ever.

 

[LightmanE300]

Rhickman, I agree, the general tone at the tdiclub is certainly not pleasant to me either... a bunch of sniveling whiners for the most part, but I'll leave it at that. Yes you can get all the wiring schematics in the Bentley Manual. I gave it to the new owner of my car, they are invaluable. The paper manual is $50 and the CD-ROM is like $70. I prefer the paper. You can get them at www.vwparts.com or www.dieselgeek.com I believe. Its invaluable, it has diagrams and breakdowns of just about everything in the car including engine internals, and step by step instructions on almost every procedure including timing belt changes, etc. A great $50 spent if you have a TDI.



FATCAT, I dont believe the thinner oil will have any different effect on the intake clogging. The EGR mod you did will reduce the clogging but not eliminate it. After 60k miles with the EGR mod (i did mine with just 800 miles on the car) I still had a slight layer of black. This is from the CCV spitting all the blowby and oil mist into the intake... . It's sure nice our cummins have environmentally unfriendly CCV systems that just spit it on the ground Thats basically what I did to my tdi. Block off with a PCV cap where the ccv enters the intake stream, and just run heater hose from the ccv puck down to the ground. I rarely got any drips on my garage floor, maybe 2 in the 60k I drove it... I also replaced my EGR entirely with a dieselgeek race pipe, which includes a block off plate for the EGR cooler. With the CCV re-routed and EGR eliminated, there was NO clogging or possibility. I must warn that modifying emissions equipment in a way that will increase emissions is a federal offense... . i. e. don't go get your emissions test without your EGR on... Other warning, the 'elephant hose' ccv mod may be a problem in very cold climates, a few have had them freeze up If you live up north, it's more adviseable to rig up a air/oil separator like the Eclipse unit. .

 

[Rman]

Thanks Lightman, i just dropped a hundred bucks on VW stuff. That has got to be the only thing i can't stand about this car is all the "special" tools you need to do relatively simple things.



The first time i changed the oil i about crapped my pants. Now i read on about the timing belt thing, this vag-com thing. I think i can change the belt myself (i have 10k to figure out how), but this VAG-COM thing. 500 bucks? c'mon can't i rent the darn thing?



Oh well, i guess technology has a price, but i sure miss working on my own cars. No one has, or will touch my pickup, but this little VW is sure a nightmare.



I like tools and all, but gees... it's got it's own set, and outta come with the car if you ask me!



Oh and guess what i found... the injection pump was some 3500 bucks for a "new" one. Well they have COMPLETE engines on sale this month for 3500 bucks... . with a new injection pump on it. What gives?

 

[LightmanE300]

Rhickman - vag com is $99 to register, and $40 for the interface/cable... . dunno where you were looking but it's cheap... .



Also on the TDICLUB there is a PDF with step by step pictures on how to change the timing belt... . its pretty helpful I'd say... Get the metalnerd tool before you do the job, everyone says it's priceless. .

 

[Rman]

It was some funky little kit thing, maybe it was a seperate computer in itself.



So it is simply a program installed on a laptop with an interface to the OBD connector? I guess that isn't so bad. Hey it'll give me an excuse to buy a new laptop!

 

[emarsh]

It makes sence to me that a small diesel with smaller internal parts ans closer clearances would use a lighter oil than a relatively larger cummins engine. I use the delvac 1 in my tdi and delo in the ram. Use what you want, no one ever agrees on motor oil, just listen to the points made and make your own decision.