-AN4 Fittings

[Big White Beast]

Been reading about installing the fuel pressure gauges. I have a 2001 with the shroeder fittings on my banjo bolts. I read that a -4AN fitting would attach right to it and go from there to the gauges or senders.



When I went to Earl's Perfomance and the -AN4 fittings they had to adapt it had a different bevel. Their's were 37½° bevels. Mine did not seem so steep. As this is going to the fuel lines I don't want any leaks.



I'm thinking of just getting the Banjo bolts from Geno's. A question I have here is they come in sets. I can only find the incoming (With shroeder valve) out going and the incoming to the VP44 (With shroeder valve) Where are the others?? One more question---What the heck are the shroeder valves for anyway? Bleeding the system??



I wish DC would get their act straight and send me my manuals. Still backordered



Garrett

 

[Bigsaint]

My original FP set up consisted of a pressure port adapter, plugged at one end, and a -4AN to -4AN (female/female) fitting, which I threaded directly to the Schrader valve on the filter housing. Never had any problems with a leak, used a 'pipe dope' made by Master Plumber called TFE paste. I passed this set up on to another member, when I upgraded my lines, I know that he has it in and it was working fine the last time we spoke. I purchased the original set up from Brandon, http://www.mypage.onemain.com/Brandon&Danelle/ , maybe he could advise whose product he used, as I am not sure which manufacture it came from, I would assume all -4AN fittings have the same bevel though. In fact, I just spoke with Brandon recently as I have been considering putting together a temporary FP gauge set up that we could pass around to members that don't have a permanent gauge, again, he advised that -4AN would hook right up to the Schrader.



I'm not sure why the system uses the Schrader valves, though I believe that the DC FP test tool has a needle inset which depresses the Schrader for FP testing, guessing that they went for the Schrader for FP testing ????



Another option, not that the banjo bolt upgrades are bad, is to loose them all together and replace with Weber adapters and Aeroquip elbows, though you would now be getting into braided line, it makes for a real nice fuel line upgrade and allows you to screw in a pressure port, pre-filter or post filter (I have both). The Aeroquip elbows allow for a smooth transfer of fuel without restriction.



I should correct the above by stating that the -4AN fitting was attached to the Schrader/test port. The valve itself must be removed for accurate readings. Sure that you knew this, but I juts re-read my post.



Scott W.

 

[cap-n-cray]

Great minds think alike

Hey Garrett,



I am currently working on a fuel pressure gauge set up. I have the gauge and banjo bolts and am working on getting the fuel line. One day we will get together and compare notes. I thought I say you today but the truck was not a QC.



Also, I have manuals.



Cary

 

[Big White Beast]

Mechanical or electrical??

Cary are you opting for the mechanical or electrical gauges? I was looking at a mechanical gauge for the cost today. Didn't like the liquid in the gauge. Had an air bubble at the top. I was wondering if that goes away with pressure? Anyone care to comment.



Bigsaint: The aeroquips sound like a much better system. But I think I will just go with the banjo bolts for ease and cost. I have an EZ now and will probably add DDII's when I get my trans done. That should be plenty of fuel. What I am wondering is do I need the whole set?? Or just the three I have been able to locate. Are there more from the VP44 out??



Thanks again,



Garrett

 

[nibranam]

Fuel gauge connection

You could just buy the single banjo bolt with the 1/8 NPT hole already tapped from Genos.

They are a new item made for Genos by a TDR member.

My impression of the one I bought was that it appears to be a quality part.

I intend to install it in the bottom of the fuel filter housing as suggested in other posts on this sight (I'm waiting until it's filter change time ).

This should be where the hose comes out of the filter going to the VP44.

Best of luck in whatever you do.

 

[Bigsaint]

Garrett, I replaced 3 banjos, inlet to filter housing, outlet from filter housing, inlet to the VP44. Check your Carter pump, is there any on the pump ? If so, I would also replace the banjo coming from the Carter to the filter, if it exists ( my Carter has been gone since late Jan. , can't remember if they use the banjos on the pump).



As far as the mechanical gauges go, you don't have to get one that is liquid filled. I'm running an Autometer Ultralite mech. gauge to monitor psi's, pre-filter, mounted it on the hood with a 'Scottybilt' custom bracket, works great. I have the SPA inside the cab for a post filter gauge.



Hope this helps !!!



Scott W.

 

[CCahill]

Scott,

#1 Very nice Avatar. .

#2 Since my truck is pretty mild (EZ, BDII's, disabled waistgate, 0880, and DTT's transmission), I just went with Ray's bolts. . bought a set before geno's got'em... . My truck is a daily driver worktruck, and I didnt see the need for more of an upgrade. .



Thats my thinkin' for now... ..... But then I look at Bigsaints smokestack PPHHHEEEEEEWWWWW That is so



Colin

 

[Bigsaint]

Thanks Colin, I borrowed the Avatar from David VT, believe it is now mandatory due to todays events .



One of these days I will drag DieselB59 back up here and we will take some good pics. of the smokestack in action, thanks for the comp. though.



Scott W.

 

[Big White Beast]

Thanks all,

If I am going to make amess I might as well do them all. I'm still up in the air on which gauge, but there is time to check them out.



As for today, I ready to re-up and head overseas. Devastating to say the least. My prayers go out to all the victims and their families.



God Bless,



Garrett

 

[cap-n-cray]

Garrett,



I am using a re-labeled Autometer mechanical boost gauge 0-35 psi. I am going to use stainless steel braided line with an off-on valve at the fuel filter. If it leaks I can turn it off quickly, with not too much damage.



You would need to bleed the gauge when first insalled.