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Anarchy Offroad Custom Long Arm Lift Kit for Dodge Pickup

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The arms are made from DOM tubing 1-1/4 OD 3/8 wall



Ok. .

With the chassis knowledge I have learned and been taught by some of the best in my area I'd enjoy to hear how you feel a DOM 1 1/4 3/8 wall tubing is going to provide them same performance and durability on our Rams your "chassis" builder has on Jeeps. Heavier and more costly 2",come one now,if your going to pimp a product at least have a idea of what your trying to get owners to do. Common knowledge of metals shows us enough common sense that your not using a strong enough material on the four bars and I will not even get into the dynamics of how unsafe the frame bracketry is. Your going against known suspension geometry knowledge by criss crossing the four bars to begin with. Once into full suspension travel its plain to see how undriveable and unsafe it will be. Pinion angles will never remain as you need them with the four bars crossed also. With at/above 4500 lbs on the front ends of our truck we have way more weight than ANY complete Jeep Crawler and thats not even counting the rear weight of the truck. Your crossed 4 bars will limit front end travel as its easy to see that once put into a awkward angle the bars will bind which may leave you with no out or way back off.



Tell you what my son,Take a heavy floor jack and lift the front end of the truck. Then place a heavy jackstand under the center of each of the miniscule lower arms you have. Let the jack back down at your own desired speed and allow the front end of the trucks weight to sit on the bars,dead center and see how strong the product is your asking other here to buy. One thing is for sure,its looks pretty, and it Might(and I mean might) make a fair street deal if the roads are not heavily potholed,but,rockcrawling,your asking for a problem or a circumstance you may not wish to deal with... ... ... Andy



BTW. .

One can easily see through your complete line of BS when you start trashing poly bushings and choose stock rubber over them.
 
Hammer,

Please explain why the arms and geometry are incorrect instead of the catch all phrases like "common knowledge".



Please address these three particular issues:

1. Buckling strength of these arms vs stock arms

2. Your jack stand test value on a non-rock crawler - how many of us have hung up our trucks on the control arm?

3. The dynamics of the frame bracketry.



I have no dog in this fight - I just want something more definitive than your "expert" opinion.



Brian
 
NVR FNSH said:
Hammer,

Please explain why the arms and geometry are incorrect instead of the catch all phrases like "common knowledge".



Please address these three particular issues:

1. Buckling strength of these arms vs stock arms

2. Your jack stand test value on a non-rock crawler - how many of us have hung up our trucks on the control arm?

3. The dynamics of the frame bracketry.



I have no dog in this fight - I just want something more definitive than your "expert" opinion.



Brian



1. Longer arms have to be much beefier than the factory ones, just for the fact that they are longer. Take a 12" 2x4 and a 36" 2x4. With the same weight in the middle which will break first?



2. Longer arms will get hung up more easily, even for a Mall-Terrain vehicle.



3. The Arm cross both up nd down, and left to right. You aren't going to get very much articulation without binding. Much like an ill-designed "traction bar" setup can bind.





That's my shadetree $. 02.



Merrick
 
Merrick,

1. Are the arms seeing any load mid span? Are they two-force members?

2. Granted longer arms could get hung up more easily but I haven't seen any speed bumps that got anywhere near tall enough to hang up my stock suspension. W/O doing the analysis I can't say what kind of load these arms can take compared to stock arms.

3. The mounts look suspiciously similar to the Cepek "Long Arm" kit - notice that the forward body mount is cut for the upper arm. With the zerk fittings it appears that the arms twist and will eliminate some of the binding concerns. Take a look at the "double wishbone" ( I can't think of the other name) 4 link suspensions used on rock crawlers that are achieving huge amounts of articulation.



Brian
 
First off, I appreciate your comments and knowledge of what is right or wrong.

People are different and tend to build different types of suspension if they have the ability or desire to outdo what's available to them... This is why we built this!

I'm not going going to get into a ******* battle with anoyone here. Your intellegence will aloow you to decide what is right or wrong.

I love it when I hear people trying to reinvent the wheel, For instance I want a three link vs a four link... If it was truly safer don't you think engineers would have designed a suspension like that instead.

This four link is cad drawn and checked as not perfectly obtained what we wanted this is by far superior to flex than stock or any other kit available to us, far superior strenght, A higher ground clearance is obtained, The dom bar will not bend if set on center of bar (I love that Jack stand real word test) we might have to use that one at our shops when we build championship winning vehicles! For what a dodge ram goes thru offroad in every situation other than the baja 1000 this kit will provide and does better the suspension flex in cycle. I'm truly sorry you do not like the setup but then it's not for you... Their are plenty of (four link kits) out their for you to purchase with poly bushings that only include one lower long link and keep the factory upper length that don't adjust... Again we didnt try to build a rock crawler suspension on a dodge, this kit will provide and does a better on road ride, Super quiet, The bushings don't bind, they are all fully rubber axled side and JJointed frame side which relieves all side loading stress unlike your noisey poly bushings, the arm is jointed and adjusts to allow a proper allignment job to be performed instead of the half *** job you get with non adjustable arms, and the kit also puts more metal around the arms bolts to stop the wollowing out problem that is common from the thin 3/16 brackets of stock. Again this kit was flexed and drivin and all people involved agreed that it was super improvement over stock or the other lifts we drove with other manufacturers lift kits...

Maybe well get some picks for you of us jumping the thing under warranty because if that's what your after we are not, that's why we build rock crawlers and desert race trucks here in a different bay. . We like our trucks to work properly, tow properly and ride superior to our friends trucks while also looking good very nice. .

Well keep you updated after we beat it a little more until then we will enjoy it...
 
NVR FNSH said:
Merrick,

1. Are the arms seeing any load mid span? Are they two-force members?

2. Granted longer arms could get hung up more easily but I haven't seen any speed bumps that got anywhere near tall enough to hang up my stock suspension. W/O doing the analysis I can't say what kind of load these arms can take compared to stock arms.

3. The mounts look suspiciously similar to the Cepek "Long Arm" kit - notice that the forward body mount is cut for the upper arm. With the zerk fittings it appears that the arms twist and will eliminate some of the binding concerns. Take a look at the "double wishbone" ( I can't think of the other name) 4 link suspensions used on rock crawlers that are achieving huge amounts of articulation.



Brian



I have no issue with any of you, no bias to any side. I have spent the last 13 years building my own and friends rigs. Mostly I broke every manner of every part I could find. I snapped the input of a NP435 and a Dana 70 pinion gear at the same. Trust me I can break anything. It is my super power. :{



1. Mid span load. Hopefully not. But as they hang lower and run longer than the stockers there is more possibility of them getting hit on obstacles. I do not 4wheel my 7000lb truck but I do use it for work around my farm and getting to some remote fishing spots. I have smacked my belly pan a few times and the location of those links is a little more vulnerable.



as for mid span load, even if they do not take that load, the typical loading on the ends of a smaller diameter tube will cause flex and that work of the flex of the metal will fatigue it. Cut that same link down to half its length and it is much stiffer and less prone to metal fatigue. A larger diameter tube is inherently stiffer and less prone to fatigue and consequently failure even if the only loads it ever sees are on the ends it will still bend in the middle and "work" the steel. It may return to its previous shape (straight) but it will only take so many of thse cycles of bending before it fails. Just like an axleshaft that can only twist and return to its previous condition so many times before it snaps. Its not a debate, its fact. Metal can flex but only so many times. He also said "he will upgrade if you want to goto 2"od arms super heavy wall he says but the price is much more expensive" If you need more beef, order it!



If you want something more buy yourself a shear and a welder and get crackin!



3. Double wishbone is called triangulated four link. With the proper separation and agling of the links it eliminates the need for a trac bar to control lateral axle movement and can flex quite well. As far as the anarchy mounts they are not at the correct angles to be triangulated and remove the trac bar. The stock link frame mount points are staggered, the top mount is outside the frame and the lower is directly under the frame. Just like the Anarchy mounts.



My opinion, (everybody has one :D ) is that the mounts look good. The standard links look kind of small but I would lay odds that they are effectively stronger than the ones that came with my skyjacker kit even with their increased length. I would like to see them made of chromoly material or even solid stock but since larger diameter is available if you want the beef you can get it. (If I get the kit I will go 2 in OD)





I break leaf springs, transfer case housings, spew pinions through the diff cover and generally destroy parts on my Jeeps. Breaking things is kind of a hobby for me. Durability and life span of materials is paramount when I design stuff. The tie rod and drag link on my Jeep are 1. 75 in DOM tube with 3/8ths wall.
 
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MarkMiller said:
... as for mid span load, even if they do not take that load, the typical loading on the ends of a smaller diameter tube will cause flex and that work of the flex of the metal will fatigue it. Cut that same link down to half its length and it is much stiffer and less prone to metal fatigue. A larger diameter tube is inherently stiffer and less prone to fatigue and consequently failure even if the only loads it ever sees are on the ends it will still bend in the middle and "work" the steel. It may return to its previous shape (straight) but it will only take so many of thse cycles of bending before it fails. Just like an axleshaft that can only twist and return to its previous condition so many times before it snaps. Its not a debate, its fact. Metal can flex but only so many times. He also said "he will upgrade if you want to goto 2"od arms super heavy wall he says but the price is much more expensive" If you need more beef, order it!



What type of loading is the control arm being subjected to - buckling, beam shear, tension/compression, bending, etc? Assume the bushings/bearings don't bottom out and there is no external load - as in landing on a rock - being applied.



Brian
 
NVR FNSH said:
I'm very familar with Baja and what you're talking about - just wasn't sure what you meant initially. I helped design/analysis parts for the Baldwin Racing Trophy trucks back in early '90s, also did some design work on the MacPherson trucks at the same time.



Brian



The Brian I know of that was involved in those projects was Brian Kudela (I think I spelled that right) and he owns Light Racing, is that you?
 
I'd love to see what flying like this does to Brandon's kit? Have you or Brandon The Knife tested this product in an off road environment? :eek:



Also, Brandon is very internet saavy, so not being able to get on the TDR is interesting to say the least... he plys the Pirate board without any issues daily. :--)
 
Baja_Mike said:
The Brian I know of that was involved in those projects was Brian Kudela (I think I spelled that right) and he owns Light Racing, is that you?



I worked for Bryan Kudela at the time - I did the analysis for the bell crank/rocker arm on the rear suspension for the Baldwin trucks.



Brian
 
RHyland said:
For instance I want a three link vs a four link... If it was truly safer don't you think engineers would have designed a suspension like that instead.

This four link is cad drawn and checked as not perfectly obtained what we wanted this is by far superior to flex than stock or any other kit available to us, far superior strenght, A higher ground clearance is obtained, The dom bar will not bend if set on center of bar (I love that Jack stand real word test) we might have to use that one at our shops when we build championship winning vehicles! For what a dodge ram goes thru offroad in every situation other than the baja 1000 this kit will provide and does better the suspension flex in cycle. I'm truly sorry you do not like the setup but then it's not for you... Their are plenty of (four link kits) out their for you to purchase with poly bushings that only include one lower long link and keep the factory upper length that don't adjust



Maybe well get some picks for you of us jumping the thing under warranty because if that's what your after we are not, that's why we build rock crawlers and desert race trucks here in a different bay. . We like our trucks to work properly, tow properly and ride superior to our friends trucks while also looking good very nice. .

Well keep you updated after we beat it a little more until then we will enjoy it...



First off,

Your truck has a 5 link..... ? Hmmmm so much for cad designed 4 link, Huh? If you decied to come into the suspension world, you will look amaturistic if you do not know your stuff. As for jumping under warranty, there are a few of us who have over 30,000 off road miles on our trucks and have been jumping them for years. My personal truck goes out daily taking customers for the ride of their life. I am sure there are a few on here that have been for that ride. We push the Dodge Ram HD to its limits daily, R&D is never ending, and test with thousands of miles of off road abuse. Just wait until next year... ... You Will Be Stoked!!!!



Greg DRC
 
desertbull said:
I'd love to see what flying like this does to Brandon's kit? Have you or Brandon The Knife tested this product in an off road environment? :eek:



Also, Brandon is very internet saavy, so not being able to get on the TDR is interesting to say the least... he plys the Pirate board without any issues daily. :--)





So TRUE Desert Bull! Knife, where are you? Knife is one of my favorite competitors and one of the most colorful.



See you on the course Desert Bull! Oo.
 
NVR FNSH said:
What type of loading is the control arm being subjected to - buckling, beam shear, tension/compression, bending, etc? Assume the bushings/bearings don't bottom out and there is no external load - as in landing on a rock - being applied.



Brian



If both arms are working in perfect unison then it is a tension compression load. An argument could be made for some buckling load but it would be minor. Since both arms are assumed to be under identical tensions at their connection point they should transfer the load between them as tension and compression. However some buckling force may come in as the mounting points are not perfectly inline with the axle centerline.



And landing on a rock would destroy a stock link. Think about it like this: drop a big rock on your foot. Hurts doesn't it? Now stand on the same rock. the load of your foot is dispersed across the sole of your shoe and not focused at one point.
 
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