Anatomy of a coolant filtration system

[Gary - K7GLD]

Off and on, there have been discussions on TDR forums concerning coolant filters - what are they, how do they work - and are they really needed.



This thread will present a setup as sold by DIESELSITE - DIESEL MAINTENANCE and PERFORMANCE - this outfit offers coolant setups tailored for specific brand and model trucks, which means everything is included for the installation except tools. This particular set, for my '02 Dodge/Cummins, was $119.



These are more accurately described as bypass coolant filters - the main coolant flow remains undisturbed, but a small bypass coolant flow is taken off a port on the engine head, run thru the added coolant bypass filter, then the filtered flow is returned to the system thru the heater return hose.



The filter itself - a Baldwin brand - has a built in restriction, as seen below:



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BUT, I'm getting ahead of myself - here's what comes in the box:



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Note the nice touch of the included inlet/outlet ball valves, seen above at the upper center - these make filter changes a snap, with no coolant loss during a filter change, other than what's contained inside the filter canister.



There's lots of flexibility regarding actual location of the filter itself, as well as routing of the hoses - so I won't dwell specifically on that, but just show how I did mine overall. Here's where the coolant flow is picked off the existing port in the head - and this is the only place where I deviated from what the instructions called for - they used a straight fitting and 3/8 barb that stuck straight up - requiring the attached hose to make a sharp bend to get to wherever the filter itself was mounted. I didn't like that, so bought and installed the fittings to allow the far neater installation seen here:



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The return coolant flow requires that the heater return hose be cut, and a "T" fitting installed:



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And finally, the actual site I selected to install the filter bracket and canister, is on the passenger side frame rail just behind the front bumper - and camera perspectives can be deceiving - NONE of the added filter or attachments come even CLOSE to other truck components - no potential contact, and the coolant filter itself is easy to get to for changing.



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So, again - WHY a coolant filter? Here's what the seller says:

Detailed Description



Shut off Valves are included in this system.



Coolant filters are not a new idea to the diesel engine world. They come in most OEM applications for medium duty and OTR tractor trailer rigs. The idea was somehow tossed aside for light duty applications, most likely due to cost. For our light duty trucks it is a very important issue that needed to be addressed. Many diesel engines - like the Powerstroke - are cast with sand in the process. This sand is NOT completely removed from the system. In fact, much of this sand leaches out of the casting over time. The sand wears away at water pump seals, hoses and radiators. Removal of this sand can greatly increase your water pump life.



In addition to sand, there are other things that the filter is removing. SCAs, or supplemental coolant additives used in protecting against cavitation, often flake off the walls. This "precipitate" is a very abrasive particle - like a scale - floating around freely in the system unless caught by a filter.



The DIESELSITE Coolant Filter Install system will remove the loose particles in your cooling system and give your water pumps, radiators, water necks and radiator hoses the protection they need from these abrasive materials. Wear is virtually eliminated by the removal of undesirable elements in your system. The desirable elements, like the actual chemical used in the SCA is not removed.



HOW DOES IT WORK?



The DIESELSITE Coolant Filter Kit is a bypass-style system that filters a small amount of the coolant on each pass. By using a spin on filter we make it easy for you to change your coolant filter at regular intervals. These filters will remove all solid particles -- new or old. It is never too late to install a coolant filter in order to extend the longevity of your cooling system components. While you cannot reverse the damage that is already done, you can eliminate further damage from occurring. This kit is a must for every truck.



In the past 9 years of doing business, we have seen a pattern of water pump failure. If you are one of the unlucky owners who have lost your pump between 40,000 and 80,000 miles it isn't too late to protect your new pump. While some damage to your pump may already be done, a coolant filter install kit will extend the longevity of your pump before it fails. AND, it will definitely insure that your next water pump will last much longer than your first one did.



The DIESELSITE Coolant Filter Install Kit includes all fittings, hose and stainless steel clamps needed for installation.



Recommendations on filter changes:

Use one filter every three months for the first nine months after installation. After the 4th filter is installed your filter should be changed once per year.

SO, there ya have it - mine's all installed, and when the first filter change is done, I'll cut the canister apart, and post what the element caught in my system. I've serviced my cooling system at better than required intervals - used Prestone coolant, steam distilled water, and Prestone water pump lube. I also have a zinc anode radiator cap device that supposedly eliminates cooling system electrolysis damage. SO, we'll see what visual benefits this setup provides - stay tuned! :-laf

 

[SHobbs]

Gary,



Thank you for the post. I have been looking at installing one of these on my truck and have wondered just how well it works. I'll be watching to see what the results are. Maybe a quick note to the supplier on how you tapped into the head port. Maybe they can update the kit with the same type of fitting.



Scott

 

[Hammer]

Gary...

The Riley's are great people and have been good to our chapter and club for years. That is a fine product he has put together for the Ford contingent.



To say it works well for them is an understatement.

Here is one of my close friends at work coolant filters after his first scheduled change on his 02 F250 Stroke. I had told Bill about the Riley's kit and why he needed it for his Powerstroke which he then ordered and installed. The shots below will show you what came out of his 30,000 mile truck.



The first shot is the filter and the second the container is what was drained out of the filter when it was cut apart... ... . Andy

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Here's the installation instructions:



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[BILLVO]

You should have your coolant tested just like you test your oil, most oil testing facilities can and do test coolant as well, many people don't realize coolant breaks down just like oils and it can actually be burnt also. They have coolant filters with sca additives in them in different levels to replenish the system if needed but only a coolant sample or test strip will confirm this,They make test strips that can test sca levels too, don't just go adding it without knowing the current level needed. There isn't much harm in electrolosys in a solid cast block like ours but it is always nice to control, it wreaks havock on a block with liners in them as it erodes the block and liner usually in the o-ring area. It was worse on older engines and has been controlled better with newer additives, filters and design changes in coolant flow paths inside the blocks.



Systems with coolant cooled turbos are the worst for coolant life and these systems really need to be tested on a regular basis.



$119 is a bit steep for me though as you could go to any TSC or Ag store and get all the supplies for probably around 50 bucks.



Adding a filter will never hurt a thing and is good in some cases like the ford story above.

 

[WilsonF]

I am interested in this also,although I would go the same route as BILLVO. Just need to know how many micron filter it would call for.
Floyd

 

[BILLVO]

I am interested in this also,although I would go the same route as BILLVO. Just need to know how many micron filter it would call for.

Floyd

Most filter makers actually make a specific coolant filter I would think for a bypass coolant would be less than 5 micron and like I said above you can get them with a range of sca additive inside the filter. Just need to find out what thread size they use to match it to a generic filter head. most filter heads come with a range of thread options.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Coolant filters are probably overkill for most guys, other than those like me who tend to keep our vehicles longer than most - not much use in installing one on a vehicle that will be traded every 2-3 years, tho' the filters are transferable from one vehicle to another.



I picked this setup because the price seemed reasonable, all complete in one package, and easily bought by others who might be interested, as opposed to setups requiring significant legwork or scattered ordering of individual parts. You get a bit sensitive to that when you live in remote rural areas as we do - your source of potential supply gets rather limited...



As to electrolysis - I would be far more concerned to it's effects on the radiator and heater cores - both expensive and difficult to repair or replace.



Years ago, a diesel mechanic friend stated that filtration was the life of a diesel engine, especially if the expected million mile lifespan was a goal. In my case, I should get *2* million miles - I have virtually every engine system filtered FAR above and beyond what most would consider "normal"... :-laf

 

[CDonaldson]

Gary.



Thanks for the link, this is actually an excellent thing to install, just one more ounce of prevention that would add to parts life expectancy in the overall.



CD

 

[MA2LA]

WIX sells a similar kit and damn near everyone sells coolant filters, Napa stocks them.

 

[bmoeller]

Gary, I would suggest getting a hose sleeve. A heater hose won't last long, that close to the exh. manifold. They get hard, dried out, and snap like a carrot.

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Line, Wire & Hose Protection - Truechoice Motorsports

I've never bought anything from the above link, just did a quick 'net search. I know KW uses that kind of stuff. My truck has some that has snaps on it, so it will be easy to add or remove after the lines are installed.

 

[FYarcho]

I bought this system about 9 months ago. I changed the filter once after three months and will change it once a year after that. Personally I don't know if it will do anything for sure. I guess time will tell. But the way I looked at it is the cost was reasonable and I can't see that it would in any way hurt anything. The only think I would suggest is I keep the plug with me in my truck and some spare hose and clamp Just in case there is a problem and needs to be repaired on the road.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

WIX sells a similar kit and damn near everyone sells coolant filters, Napa stocks them.

Always nice to have alternative choices - local NAPA didn't have a clue - OR a listing for a coolant system filter - the "delights" of boondock suppliers! :-laf



No one said these were the ONLY ones available - or necessarily the BEST - just the one *I* installed...

Gary, I would suggest getting a hose sleeve. A heater hose won't last long, that close to the exh. manifold. They get hard, dried out, and snap like a carrot.

Actually, the hose routing I used is no closer to the exhaust system heat than the OEM hoses - and LOTS further away than the routing the seller illustrated in their install piece - but the sleeves are a good idea.

 

[PRout]

Another great one from the "Anatomy" series. This is going on the list of wants for the future.

I like the 90* fitting improvement, and also the thermal insulation suggestion.

One more addition that comes to mind would be a shut-off valve. For example, when installing the latest oil bypass filter, I had no leaks at idle during a visual inspection after the install, but while driving to work I noticed the pressure slightly fluctuating at highway speed. Found one of the fittings had been drilled too far inside and had a hairline fracture that was only leaking at the higher pressure of highway driving and was leaking oil down the hoses. Was VERY handy to have the needle valve at the tap-off point to shut it off until I could get home and change the fitting. Think I'll add one of those to the coolant bypass when the time comes as well.

Thanks Gary. .

Added: Guess it would be best to add 2 shutoffs. One at the tap-off point, and one at the return point also, but only inline with the filter and not with the heater return so it doesn't pop the heater core when shut off.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Phil, the setup DOES have shutoff ball valves - they are installed on the inlet/outlet to the filter head itself - but could as easily be placed up at the engine and heater hose if desired - a slight additional coolant loss at filter change, but not enough to be concerned about.

 

[R C Cola]

By Pass Filter

You have got me wondering why you would use this filter instead of a Frantz since it is obviously a bypass type filter and flow volume is not a problem. Have you experienced any volume problems with the bypass fuel filter that you installed a while back. ? I have hesitated on that based on concern of not having enough volume when pulling hills loaded.

 

[PRout]

Phil, the setup DOES have shutoff ball valves - they are installed on the inlet/outlet to the filter head itself - but could as easily be placed up at the engine and heater hose if desired - a slight additional coolant loss at filter change, but not enough to be concerned about.

Ahhhhh, good deal. . I should have picked up on the fact you mentioned the ball valves in the original post. For some reason from the picture, I was thinking they were some sort of automatic one-way check valves.

Pretty nice system. .

The Frantz idea is kind of interesting, but since frantz touts their filter as being able to "remove water from the oil", it is easy to be skeptical about using one for this purpose. But not ruling it out yet though. There should be enough pressure since we know it will work at around 15 psi as a fuel filter. Doesnt the cooling system run at about that pressure also?

 

[RHestand]

Gary,

Thanks for an execellant post.

Re: Powerstroke blocks cast with sand.

Just curious, are our Cummins blocks cast with sand?

If not, what method?

I've seen some aircraft eng. parts (cases and cyl. jugs) that I'm pretty sure were cast, but looked too good to be sand cast.

Sorry if I'm stealing your thread.

Thanks for any info. you might have on this.

Ray

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

You have got me wondering why you would use this filter instead of a Frantz since it is obviously a bypass type filter and flow volume is not a problem. Have you experienced any volume problems with the bypass fuel filter that you installed a while back. ? I have hesitated on that based on concern of not having enough volume when pulling hills loaded.

2 entirely different type filters - the TP cartridge as used in the Frantz OIL bypass system works great when exposed to hot oil, and provides the extreme density for the sub-micron filtration sought in that specific survive, as well as the strength and durability to survive hot oil flow.



But that's oil - when exposed to hot WATER, all bets are off, and the Frantz would fail miserably in that application. The Pair of Frantz filters I use - one for oil, the other for fuel - work perfectly, and absolutely NO complaints!



The setup discussed in this thread, uses a filter media type designed specifically for this application - and long term exposure to hot water and the related coolant chemicals such as antifreeze are no problem. I should have pointed out earlier, that the basic reason there is a restriction to flow in this coolant filtration setup, is to prevent excessive bypassing of coolant flow AROUND the engine thermostat - which could interfere with normal coolant temperature control.

Gary,

Thanks for an execellant post.

Re: Powerstroke blocks cast with sand.

Just curious, are our Cummins blocks cast with sand?

If not, what method?

I've seen some aircraft eng. parts (cases and cyl. jugs) that I'm pretty sure were cast, but looked too good to be sand cast.

Sorry if I'm stealing your thread.

Thanks for any info. you might have on this.

Ray

As far as I know (not much!), pretty much all conventional engine block castings are done with the sand forms - surely someone will pop in if that is incorrect - and random core sand left inside the block after the casting process has been noted for as long as I have been around engines - tho' not usually as significant an issue as suggested in the quote up at the beginning of this thread - if it was, it would be just as big an issue on the OTHER side of the casting - the crankcase side - with resulting sand (Silicon) in the oil flow.



As far as I'm concerned, the coolant filtration setups like this one fall more in the "luxury", or "finer points" area for guys looking for that "extra" touch of engine care and protection - nice, and valuable to a degree -but not particularly a necessity - but glad to have mine, and it's a keeper! :-laf

 

[05mxdiesel]

Gary, I have the same filter and head as you, but I bought mine off of ebay and made my own kit.



I'm suprised that you of all people would not tout the frantz as the king of all filters, including coolant. There has been multiple threads over at Bitog about using a frantz or motorguard as a coolant filter. Below is a link to a recent one that has excellent pics. Although I do agree with you though, and thats why I bought the baldwin unit, as it was designed for coolant filtration.





Thanks for the writeup though, I placed mine on the outside framerail beside the turbo. I have not changed my filter yet at 13k miles. I will let it go to one year or until it quits getting hot.





First MG Coolant Filter Change - Pics - Bob Is The Oil Guy