Annoying Pac Brake Issue

[Chase Chapin]

Fellow enthusiasts:

I have a rather annoying intermittent issue with my Pac brake wiring, hoping you all could offer suggestions. Every so often and especially after driving rough dirt roads my compressor and associated accessories do not function. I know the cause is that cheesy little T-tap wire connector to the ignition on wire--it jiggles loose. GRRRR! so what is a better alternative to more securely attach the Pac Brake wire to the ignition on wire in front of the firewall? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[petersonj]

I know the cause is that cheesy little T-tap wire connector to the ignition on wire--it jiggles loose. GRRRR! so what is a better alternative to more securely attach the Pac Brake wire to the ignition on wire in front of the firewall?

That is exactly why I do not use those types of splices. Furthermore, it causes damage to the wire being spliced into.

I would find a location that allows enough space for a proper splice. I use a non insulated crimp connector, solder, and heat shrink. You will never have a problem with this kind of a connection. Also, if I don't have a non insulated crimp connector, I just remove the insulation from an insulated one.

- John

 

[Chase Chapin]

John,
thanks for promptly responding! Forgive my ignorance but what is a "non insulated" crimp connector? And if I was using a crimp connector is the solder necessary? Also, what location would you suggest? I see you also have a Pac Brake as well but I know on the 02 the ECM and assorted wiring is in a different location. Thanks!

PS I'm almost positive that this issue caused the 30A compressor fuse to blow unexpectedly last summer so want to avoid that in the future as well!

 

[Tuesdak]

Solder with a mechanical connection is the ultimate answer for a long lasting connection. Crimp connectors have resistance, corrode, and fail. Solder eliminates that problem.

Myself I would bend the tapping wire end around the ignition wire in a loop and then hit it with the 250W solder gun.

 

[petersonj]

Forgive my ignorance but what is a "non insulated" crimp connector?

Insulated terminals on the left, non insulated on the right. A non insulated butt connector (lower right photo) will provide an excellent crimp with the proper crimping tool. A good crimping tool will contain the sides of the connector while pressing a dimple into the connector at a position 180 degrees from the seam. Insulated connectors just mash the insulation and distort the actual connection.

@Tuesdak's method also a very good method; however, you won't be able to use heat shrink. You will have to use electrical tape to cover the connection. Also, be careful not to leave a bent wire strand poking out as it will wear through the tape and could cause a hard to diagnose electrical problem.

- John

 

[petersonj]

And if I was using a crimp connector is the solder necessary?

Sorry, I forgot to answer your question. If the wire connection is inside the cab, it is much less likely that corrosion will be a problem, so soldering is not necessary (but still a good idea). Sometimes the final decision comes down to the difficulty / ease of soldering and / or crimping the connection (or both). If the wire connection is outside of the cab, I would definitely solder the connection with or without the crimp connector.

Also, what location would you suggest?

Your signature suggests that the PacBrake is on your 04.5 truck. I am not familiar with the wiring on this truck. From your description of the electrical connection problem you are having, it sounds like you could use the same location - just make a better connection.

- John

 

[Chase Chapin]

Sorry, I forgot to answer your question. If the wire connection is inside the cab, it is much less likely that corrosion will be a problem, so soldering is not necessary (but still a good idea). Sometimes the final decision comes down to the difficulty / ease of soldering and / or crimping the connection (or both). If the wire connection is outside of the cab, I would definitely solder the connection with or without the crimp connector.



Your signature suggests that the PacBrake is on your 04.5 truck. I am not familiar with the wiring on this truck. From your description of the electrical connection problem you are having, it sounds like you could use the same location - just make a better connection.

- John

Wow I feel like a dummy! I've seen and used both types of those connectors! Just never thought of their proper name.

Right now the connection is on the firewall where the wiring harness goes to the ECM I'm assuming? Where might I tap into that source under the dash inside? Just extend the wire and plug in.... right now it's a blade-type connection to the T-tap (perhaps for easy removal when the compressor must be pulled?) Idk just brainstorming. So maybe I shouldn't move it... Bounce some more ideas off me when you're free. Thanks John!

 

[Ozymandias]

Sorry, outdated.
Heat shrink/solder connectors with glue are the way to go today on computerized vehicles.

https://www.google.com/search?q=heat shrink solder connectors&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m