Another BAD lift pump

[Steve St.Laurent]

My truck was running horrible at Thunder in Muncie this weekend - guess what, yep ANOTHER bad lift pump. I've changed these out so many times now that I can do it with my eyes closed, I can just reach into my tool box and feel for the right wrenches because they've been in my hands so many times!! This one lasted 15,000 miles running great and started to die this weekend on me. It's variable right now, sometimes it's running great other times not. This is lift pump number 4 or 5 (in 74,000 miles) - I've lost count!! There is a new rev lift pump due out soon (Cummins has it listed but can't order it yet - it's on status 80, not available yet) that is supposed to have some improvements (hardened seats). I'm going to be trying out an aftermarket solution on my truck this time along with replacing the lift pump with the brand new one I have sitting on the shelf. I'll post my results in another 20,000 or 30,000 miles to let you know how it works (IF it doesn't die before that). If this doesn't work out then I'm junking the entire system from the tank to the VP44 and starting over - I'm sick of changing my lift pump more often than my air cleaner!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Todd T]

I feel for you man, as i stated in Jack's post (degrading performance) mine kept me from racing this weekend. I noticed the last five or six starts in a row the pump didnt cycle. then sunday morning before racing (after paying for it though) i checked my pressure and i only had 7PSI at idle and it dropped to 0 at mid throttle.



i was going to make one run, and pack it in, so i went to fuel up and the truck felt like the pm3 was turned off, it was sooo slugish. instead i decided rather than risk loosing it 370 miles from home, i just watched and limped her home.



we made it OK, and right now i'm slated for monday to have it replaced.

 

[Bigsaint]

I hope the newer members are reading these posts on the lift pump issue and the need for a FP gauge, especially if they are BOMBers, and already have warranty concerns. I thought that the lift pump problems were relegated to the 1998 trucks, or am I wrong, as it appears FUBAR right on up to and including the 2001. 5's, as I am witness to. I know this, if, for some reason I was limited to two gauges, they would be FP and egt.



Scott W.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Who Makes a dual FP and EGT Gauge?

Originally posted by Bigsaint

I know this, if, for some reason I was limited to two gauges, they would be FP and egt.



Scott W.

I have thought for some time now that FP was more important than boost, especially for us stockers. Sure would like to plug in a SPA dual FP and EGT. Heck maybe they alrady have one, think I will take a peek at the SPA web site.



Shelby

 

[MikeR]

I put lift pump #3 on my truck a couple of months ago and of course it's not gonna last forever either. Right now I'm adding a second lift pump back by the tank that's going to run off its own circut.



-Mike

 

[ACoyle]

Shelby - Call Westach. They will make you whatever you want. If you are interrested they can paint the gage faces to match your truck. I spoke with Pete. He was very helpful.

 

[RichB59]

tools

I'm takeing a long trip this summer and thought I should have a spare lift pump with me. Can some giveone me a idea of what tools I should have if I need to change it on the road? Thanks in advance.



Rich

 

[thepitts]

I feel your pain

I too am on my third lift pump but in only 22500 miles. But aslong as it is under warrenty they can keep replacing them. Who knows I may get back the cost of my truck in lift pumps.

 

[Cliffman]

I don’t get it. I have 35,000 miles on my ETH and still on the original lift pump . Started Bombing at 5,000 miles. The pump is still showing 10 psi at idle. Lets hope it stays that way

 

[HVAC]

Aftermarket Pump

Sorry to hear about your deceased pump Steve



This is the pump I mentioned on the phone-



Summit #SUM-G3134 $99. 95



Several guys are using it with very good success. It is providing good pressure and is of a good design (gerotor). Maybe the most attractive thing is the price



I still have my Mallory on my truck and it's been on since early October, "00.



Shelby, any SPA gauge that measures pressure and temp could be used for your purposes. You could one with a face that reads pressure/temp. It's the DG-113. However, there isn't a face that reads fuel pressure/egt.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Cliffman, have you checked your pressures driving down the road? Idle is not the time to check them - I've seen pumps that were making 10 psi at idle and once you cracked the throttle driving down the road would go to 0! The pump on my truck right now is at 12 psi at idle and going down to 4 psi at half throttle - that's enough that my truck isn't running as good and it's noticable! WAY less smoke out the back, and lose 4 psi of boost (normal peak is 40).



-Steve

 

[Cliffman]

Steve,



At 2000 RPM's in 5th gear the SPA reads 7psi.

When I roll into it heave it gets down to 4 psi.

Going up a steep grade in 3rd gear rolling into it hard I can get it down to 1 psi

I have the airoquip fuel lines and no bango's. I would think the elimination of the bango's would actually lower the pressure since there's less restriction .



I'm thinking of buying one of the OEM lift pumps just to have it in case that thing takes a crap when I'm on a trip

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Tools needed

Here you go Rich, this is off the top of my head (I did have to look up the torque specs):



Tools needed

-----------------

Negative battery cables = 13mm wrench

Positive cable at starter = 15mm socket

Solenoid cable at starter = 8mm socket

Starter mounting bolts = 10mm 12 point socket and extensions (preferrably a wobble extension), and box wrench

Banjo bolts at lift pump = 17mm socket and wrench

lift pump mounting nuts = 13mm socket and wrench

socket wrench

torque wrench



Misc

-----

4 new rubber washers for the banjo fittings (sometimes the new pump comes with there, other times not)

Rags to clean the area around the lift pump



Torque specs

------------

starter mount bolts = 32 ft/lbs

positive cable at starter = 120 in/lbs

solenoid cable at starter = 55 in/lbs

banjo bolts = 18 ft/lbs

lift pump mount nuts = 9 ft/lbs





I wouldn't worry about the inch lb torque values but I would torque the banjo fittings and the lift pump mount bolts so as to not distort the pump housing at all. I personally use a torque wrench on everything I tighten down - hold over from my racing days.





Cliff - if I were you I'd be replacing that pump now. With your mods I'm betting you'd see a performance increase.



MikeR - I'm doing the same, adding a pusher pump at the tank to feed the stock lift pump.



HVAC - thanks for the info, I'm going to try this route first and if it doesn't work out I'll probably just go to the Mallory setup at the tank that you are running. I don't like the idea of having my lift pump sucking fuel from all the way back there even if it is a better pump.



-Steve

 

[KWIKKURT]

I added a second Carter HP fuel pump in parrallel to the stock lift pump. It is set up so that it only runs when the pressure at the VP44 banjo falls below 7psi. This way it runs only when I am standing on it. (about 50% of the time - the other 50% is on the brakes!) If the primary ever fails the second pump will pick up the slack and the VP44 will never run short on fuel. I hooked up a small light to let me know when it is helping out.



Cliff, as Steve St. L said I would still add or replace your pump. My boost increased over 4PSI with the new pump.