Another clutch thread

[JLEONARD]

Anybody replaced theirs with a regular parts store clutch lately?

My son does most of his business with Car Quest... anybody use one of theirs?

Anyone care to share a good or bad experience?

Thanks

 

[JGrefenstette]

good question. ive been wondering the same myself. and if i may add to the thread a bit, with out taking away from your question... . would getting a stronger clutch (south bend perfomance etc. ) kill the getrag quicker due to its more agresivness?? is it worth putting a perfomance clutch in a getrag with over 250,000 mi?? or is a regular parts store clutch the way to go?

 

[GHarman]

Jimmy, I installed (with help) a South Bend in "Old Ugly" and it works really smooth. I dont know much about the parts store clutches, but the S. B. Con-O is a full 13" Diameter but the facing is only 3" wide. I do like the roller pilot bearing. If it doesnt hold up with my style of driving, I would be suprised. The parts store clutches are, I believe, cheaper. Check the facing surface area. I have a concern with no real reason. The S. B. has some seroius spring fingers compared to the stock unit. GregH

 

[GHarman]

JLeonard, Just wanted to encourage you to go all the way if you want to hang on to your truck fer a while. Pull the flywheel and replace the rear main seal. I'm glad I did on mine. The Quad 4X4 seal kits work great, and I am not a professional mechanic. Everything went wrong in my experience, but it finally came together. GregH

 

[JGrefenstette]

Greg, is the rear main seal kit you used reasonably priced?? I will be starting Diesel Tech school in august, and will be in it for 2 years. so if my clutch is going to go, i would perfer it to last me at least till i get to school, but hopefully untill i can graduate and have some money. but if it does go while in school, i would be able to pull the truck into class and do the clutch and the rear main at that point too. with the help of some of the best diesel mechanics in the state of North Carolina

 

[PToombs]

I replaced mine with a "stock" replacement from Fleetpride. I paid about $250 for the kit, disc, plate, bushing and throwout bearing. This was about 5 years ago. I don't have a clue what it was, I didn't know nuttin' then. It's held up well so far.

 

[GHarman]

Jimmy, I wouldnt say it was reasonably priced. The seal, installation tool and installation CD are the kit. The seal is alot more substantial than the factory original. I just looked at their web site and they had a HUGE price increase. If you are going to D. M. School, I would wait, if you can, and do it there. You may be able to identify a superior seal and get a discount on parts. The one I installed had two teflon wipers, one white and one black that were much larger than the factory seal.



PToombs, That sounds like a real deal on that clutch. I had to pull my flywheel to replace the rear main anyway, so I just replaced everything. Did you have your flywheel resurfaced? Blanchard ground or turned? Did you replace the pilot bearing? A bad pilot bearing will ruin the input shaft bearings in the transmission, as I understand it. That is what got me started on this project. A bad pilot bearing. GregH

 

[JLEONARD]

I DO plan on resurfacing the flywheel, replacing the pilot brg, slave cyl, hadn't thought about the seal but now that I'm reminded I will while it's apart.

And I have no clue how long I'll be keeping my truck... . but the stocker works fine grabs ok, has never slipped, etc. , so I really don't need a performance clutch and don't want to pay for one of you follow my logic.

I know if I do the clutch I need to have the gutbag checked/reshimmed, whatever, and after that some paint and front end work so it's the total deal if I do anything at all.

In other words I'll do it right, but I'll also look to save $250 if I can here and there.



The other choice is another truck, but I know anything that's got 5 years or nore on it likely needs a couple of Gs worth of work anyway, so there's the rub.

Thanks for all the input... and any more is also apprecicated.

Jay

 

[NIsaacs]

About 6 years ago @ about 250 thousand miles, I decided it was time to change out mine in the 91'. I tried Car Quest and Napa, they had them in stock, however they were the 12-1/4" like the 2-gen 5spds. They are supposed to be a direct replacement. Since the 1-gen uses a 13" I said "thanks but no-thanks". I reinstalled the original w/a new throwout brg.



The original still looked good and now has 300,000 miles on it. I don't use it much since I bought the 01'.



I am not sure what they offer today.







"NICK"

 

[MMiller]

Jay, I would make sure you end up with a 13" clutch. Like said above, most places want to sell you a 12 1/4" clutch, and the second gens had more clutch problems when they came out, compaired to the first gens. I went with a SB con O. I do tow heavy and like the clutch alot, it has much smoother engagement then the sachs I pulled out. I plan on keeping the truck a long time, and pulling alot of heavy trailers, so it was a no brainer to put a better then stock clutch in. Would I do it again, you bet.



*I* would go back with an OEM Sach's long before putting a "cheap" clutch in. They are proven performance and reliablitly.



I do hope you keep driving a first gen. I do have my 200,000 miles sachs clutch, disk and flywheel in the garage, want me to send it to you? Its only been driven through a couple times, once on the sled trying to pull third gear!



Michael

 

[DValentine]

I have had good luck with LUK:-laf

 

[cerberusiam]

I have NEVER had good luck with the cheaper parts stores, or, their brand of remanned clutches.



Maybe they quit that stuff now and with the diesels but I would not put anything other than new pieces and a resurfaced flywheel in. Hate doing it twice.

 

[PToombs]

My rear main was leaking, that's why I did mine too. I had the flywheel turned, I don't think the guys name was Blanchard, maybe Jim Bob? :-laf

I learned long ago the hard way, replace everything! New throw out, pilot and pressure plate.

 

[GHarman]

My rear main was leaking, that's why I did mine too. I had the flywheel turned, I don't think the guys name was Blanchard, maybe Jim Bob? :-laf

I learned long ago the hard way, replace everything! New throw out, pilot and pressure plate.

Jim Bob Blanchard? I thought that was a process on a plate not a Name:-laf. Was there any curvature to the turned flywheel face? (hence; the advantage of blanchard grinding). Just curious, not trying to be a "wize guy" like someone I won't mention. PETE:-laf!!!! GregH

 

[MMeier]

Billy Jim Bob Blanchard perhaps??!!

 

[PToombs]

Billy Jim Bob Blanchard perhaps??!!

Only in Nevada! :-laf



Greg, I didn't notice any curvature, but I didn't look either. I saw it was turned, so I put it in. They might have even used a Blanchard wheel on it and I wasn't smart enough to know the difference. I know it's worked great since I did it.

 

[JLEONARD]

Does anyone have the South Bend MU0090 Rally (12 3/4") (at $375)? Or is the stock Sachs (13") better (at $425) because it's 13 "?



(The Con O is $800 so that's doesn't even make the list).

Thanks

 

[MMiller]

I'd go with the Sachs as we all know it works, and holds up well. The Rally is not rated for towing(right?). I know you don't tow very much, but why put a clutch in a truck with a diesel, and not have it ready to pull a trailer at a moments notice?



I've seen several Rally's fail(on the internet), the guy was cheep, and bought the Rally, and it failed, when the owner knew full well it was not rated for certain uses.



Michael

 

[JLEONARD]

Michael,

Several points well made, taken and understood.

That's what I was looking for, actual experience not opinions with no foundation.

The Sachs is what I will shop for as it has served this truck very well for 200K miles... . the original owner towed a 5th wheel on occasion from what I was able to find out. (yes I know we are all out looking for sachs..... ooops, wrong forum. Ok so I never made it as a comedian:-laf)

I'm surprised that a South Bend product is so crappy in an application that they market for.

 

[MMiller]

Michael,

Several points well made, taken and understood.

That's what I was looking for, actual experience not opinions with no foundation.

The Sachs is what I will shop for as it has served this truck very well for 200K miles... . the original owner towed a 5th wheel on occasion from what I was able to find out. (yes I know we are all out looking for sachs..... ooops, wrong forum. Ok so I never made it as a comedian:-laf)

I'm surprised that a South Bend product is so crappy in an application that they market for.

The last time I was at SBC's webcite, they made very sure to state that at Rally clutch will hold decent power(350 hp/700 ft lbs), BUT is not for heavy towing. It is a cheep replacement that will not last in a work truck. I just checked, and its an option, but not the one Peter will probably try and sell you. If you also check there cite they advertise OEM replacement Sachs and Luk Clutches. They also discount TDR members.



Like most, I will stick up for SBC. I've only bought one clutch from them, and it worked exactly like they said it would. Every time I called Peter from before the sale to after the install when I was having troubles, he called me back very shortly after leaving a message. I despise spending my money twice, and will spend a little extra in the front to get something I won't have problems with. SBC has not let me down. Now, for your truck, do you need a full on SBC? Nope, the stocker will work fine, the Rally would probably work, but I won't put a smaller clutch in any truck, then what came factory.



Good luck Mr Leonard. Will you be coming up to SOP#5??



Michael