Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Another Cracked 53 Block errrr

[mediccummin]

YES Dave I was out, DID you get my CALL today. Tag your it.

 

[Cummins724]

It weaps slowly at this point so I'm going to try and throw some stop leak of some sort in to see if it slow it down a little, my crack at this point only appears about 1" long, in the same area as most photos I have seen.

Don't use stop leak... . get some Dike! It washes back out with water & doesn't hurt other components like water pump, radiator etc. It will definately seal it off & it is activated by antifreeze, but washes out completely with straight water.

 

[dsherman]

YES Dave I was out, DID you get my CALL today. Tag your it.

Give me some dates for camping in Feb.

Thanks

David

 

[mediccummin]

Camping Dates are Thursday Feb 15th-Monday 19th. I'll talk at you before then for directions etc if your interested, gotta milk the truck until then.

 

[dsherman]

Camping Dates are Thursday Feb 15th-Monday 19th. I'll talk at you before then for directions etc if your interested, gotta milk the truck until then.

Ok,

So how is the truck

Talk at you soon Oo.

David

 

[mediccummin]

Now update, CarGo metallic glass etc block sealant did not work, Bars Leak rad block sealant slowed it but did not work. Looking for DIKE. Just wanting to slow it down for now, for camp trip as you can see. The crack did grow slightly, more like weep holes with bubbling block paint. My friend who is a mech and owns his shop will do the work, with my help, I insisted, I will probably purchase a brand new block. And while I'm in there do a cam change.

Any suggestions on a brand new block source, any suggestions on what cam to go with streetable yet towable. And thanks again for all the suggestions. I attempted the phone # to cummins but no response. My dealers wont give me the time of day and Cummins Cal Ventura state they never heard of such a block number, My @$$, they also did not know where to hook up a code reader when I dropped my truck off once to have them checked, return to p/u and was told there was no place to hook up scanner, oh well whole other story.

Anyway any more suggestions would be great. Cummins724 you have a PM>

 

[Cummins724]

Just for the record..... Dike is the only stop leak that works. Atleast on my truck it did... . I know for sure it is a good product & is used in heavy equipment daily when such cracks happen. As far as the block..... I have a friend who sells on ebay & usually sells engines in pieces. His name is redlinear... . check out ebay. He is a good guy & blocks usually sell for $300-400 in most cases. You can usually buy a complete engine from a yard before buying a block from cummins. Check out www.cherry-auto.com. They should have a complete engine & best of all... . you pick the warranty. Shipping is not to expensive either, but make sure to ask if it is a 53 block.

 

[Cummins724]

Found a engine [rebuildable] on ebay..... item #300074259671. If you bought it... . you can sell the turbo, exhaust manifold, rebuildable injection pump, valve cover, head etc. & get your money back. Just trying to help, but looks like a deal to me. You can also rebuild it & run your truck until it is done. Read the sellers feedback... . he has 100% feedback. Just my $. 02... . hope this helps.

 

[Sled Puller]

Lock & Stitch will work if done properly. However, it is expensive, difficult(we stuffed a dwarf into the engine compartment with drill and tap) and won't stop the crack from proceeding down the length of the block. Expect to use 1 $50 tap every 3 inches if you are careful. The process would be greatly simplified with the block on the work bench in front of you.



Dike will slow it up,but keep in mind, the top of the engine is trying to seperate from the lower half. Any sealer is on borrowed time in a towing situation with BOMBs.



Would we do L&S again? Yes, if the rest of the engine was worth keeping. Looking back after two VP-44s, the cracked block, the electric gremlins, its time for a 12 valve swap.