Another Dead Turbo Actuator

[RammerJam]

I have yet to see an actual burned out controller, they rarely do that. When the range of motion is not what the ECM expects it sets a DTC and goes to a default position instead of trying to set itself. Have seen several failures where the turbo was the problem, once the mechanical issue was fixed and the actuator reset done they worked fine.

EGR circulated back thru the intake can and will cause build up in the turbo because it makes the combustion event stoich richer on top of the stoich rich programming. Raise the cylinder temps by removing the EGR and that propagates to the turbo and DP leaving more soot to collect in the rest of the exhaust system as the exhaust cools.

I don't see how removing the EGR can raise the cylinder temps in and of itself.

Since the recirculated exhaust gas pollutes the combustion mixture and causes it to be less efficient (exhaust gases displacing oxygen doesn't sound like a winner to me), it would seem that all you'd have to do is send less fuel to the chamber in order to keep the combustion chamber cooler (lift foot off of pedal).

IOW, I see the exhaust gases being sent back to the combustion chamber as a net negative; making the combustion event far less efficient and sending more soot and ash through the exhaust system.

'Work' generates heat. Heat is work, energy is heat, heat is energy. Less work, less heat, lousy combustion, less heat, less work. Better combustion efficiency, more work, more heat, more efficiency.

simple physics

But that's just me and I'm often wrong about things like this. I just don't see how dumping exhaust gases into a combustion chamber is a good thing

 

[RammerJam]

EGR delete only means that there is no exhaust gasses recirculated back to the intake manifold, wouldn't have any affect on the turbo soot buildup.
And, the clean tailpipe you used to have was because the DPF was catching the soot and regeneration was burning it up, now that you deleted there is nothing to catch the soot, hence the dirty tailpipe and polluted air you add to.
And, all of that soot travels through the turbo anyway, deleted or not.

Doesn't all air to the combustion chamber have to go through the Turbo first???

And wouldn't recirculated exhaust be a lot dirtier than air from the atmosphere?

I'm not saying I know what I'm talking about on any of this stuff because -- I don't.

As to the polluted air? Happy to do my part since all life on Earth is based on carbon.

 

[Newsa]

I don't see how removing the EGR can raise the cylinder temps in and of itself.

Since the recirculated exhaust gas pollutes the combustion mixture and causes it to be less efficient

EGR is there to burn unburned or partially/incompletely burned hydrocarbons. EGR is also designed to change the stoichiometric O2/HC mix to cause the cylinder to not burn as hot to reduce NOx. So, yes EGR causes reduced cylinder temps. That is part of its function in reducing NOx.

 

[cerberusiam]

EGR gasses are injected into the system at the intake so it does not go thru the turbo.

Cannot just remove fuel to cut emissions, that reduces the power output. Less fuel equals less heat equals less work equal less power. The design is to burn the same, or more fuel, to create the same power output while keeping the cylinder temps down to minimize NOX formation. That is done with multiple injection events and EGR that never completely burns all the fuel creating a stoich rich event.

 

[Newsa]

EGR gasses are injected into the system at the intake so it does not go thru the turbo.

Cannot just remove fuel to cut emissions, that reduces the power output. Less fuel equals less heat equals less work equal less power. The design is to burn the same, or more fuel, to create the same power output while keeping the cylinder temps down to minimize NOX formation. That is done with multiple injection events and EGR that never completely burns all the fuel creating a stoich rich event.

I am wondering if my 660 ft lb (reduced torque) Cummins will have less of an issue with gummed up and fuel-covered grid heaters? But I suspect that the torque management has less of an effect on the grid heater condition than how the truck is driven? I really don't know how much EGR is called for in the programming of these different torque-rated engines. I do know EGR is no friend of the grid heater. The recirculated gasses are the source of fuel-covered grid heater problems. Correct me if I'm mistaken, since the fuel is injected to the cylinders, the only source of grid heater gumming is the EGR through the intake. I don't see the purpose for EGR to open during idle and low load and I think that programming should be modified. I do see the EGR helping to warm the engine on cold start. But I don't like that either.

 

[RammerJam]

Inventor of the EGR --

#ad

 

[Cummins12V98]

Hey guys and gals my friend has a 13 6sp manual DRW with around 130k that he LOVES. On his way home to NW WA his check engine light came on. Stopped for a rest and then took off and it was very un responsive. He hit the accelerator hard and it took off and the light cleared and it started running good again. He said the light has come on and off a coupe times but still is running good. He took it to O Riley's and the reader said U010C. He did not have them clear it.

Ideas/suggestions please.

 

[TimothyLong]

Hey guys and gals my friend has a 13 6sp manual DRW with around 130k that he LOVES. On his way home to NW WA his check engine light came on. Stopped for a rest and then took off and it was very un responsive. He hit the accelerator hard and it took off and the light cleared and it started running good again. He said the light has come on and off a coupe times but still is running good. He took it to O Riley's and the reader said U010C. He did not have them clear it.

Ideas/suggestions please.

This is the exact same thing that mine was doing (same DTC as well) before the turbo actuator failed completely. I was able to run it for about 6 weeks or so that way before it wouldn't work at all. Given my experience, he should start thinking about replacing his turbo actuator soon.

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Hey guys and gals my friend has a 13 6sp manual DRW with around 130k that he LOVES. On his way home to NW WA his check engine light came on. Stopped for a rest and then took off and it was very un responsive. He hit the accelerator hard and it took off and the light cleared and it started running good again. He said the light has come on and off a coupe times but still is running good. He took it to O Riley's and the reader said U010C. He did not have them clear it.

Ideas/suggestions please.

Exact same as mine as well. I bought the truck with a dead actuator and U010C code. Drove it that way for a month or two until I was able to get time to replace.
I went with a rebuild service first time - mistake. It only lasted a few months, went with genuine Cummins reman next time. Going on 1.5yr now no issues.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Thanks guys. Based on what I have read sounds like the actuator. O Riley's said bad module, actuator, turbo bearings or loose wire.

My Son replaced his with City Diesel and no issues so far and several months. I looked and they are backordered on their site and Geno's.

Cummins ReMan the way to go or ??? Please give links to what is the best.

Any other thoughts?

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Thanks guys. Based on what I have read sounds like the actuator. O Riley's said bad module, actuator, turbo bearings or loose wire.

My Son replaced his with City Diesel and no issues so far and several months. I looked and they are backordered on their site and Geno's.

Cummins ReMan the way to go or ??? Please give links to what is the best.

Any other thoughts?

I would wait, keep driving and see if City Diesel gets some back in stock soon. Call them and ask when they expect them back in stock.

Now, your friend could pull his actuator and check the movement of the VGT collar, see if it is moving completely free, if not he may need to just do the whole turbo.

 

[RammerJam]

Thanks guys. Based on what I have read sounds like the actuator. O Riley's said bad module, actuator, turbo bearings or loose wire.

My Son replaced his with City Diesel and no issues so far and several months. I looked and they are backordered on their site and Geno's.

Cummins ReMan the way to go or ??? Please give links to what is the best.

Any other thoughts?

I think, from what I've read, that you have to take it to a Dealer to get it programmed if you use anything other than the City Diesel Actuator.

 

[kthaxton]

I'm using a Cummins reman that I paid 300-somthing bucks for. It's been on a year or so no problems. I calibrated it with Alpha.

 

[TimothyLong]

Thanks guys. Based on what I have read sounds like the actuator. O Riley's said bad module, actuator, turbo bearings or loose wire.

My Son replaced his with City Diesel and no issues so far and several months. I looked and they are backordered on their site and Geno's.

Cummins ReMan the way to go or ??? Please give links to what is the best.

Any other thoughts?

The City Diesel actuator is the way to go, but I see now they're on backorder until April. I replaced mine with a new Cummins actuator as I was able to get it for a steal... almost literally, but I've seen new Cummins actuators with a 1 year warranty on Amazon for about the same price as the City Diesel actuator. The Cummins actuator will have to be calibrated, but you can do that yourself with the AlfaOBD phone app.

 

[RammerJam]

The City Diesel actuator is the way to go, but I see now they're on backorder until April. I replaced mine with a new Cummins actuator as I was able to get it for a steal... almost literally, but I've seen new Cummins actuators with a 1 year warranty on Amazon for about the same price as the City Diesel actuator. The Cummins actuator will have to be calibrated, but you can do that yourself with the AlfaOBD phone app.

Then the City Diesel Actuator is likely machined overseas. The reason I suspect it is, is that they won't ship until they have enough to make it worthwhile. They have to fill a Ship's Container a lot of times. Just the actuators won't do that (I think) so they may be waiting for something else to ship with them. And the container is likely going directly to Geno's. If it were to be taken as delivered in California (which would likely allow for partial shipments), there would be quite an upcharge as a rule. Taxes, Duties, mark-up, etc. It's better to 'direct-buy' whenever possible. Usually means China.

If they were made in the US, they'd ship them as they were completed. One, 5, 10, 20 at a time and you'd be on a list. But when they give a date certain.....??

I suspect the re-manned Cummins Actuators are done nearby, probabaly Mexico.

Just thinking out loud

 

[TimothyLong]

Then the City Diesel Actuator is likely machined overseas. The reason I suspect it is, is that they won't ship until they have enough to make it worthwhile. They have to fill a Ship's Container a lot of times. Just the actuators won't do that (I think) so they may be waiting for something else to ship with them. And the container is likely going directly to Geno's. If it were to be taken as delivered in California (which would likely allow for partial shipments), there would be quite an upcharge as a rule. Taxes, Duties, mark-up, etc. It's better to 'direct-buy' whenever possible. Usually means China.

If they were made in the US, they'd ship them as they were completed. One, 5, 10, 20 at a time and you'd be on a list. But when they give a date certain.....??

I suspect the re-manned Cummins Actuators are done nearby, probabaly Mexico.

Just thinking out loud

Can't disagree with you there. This is the 2nd time, that I know of, that the availability date has been pushed back. When my actuator finally gave up the ghost just before Christmas, they were saying mid-January. That was okay for me as I was then on vacation over the holidays and my wife had foot surgery just before the new year. So I was able to driver her truck in the mean time. Then I saw that the date got pushed back to the end of the month/beginning of February. I couldn't wait that long to get my truck back on the road and the Cummins actuator I did get was just by sheer dumb luck. Now that I see the City Diesel actuators are on backorder until the end of March/beginning of April. So what you said makes perfect sense to me.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Here's a brand new city diesel actuator on craigslist in central Texas, only $800, less than they cost from city diesel.
https://logan.craigslist.org/pts/d/afton-turbo-boost-actuator/7260866164.html

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Check with these guys and see if they have it in stock, website doesn't say they don't.
https://dudesdieselperformance.com/...aded-billet-turbo-actuator-cm-actkit2013.html

 

[Ozymandias]

I think, from what I've read, that you have to take it to a Dealer to get it programmed if you use anything other than the City Diesel Actuator.

Nope, with Alfa you can do that yourself and many other cool things. Stationary regen for example..

 

[Axel]

My Son called city diesel early January. Then they put him on a list. They called mid January and shipped it right away. I would give them a call and find out. They where very honest and right on time or actually earlier since then the website said end of January for availability .
It has been installed for 2 weeks and so far so good.