Another lift pump going south

[RustyTRanch]

Well I guess I am getting close

At 5000 miles it read 13-14psi at 60mph

now I am at 22,580 miles it reads9-10psi at 60mph

The lowest it has been is 7psi.



My question is has this been the way most of the pumps die?



If I go back stock pump is there any new part numbers I should be aware of when I go to the dealer?



Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated



Thank you

mike

 

[Lurch]

Is your filter clean? Failing pumps seems to go fairly quickly. Just a thought.



Lurch

 

[tobaccogrower]

beware of mopar!!!

if you do need a pump don't go to dodge!!Dodge lift pump:$400. 00, Cummins lift pump:$130. 00,Summit lift pump:$70. 00-$90. 00(i think). i'm sure on the first two. shop around!... james... .

 

[Cliffman]

You should order your pump ASAP from Cummins. It takes around 5 days to get if your lucky. My lift pump went down slowly also. Just before it died it was reading 6psi at 70 mph. but when I rolled into it heavy I got a quick 00psi and back up to 4psi. When my pump died I was refueling so I had a full tank. The gauge read 00 psi and if I gave it heavy throttle the gauge read -2 or 3. What I did'nt realize is that the truck would still run fairly well without the lift pump Which I was very thankful for I was able to drive to my son in laws shop and it took about 2 hours to R&R. Good luck

 

[Ramafid]

I just bought a new lift pump from Cummins yesterday. The part number was 3990105. The date of manufacture was 5-18-01 so it should be a good number. I plan on moving the pump back to the fuel tank so hopefully this will be the last pump I'll have to buy. The price was $139. 00 .

 

[John Berger]

I'm getting a new lift pump tonight. I have not had any problems, but I want to be prepared. Price - 139. 00, P/N - 3990105 for the pump, P/N - 4025182 for the wiring harness.

 

[24V-DSL]

Nuts !

I thought the risk of pump failure for me was diminished since there had been so many "revisions", and most of the posts seem to come from prior 01 model owners.



So, like John Berger, I'm ordering one. Just talked with mother Cummins today and found that according to my engine serial number, that the pump on my engine has already been superceded by PN 3990105 you guys have mentioned.



I don't want to go to guage monitoring, so what are the most common symptoms that the pump is taking a dump?



thanks.....

 

[csutton7]

24-DSL--without the guage you may not be able to tell if your pump is dieing or dead--Ask Steve St. Laurent, I think he ran around on a bad pump for quite awhile-thank God for him his VP44 didn't burn up also---now back to the question--small stutters or hiccups when accellerating or cruising and hard starting are the most common signs that the ol' pump is going south--guages are the best, no doubt, but if you aren't gonna get 'em just stay in tune with your truck and if it starts doing something odd then check the fuel pressure----anyone got something else to add---chris

 

[Briar Hopper]

I've had two lift pumps fail on my 2001. The first one had failed before I even got my fuel pressure gauge installed.

If you're not going to install gauges, I'd at least make up a test rig, out of a refrigerant hose, and generic pressure gauge or boost gauge, like I've done, to test friend's trucks. The hose has a Schraeder fitting at one end, and a 1/4 NPT fitting at the other, is 5' long, can duct tape it to windshield for testing while driving.

Or buy the one mentioned in the big service manual for our trucks.

Myself, I prefer to know, at ALL times, what my fuel pressure is.

 

[DRR-24V]

I could be wrong, but isn't the lift pump covered under the emmissions warrantee? (100,000 miles)

 

[Briar Hopper]

Warranty? Yes, it's covered. But that doesn't get it fixed. It's next to impossible to convince the mechanics and service writers at the dealerships that the lift pump is, indeed, dead... not even showing them my installed AutoMeter gauge makes them understand. They believe that if the truck is still running, the pump is okay. I've tried two dealerships, and gave up, I simply don't have the time.

 

[RMikita]

My 98. 5 Dodge quit, but would start in the mornings, run fine until you shut it off, start again next morning etc. They replaced the injector pump. After reading some posts here I asked if they replaced the lift pump as well. They informed me they cannot replace both the injector pump and the lift pump at the same time, strict orders from DC. Also 2 days after this injection pump replacement, truck will act like it's missing while idling, until you tap on the pedal, then will idle fine. This has happened a few times now, tapping the pedal will either cause it, or it can stop it. I live on a remote road in NW Montana. There are 3 24 valve pickups here. All three have died in the same week, 2 are 2000's mine a 98. 5. One guy has been able to start his by roll starting it, but now it's pretty much lost all power. He's not taking it to any dealer, he wants to put his old 1994 12 valve cummins in his 2000 as he has 280,000 miles on it and never any trouble like this crap.

 

[MidwestMotorman]

warrantees...

The warranty depends upon the emissions type and the GVWR.



California emissions have 7/75 coverage. Federal emissions is 5/50. Vehicles with over a 10k GVWR (M as the fourth VIN digit) also have 5/50. If you are neither, you are SOL after 3/36. If you are unsure, call the 800 hotline in the warranty booklet and ask with your VIN#.



A good pump should hum for about a third of a second when the key is turned to IGN. Mine was running for about a second and a half before it finally quit.

 

[TomB]

I also recently replaced my lift pump with P/N 3990105. Several posts here stated that you also need to order a new wiring harness P/N 4025182 and a new gasket. On Y2K models up the stock wiring harness is the same and fits the new pump. The banjo gaskets can be re-used and only the 12 valve pumps use a base gasket. Just thought I would clarify some of these points for those of you planning to replace your pumps. New pump has 15 PSI at idle and 13 at cruise. WOT is 9-10 psi.

 

[tjpatte]

Just found some info that might help the folks with the Schrader valve thing on their Diesels and guage mounting. Folks had posted about not wanting to hang the heavy resistor type sender on the line due to vibration and weight. Well I sent for a catalog from Westach and they have a sender that is considerable smaller and more accurate. However, the guage price goes from about $65. 00 to $104. 00. The one from Geno's has the resistive (heavier sender) and maybe it wouldn't be a problem with the smaller sender. Maybe Geno's should also offer the other sender??



Briar Hopper, which Autometer do you have? I love the Ultra-light but have problems with the price, but want a guage I can see easily(mine will be down by the shifter hump.



Take it easy.



Tom

Lakeside CA

 

[Briar Hopper]

Tom, to answer your question,I have the ProComp UltraLites, EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, all mounted on the A-pillar. Buddy of mine from Tennessee has his UltraLite fuel pressure gauge mounted down in the cubbyhole in front of the shifter. It is still easy to read, even at night.

One of the last posts in this thread, somebody mentioned needing a smaller or more durable sending unit being needed to mount directly to the test port fitting on the VP44 ... ... NO,NO,NO !!!!! As I've stated in MANY previous posts, and will state here AGAIN it is a very simple matter to mount the sending unit remotely (away from, at a distance from) from the VP44 pump, simply by using the right kind of hose and fittings.

One only needs to search for the relevant posts on this topic, there are many. Steve St. Laurent has pictures of his installation posted in the forums...

Advanced Diesel Technology of Pittsburgh,PA is selling a fuel pressure gauge & installation kit, in fact I believe they may have more than one option available. Check them out at www.smokindiesel.com Both Andy and Doug are TDR members, and will definitely help you with this, and any other performance setup you may need... .