Another Lift Pump Picture (sigh!)

[RADdodge]

A Pusher Pump Installation Suggestion

I know this topic is being beat to death, but the interest seems high and if there are any out there that are as anal as I am, you might be interested in some details on our setup. I've posted this once as a reply to another thread.



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The picture: Fuel shutoff valve is shown closed to highlight valve. Racor 30 micron filter with heater, water in fuel and vacuum sensors. Tubing is 3/8" SS with SS or brass fittings. Check valve assembly allows engine lift pump to draw fuel from Racor filter with pusher pump disabled. Pusher pump is energized from terminal 87A of the "Starter Relay," i. e. when starter is engaged, pump is off, when ignition key is in "Run," pusher pump is energized through a rocker switch.



Top View:



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Top view of the assembly consisting of a Racor 645 fuel filter and a Carter pump with "Quiet Pack" (1814-U).



I'm energizing the Carter Pusher Pump off of terminal 87A of the "Starter Relay" in the PDC (Power Distribution Center). I left the original lift pump powered from the ECM. What this does (besides being a convenient use of a 20A circuit Dodge supplies that goes to waste except for starting) is when starting, the pusher pump is off, allowing the lift pump to draw fuel from the aft fuel filter (pictured) through the check valve at the 25% duty cycle as intended by Dodge/Bosh. When the ignition key is returned to "Run" position, the pusher pump engages. There is an in cab switch so the pump can be disabled. There is also a cool setup of the Racor filter if you want to heat the fuel, have a WIF (Water In Fuel) sensor and a vacuum sensor to monitor whether or not you aft fuel filter is in need of replacement.



Sorry this was a long post with the pictures. Please don't flame me. This was done last summer from all the suggestions posted on this board with a few extra ideas added.

 

[RADdodge]

FYI

Just an FYI - When I was taking a picture of the pusher pump setup, I left the shut-off vlave closed. I forgot, dumb! I was troubleshooting the SPA fuel pressure guage this morning and now it was showing a constant -12psi. (it was flashing negative numbers before - it turns out I didn't have a good ground - about 2 ohms). Anyway the truck ran for maybe 20 - 30 seconds before it started to stumble. So it looks like the injection pump pulls about 12psi. SPA guage is a quality product.



I was looking at the manual and thought this quote was priceless - "The fuel volume of the transfer pump will always provide more fuel that the fuel injection pump requires. " We wish! It also notes that psi over 14 will cause the overflow valve in the injection pump to divert excess fuel to the return fuel line. My pusher pump increases idle psi from 11 to 17psi at idle.

 

[EricBu12]

Nice setup!

Is it really necessary to do all that?

I have heard of others getting a Mallory 4140M and using that instead of the OEM pump and use it bck by the tank. Using the hot wire of the OEM pump for a trigger for a relay for the mallory. I was planning on doing this. is this ok as well?

 

[RADdodge]

That would work fine. There are others that have done that. What we are all after is more reliability.



One of the solutions I work on all the time is "no single point of failure. " That is the goal on fail safe systems. Obviously it is expensive and when applied to our trucks is not possible. But since the lift pump has seemed to caused so much grief with others, some members (Steve St. Laurent for example) proposed several solutions. I choose the pusher pump solution. Yes, what I've done is more complicated that it needs to be (for me that's a given). Once I get a check valve to circumvent the engine lift pump, I will have a lift pump system that only has the fuel lines as a single point of failure (besides the fuel and the electrical of course). Anyway, my goal is that a failed lift pump won't ruin any of my trips.

 

[HeberRam]

WOW!

Cool set-up... I don't think there is a fail safe system... I've installed a pusher pump near the tank and use the the OEM lift pump. Should either pump fail, the other one will get me home. . As I have an in cab fuel pressure gauge I can monitor fuel pressures while driving. I don't see the need for a check valve? What does that do? The fuel should not drain back to the tank?

 

[Snow man]

Radodge,nice setup,where did you get the one way check valve?Id like to be able to run without the booster pump. Will the valve flow enough fuel ?have you disbled the booster pump intentionally and tried it yet?

 

[RADdodge]

Reply...

HeberRam



The check valve allows the fuel to bypass the pusher pump completely. I want to add one to the lift pump as well, but haven't gotten around to it. That way if the lift pump goes out, the check valve would by-pass it and feed the injector pump from the pusher pump. I think that should eliminate the emergency situation when (not if) the lift pump fails. Your right, there is no fail safe method. My objective was to keep on trucking if I did lose a pump and not ruin a trip. Then I could replace the pump at my convenience, not when it fails (on the road!). Also, I feel a little safer being a long way from home knowing what the track record of these lift pumps are and feel more comfortable that the injector pump won't get ruined from a lack of lubrication from insufficient fuel. I think a 30 micron filter before the pusher pump is very important. BTW, I'm not suggesting anyone do what I've done, I think it's a bit much for most, but I thought the execution had merit. The basic idea is from the members of the TDR! Got'ta love this site!



Snow man



Yes I have tested it. In fact, at first I thought there was too much pressure (up to 20psi at the input of the injector pump with the pusher pump at idle). I ran it over three thousand miles with the pusher pump off and cannot see any drop in pressure from what it measured before the check valve was installed. The check valve is a Racor product, part number RK30770. The pressure required to cause the check valve to open is 0. 5psi. It's for 3/8 inch line.

 

[RACE427]

Need part numbers

Hey RAD, How about posting all of the part numbers for your pusher pump setup with a ball park figure on pricing?? I travel to some pretty remote places where there are no auto/truck parts houses to speak of. Never, ever want to get stuck up there!! Your back up system looks like the way to go!!! I like your setup, nice and neat, clean looking!!!! Thanks, Tony G

 

[Snow man]

Radodge,thank you for the part # ,why do you think thr 30 micron pre filter is so important. The in tank sock does the job for the stock lift pump, I dont see the benefit of the booster pump having something else,and more distance to pull thru. Im going to get a check valve,as sson as i can find someone who sells it here.

 

[RADdodge]

Sorry, I don't know how to make my replies shorter!

TGreco -



I will post the part numbers and the approximate cost (I think, have to review the rules on posting costs). I'll try to get that together this weekend. Racor has a PDF file of the catalog that has this stuff in it. Like I said, what I did is without doubt - overkill, but I'm used to indulging in over engineering! Just ask my employer!



Snow man -



I hear you man. I wondered if the filter issue was important. There are a number of posts that hint at it - such as pump manufactures that insist that a pre filter be used before their pump. My first reaction to the lift pump issue was that debris in the fuel was messing up the valve seating causing the loss of pressure. However, time has not substantiated my gut feeling. However, check out Bigsaint's post of 8/29/01. I don't remember the thread (search for it) but he said that - "Mallory stated cavitation due to debris was the cause" of his Mallory pump failure. He has a sediment trap. Anyway, after reading hundreds of posts up to that time on lift pump failures, a fuel filter was for me. St. Laurent (I believe it was Steve that had the fuel problem) had to change out his fuel filter (stock) several times to purge the effects of a bad load of fuel. A primary filter could prevent a lot of problems. It's easier to change (except that you have to get on the ground to change it), it can heat the fuel right out of the tank making it easier on the pump, it can detect water in the fuel before it contaminates the primary filter and the primary filter ought to last longer. Anyway, it's a guarantee that it won't be debris in the fuel that will kill your pump (I couldn't figure the engineering involved that would put the filter after the lift pump. Maybe they were concerned that the lift pump would add to the contaminates that feed the injection pump hence the injectors?)



To several members that wanted to know the details of the electrical setup



I've included a wiring diagram of what I did, and after thinking about it some more, what I would do now (I'd eliminate the extra relay triggered off of the Lift Pump power from the ECM).



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p. s. The switch in the Cab is off in the center position.



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I would also like to make a request of anyone that may know the vendor that supplies the PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood for Dodge. I've looked for the connectors Dodge used and can not find them. I don't have a clue who makes them. And if I (WE) did, we could all add some circuits very easily to power some trick stuff in our trucks. Help me (us) out here if anyone can. Thanks!!!

 

[RADdodge]

Here are the parts I used. If anyone wants to know the prices I paid, you can send me a message.



152-875 - Carter Pusher Fuel Pump (not real sure on part number, call Enterprise)

1814-U - Carter Quiet Pack for Carter Pusher Fuel Pump

645RP12-30 - Racor 600 Series Racor Fuel Filter w/Water Sensor & Heater

RK11-1570 - Racor 2" Gauge Water Detector & Filter Restriction Module

RK30770 - Racor 3/8" Check Valve

22628 - Racor Bowl Removal Tool

R45P - Racor Replacement Service Element 30 Micron



Notes: Carter Pusher Fuel Pump part number is uncertain, purchased from Enterprise - (740)246-6329.

Racor products were purchased from Diesel Injection Service, TX - (800)658-9355

Racor Fuel Filter is available without WIF Sensor and Heater (options R, P12)

The Racor Gauge only includes the Filter Restriction Module (7hg Vacuum Sensor).

The Water In Fuel (WIF) sensor should be ordered with the Filter Unit if the Gauge is used.

Racor Fuel Filters can change GPH. The 45 filter is 45 GPH, 60 - 60GPH, 90 - 90GPH

Larger GPH filters are longer (taller) with the 45 being the shortest.

The head unit is the same for all 600 series models and will fit the R60P or R90P if fuel requirements dictate.

45GPH is suppose to be good up to 500hp (not absolute, more clarification needed on our needs)

I mounted the contraption on aluminum stock, about $20 as I recall. Then there were fittings and 3/8 SS tubing, etc. , I spent a little over $500. (edit That is with the gauge and other extras such as spare filters, etc. , the pump and fuel filter were just under $300. 00. ) I can be done for less and with less hassle, but I didn't want to skimp knowing that I wouldn't want to do it over again.



Here is the PDF Catalog on the Highway Racor Products. The 600 Series starts on page 23 and the Gauges and other accessories are at the end. I'd advise to download it and then browse it, otherwise it will be slow.

Racor Link: https://www.parker.com/racor/pdf/Section01.pdf



I don't want to offend anyone that dislikes Fords, but here is a link that helped the idea process, especially on the Racor filter:

http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/leefilt.htm

 

[EricBu12]

RAD dodge,

I am going to make the same setup as you have on the pusher pump setup. I printed all the pics and the wireing diagram you have posted, I was wondering, do you have the fuel heater on a switched power or is it on a switch in the cab to use as needed?

Can you E-mail me wireing for that?



Also, i am trying to figure out the flow on the setup you have. on the pic looking from the top view, does the fuel go in the port on the left from the valve you put in, straight through the filter to the pump then out? and the one-way valve goes only toward the "T"? Thats so the pump will be off for starting but in running form, it will be going only straight through right?



Also, is the silver sensor on top the vacuum sensor?

For the WIF sensor, you got a 2"guage for it and the vaccum module? Is that mounted in cab?



Where did you get the curved pipe and fittings? Part #'s?

It looks like a cool setup, and I want to make it like yours.



I see on the web site for the place where you got your filter/heater that all I can find is a 445R which looks like yours. is that the same one?



Thanks for all your info on this. I plan to do this before I go to MM02 in pahrump and I have 20K on my truck already. Getting the guage and replacement pod right now on order.

 

[EricBu12]

RAd dodge,

I am going on the road today, send your E-mails for this week to my cel phone E-mail in my sig below. Thanks. I can reply on it as well. Don't you just love technology?

Eric

 

[RADdodge]

Eric -



The heater for the Racor fuel filter draws 200 watts (16. 6 Amp) and the stock fuel filter heater draws 300 watts (25A). The total current draw is 41. 6A. The Fuel Heater circuit is protected by a 40A fuse. I would recommend soldering a 12AWG wire as close to terminal 87 on the Fuel Heater Relay as possible (12RD/BK = 12AWG Red/Black wire to/from the stock heater). I had a relay connector so I removed the stock connector and crimped and soldered the two 12 gauge wires to the replacement one. I replaced the 40A fuse with a 50A fuse. The only place I could find the fuse is Chrysler. I don't use a switch to manually control the heater. I thought about it, but decided to let the heater do it's thing automatically. Here is the diagram.



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I think you have the fuel flow figured out correctly. The Racor head unit has seven 3/8 inch NTP fuel ports, three "IN" and four "OUT". The fuel flow is: tank outlet to shut-off valve (compression fittings) to inlet on filter head (front left side). Outlet (back left side) to the line that goes to the check valve and then into the "T" after the fuel pump. Another outlet (back right) is used to feed the pump. I isolated the pump lines with 3/8 inch hose to minimize the fuel pump vibrations (noise). I used SS 3/8 NTP compression fittings for the fuel line to the head unit. (Brass is much cheaper!) I had to hunt at several industrial supply houses to find the kind of fuel shutoff valve that was small enough. The stainless steel line is 3/8" tubing and was about $2. 25 a foot. Again, your best bet is an industrial supply or pump shop.



At the top of the fuel filter head is an inlet port that was used for the vacuum sensor that comes with the Racor filter gauge. The gauge has two LED's and a buzzer. Either the Water In Fuel (WIF) sensor or the Fuel Restriction sensor activates the buzzer for a few seconds (which then quits buzzing) leaving the LED illuminated. The indications on the gauge are 'Drain' and 'Change Filter. ' After you either drain the fuel filter for water or change the fuel filter, the LED will reset. The instructions that come with the gauge explain the details very well.



The curved pipe is the SS tubing bent with a 3/8 inch tubing bender. Various tool houses will have tubing benders.



When I purchased the Racor filter from Diesel Injection Service, it had to be special ordered from Racor. You need to call them. The unit is a 600 series not 400. As I remember, the 445 is a little more expensive because it has a manual priming pump which you don't need. They usually don't stock the models with both WIF and Heaters. You could add that later if you didn't want to hassle with the extra connections. The heater element and WIF sensor are in the fuel bowl, which is replaceable. One of the reasons I mounted the whole setup on a piece of (3 1/2 x 1 x 12 inch) aluminum stock was to make it easier to work with assembling and setting up the unit.



Hope to see your setup at May Maddness!

 

[EricBu12]

thanks!

I see you made up parts as you went along, I don't know if I will have the time to do all that, I will try and see Where I can get all that.

What size is the valve? did you have to make adapters to fit it?



On the mounting plate, did you drill the frame to bolt on, etc. ?



So the 50 amp fuse for the heater(s) is an upgrade for the one, only?



I think I need to replace my stock pump also, it don't make as much power on the bluechip box as it used to... getting the guages right now to see what the pressure is.



Thanks for all your info.

Eric