Another set of twins.

[whistleman]

Good Info

Thanks for the info JT.

 

[JTroiano]

Update, I was a little unhappy because of the lag. I usually have my Comp box off and it just seemed to slow. I talked to Mark K(thanks Mark) and he said that I am running the least amount of fuel for someone running twins. So I've been running on 3x3 and it is almost as quick as the single stock turbo with the Comp off. I'm liking them more and more. I hit 59psi the other day on 4x3 and am still waiting for my new filter.

I had a hard time with the wastegate but I think I have it figured out. Jim F said he had to run boost to the vacuum side of his wastegate to keep it shut. I couldn't even tell if it was opened or closed so here is what I did.

#ad


The light on the right is for low fuel pressure and the one on the left tells me when the wastegate is open and will later be used for low oil pressure.

#ad


The copper wire is the ground for the idiot light and when the wastegate opens it contacts the washer and the light comes on.

#ad


I used two homemade boost controllers to regulate pressure between the top and bottom of the wastegate. Both have bleed holes and after I get it dialed I will put an adjustable bleed in the cab so I can turn my boost up or down when needed. I also have my new pipe made. Before I installed it I checked boost from the large turbo and it maxs out at about 15psi. I am liking it better and better. I get to tow my boat next weekend for some winter Steelhead. Of course I have to play with the power on the way to the fishing hole.

Jon T

 

[JTroiano]

ITS DEAD!!! It was spinning the tires in third gear at about 60psi and when I let off the throttle it stumbled and then was OK then I had to hit it again and it was just roasting the 315(34") tires and then when I let off the pedal it stalled and know it just cranks. It has fuel pressure and no codes. Any body have any ideas? I think maybe I toasted the pump. I got a 911 P-Pump sittin the the bench but am out of $ and don't want to use the credit card to install it. Please give me your thoughts.

Jon T

 

[Idaho CTD]

Try bleeding the fuel lines. If it isn't that then you can at least tell if the VP has pressure. How about a headgasket? Have you o-ringed? Just some options



Nathan

 

[JTroiano]

HELP, I loosened the first injector line and I have no fuel when cranking. I do have fuel going into the VP, the tach is also showing RPM's so I know the crank sensor is working. I was pushing it pretty hard last night and I think I toasted the VP-44. It went over redline a couple of times so maybe the pump couldn't handle it. I need to know were pin 6&7 are so I can make sure it isn't any thing else. Any help would be great. The head gasket still looks in good shape.



I also need to start getting the info on what I need to install a P-Pump?



Can I use the crank pulley and cover from the old truck with its sensor or do I need to have the cover machined? I have a friend at a machine shop so if it is pretty easy I could do that.



Can I make my own lines or were is the cheapest place to get them?



Can I use my exsisting pumps? They put out about 25psi at idle.



Can you put the governor kit and plate in after the P-pump is in the truck or does it have to come out again to install all this stuff?



I'm out of money so the cheapest way to get the truck running for now is what I need.



Any help would be great. Thanks.



Jon T

 

[Idaho CTD]

Jon,



If I was going to do a P-pump conv. I would contact Al or Piers at PDR for help. I do know you have to grind part of the casting off of the intake to make it fit. The cheapest option might be here:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33553&item=1876467178



I was thinking of bidding on it myself to have a spare but you need it more than I. If it goes for under 300 that would be the cheapest and easiest way to get it running.



Hope this helps

Nathan

 

[JTroiano]

Thanks Nathan, maybe I'll do that. For three hundred dollars I'm almost half way to having the P-Pump installed and a 99 VP44 was probably the worst year for reliability. But thanks for the thought.

Jon T

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Were did you get a price quote for the P-pump install, and I know that is just a pump install but how much pump do you want, remember mine is out of fuel..... FYI.



Jim

 

[jwilliams3]

I would say call Piers in your situation.



Also the cheapest way to fix this, is probably going to be buying a new VP44.



--Justin

 

[JTroiano]

A new vp44 is about 1,300 I think. I have the P-pump, just need to get the info on parts and stuff. The lines are any were from 350 to 450. I can get the pump checked and tuned locally for about 250. I think I had enough fuel from the vp I just don't trust it. My next step is to make sure it is bad and so I need to find out about those two pins 6 and 7??



Jim, I always want more fuel. I heard that you can bump the P-pump up to twice as much as the VP and then there is something about a valet switch. I think if I have to spend the money that I might as well put a better pump in.



Please keep the info comming, it help a lot.



Jon T



I still need the info on those pin locations and for sure which ones get the power and ground?



Thanks

 

[Idaho CTD]

I know this is kind of stating the obvious but did you try checking all your relays and fuses? You might try unhooking your box and see what that does as well. Blue chip sells a vp tester as well. I dont recall what they cost but I think it was around 40-50 bucks. That might give you a definate answer on the vp's condition.



Nathan

 

[Extreme1]

You'll need the front gearcase for the P-pump install. The covers might interchange but there is a mount for the sensor on the 12 valves that hangs off the mounting bolts for the cover. You have to either pull the cam out or pull the cam gear to change the gearcase.



Buy the lines, they are special, don't make your own. Piers probably has all the parts available, their prices are good and their tech advise is excellent. (There are others but I've only delt with PDR)



Another thought: is it possible that the timing slipped on the VP?

 

[HVAC]

Testing The VP44

Do you understand the procedure for testing the injection pump? I think that's the thing to do now. There is a fuel pump relay in the power dist center. It's triggered by the ign.

 

[KWIKKURT]

JTroiano



Is your truck still down? I just found this post. I have heard of people stalling out like you did and got it running again after bleeding the injectors. Anyway Call me @ 505-534-0434 and I will help you with the pin locations for testing your VP44. I am currently at my shop. If I miss your call Email Me. Or I will try to send my Cell# to your PM or Email. . Later Kurt Yardley

 

[T. Baker]

I'm not sure what sensor Extreeme1 is talking about (tach sensor?) but if you go with the P pump you will need no electricity at all to run except to crank the starter. You can put a pull cable for a stop and have a completely reliable all mechanical engine.

 

[JTroiano]

Update, I went to work and got the pin numbers for the VP. Pin 6 is the ground and pin 7 is the fuel pump relay out of the VP. Unplugged the harness and checked for ground and power and they were good. I checked the relay and it is working. When you pull the cover off and manually trigger it you can hear something in the VP, which meens its getting power. Had my wife crank the truck and it is working. All the times I've cranked the truck over the number 1 injector line has been loose and I don't even get a dribble. The VP is on the bench and I'm trying to get it apart but don't want to break anything. I pulled the top cover off and poored the fluid into a clean container and there was not metal and the fluid looked good. I can turn the front shaft and it turns easy and a little fluid squirts out of the injectoer lines.



Jon T

 

[JTroiano]

Update. I took the pump apart and didn't break anything other than a few scratches on pieces that don't matter. I didn't see anything wrong at all. I talked to KWIKKURT yesterday and he said that another person had the same problem after a hard run at the drag strip and they had to bleed the system for a long time and it started. So I put the pump back together and put it in the truck and after bleeding the lines (all loose) it started. I let it idle for a little while and then it smoothed out then I checked the gauges and had no oil pressure. :--) I checked the oil level and it was about a gallon low. Has anybody had this problem running high boost?



So what happened???? I have no idea. Did I let off the gas to quick and boost went in through the injectors? Did the fuel cavitate and then when I let off it filled the lines with air.

It is driving me crazy!!! Any body have any ideas??



The inside of a VP44 looks nice. It doesn't look all that weak, there is one small pin at the back of the pump that looks like it could brake. I think it is called the fuel valve.



I think I'm still going to research the P-pump. I just hope the oil consumption thing is not serious.



All the help was great.



Jon T



Let the Bombing continue!

 

[HVAC]

Vapor Locked

You just vapor locked it. It's nothing new. I've had it happen many times. This is why you test the VP44, to determine it's not the injection pump, meaning the problem is elsewhere. Everybody always thinks it's the pump right? You can see that with proper testing of the pump you move on to correctly diagnose the problem.

 

[JTroiano]

What do you meen, vapor locked? What causes it and why have I never heard of it in a diesel before? What can I do so it doesn't happen again?



Jon T

 

[HVAC]

Vapor Lock

JT, go to the Diesel Dynamics site and click on the videos link. Then scroll down to the may madness vids and look for "Nowel's truck stalls". Absolutly beautiful example of a stall due to vapor lock.



Now that is not me behind the wheel. It's my friend "Big Adam". He has had a hard time learning that you cannot side step the throttle pedal.