another transmission question

[Piersol]

My '96 auto trans will not shift from 1st to 2nd without letting almost completely off the gas pedal. This only happens once or twice after I first start out. After that it is fine. Any ideas?

 

[Macmc01]

I have a 95 and mine does fine up to 3rd gear then normily I have to let of before it will shift to 4th then tc lock up. Mine does it all most all the time.
I have insalled a new TPS and it did help the tc lock up drop off but it still doesn't help the shift.

You may need to adjust the shift cabe on yours. Maybe some one else has another Idea.

Mac

 

[JBoesl]

I have the same problems with my 96 auto, mainly from 3 to 4. I have asked lots transmission shops but no ansawer on why it happens.

 

[Jeff Burke]

All three of you may want to go to the Diesel Transmission Technology site and search for some answers there. JJP, yours may be as simple as the throttle linkage cable. The other two may have something more serious wrong with their trannys.

 

[Piersol]

How do you adjust the shift cable. Or how do you know if the shift cable needs adjusted. I took it to the dealer on Saturday just to ask if he knew, off hand, the problem and he said it sounds like seals are bad "put some transmission gunk from the auto parts store in" he said.

 

[Joe G.]

JJP,

This may not help, but this is how you adjust the cable.

You will need a 2" C-clamp. It can be done without it, but it's a real PITA. There are three cables to the throttle linkage. One from the pedal, one from the cruise control, and another from the transmission. The transmission cable is the lower one of the three. Before you do anything measure how far it is from the pointy end of the cable housing where the wire comes out to the black plastic block that the cable housing comes out of. If this doesn't help you will want to put it back like it was. The black plastic block is kind of cube shaped except that it has a button shaped bulge on the side away from you. This bulge is NOT the button. It is the housing for the button spring. The button is the flat side of the black bulge oposite the spring housing. This has to be pushed to release the cable housing so you can move it. That's what I use the C-clamp for. Use it to press and hold the button while you adjust the cable. Then hold the adjustment with one hand and release the C-clamp. Mess around with different settings and see what happens. If that doesn't help put it back where it was.

Actually, I think you need to go to NAPA and get a bottle of red LubeGard. Use that, not just some "transmission gunk".

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[DavidGardner]

Contact Bill Kondolay at DTT. Look for his advertisements and replys to past threads. Bill is the absolute guru on our transmissions.

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95 slt, reg cab, 2wd, auto, BD exhaust brake, primelok fuel filter relocator, K&N air filter, Cat sleeping in garage by fire, TST 230-605 fuel plate, Bill Kondolay modified trans, 100k plus miles still going strong "Who says six in a row don"t go?

 

[Jeff Burke]

Sounds like when you adjust the cable, you will want to make the distance you measured longer. When I talked to Bill at DTT, he said make moves of only about 1/16" or less. As far as the info you got from the transmission guy, I wouldn't put a lot of faith in most of them, the seals are more for the 2-3 shift, not the 1-2. Give Bill a call, you won't be sorry you did.

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'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor