anti lock light again

[Paychk]

Chris the 1477 ohms on the sensor is fine, is that at the disconnect next to the control module or at the sensor? Double-check the resistance at the module, which will verify all the wiring down to the sensor.



The code seven is trouble shot in the following way. Disconnect the electrical plug at the hydraulic control valve located on drivers side of frame near the rear axle. Check for continuity back to the control module, between the Light green wire with a tracer on it (color of tracer not specified) and the gray with white tracer wire, is the resistance less that 3 ohms? Yes = replace the control valve, no = next test.



Next test with the above connector still disconnected, disconnect battery, and disconnect the 14-pin connector at the RWAL control module. Check for resistance between pin 1 (light green wire with tracer) of the 14 pin connector and ground, is resistance above 20,000 ohms? Yes = replace control module, no = repair short to ground on light green wire with tracer.

 

[mazdarotary]

Hey guys,

I just got home from work,and the truck is making some nasty like grinding/rattling noise from the rear end. I only notice in 4th gear and 5th gear. It doesn't seem to be from the transmission,but I don't know. I am not getting any vibration from the shifter at all. It seems like the noise is coming from the rear of the truck. What could this be?rear end?driveshaft?Other?Help I can't be without the truck long.



Chris

 

[Greenleaf]

Your diff. may require some repair and could be the cause of all your problems.



Scott

 

[mazdarotary]

So does anyone know of a good place to get the parts to repair the differential?Is it something I should try to tackle on my own?Is it an expensive thing to have done by someone else?I need the truck back and runing by labor day weekend so we can go camping. Man this is bad timing with me leasing a new car that I wanted but really didn't need. I guess it is good I have it now so I can get back and forth to work. Any help would be appreciated. I live in Massachusetts,and the truck has 223k miles on it. I think it is the factory rear end as well.

 

[Philip]

I installed a new ring and pinion in Case500D's W350 a while back. I think he said total cost came out around $400. for parts. That was all new bearings and R&P. We used a NAPA R&P.



The last time I heard a price on a Model 70 rebuild by a shop it was around $1,500. That was parts and labor. If you have a FSM manual. Look threw it on the rearend section. You are the one that knows your mechanical abilities.



I normaly recommend having someone that has done one before there with a first timer.



"If" you caught it soon enough. You might get by with just a set of new bearings. Pull the cover and see what kind of damage has happened.

 

[mazdarotary]

Yesterday evening I got under the truck ,and removed the cover on the rear end. Guess what I found?Two rather large chunks of my pinion gear. I have pics,but don't know how to load them on this site. I guess I need to have the rearend rebuilt :{



Anyone know of a good place in the Massachusetts area?I don't feel comfortable doing it myself.

 

[JLEONARD]

Anyone know of a good place in the Massachusetts area?

You might try giving Scott a call at Mass Diesel... . if he doesn't do that I'm sure he can make some suggestions.

Good Luck.

Jay

 

[1stgen4evr]

Good place to get the axle repaired

You can do it. You will need a few tools that you probably don't now have. If you can take the cover off and see what is wrong, chances are good you can do the rest. Is there slack in the carrier? Is there slack in the pinion shaft. If no, you can replace the gears and put new bearings with the same shims and expect to get acceptable contact pattern. Your biggest challenge will be to get all the micro particles of metal out. If you don't clean them out, you may as well not rebuild the axle. Same goes if you have it built. You might also consider buying a complete axle and you can certainly change that out. That way you don't have to contend with the stinking mess of rear end lube, you don't have the cleanup issue and you won't need special tools.



Do you have any idea as to why the pinion has shed some teeth?



Read this: http://www.imajeep.com/axles/differential_repair.htm



Lots of good info there. Should you want to discuss more, PM and I will send my email address for greater detail.



James

 

[mazdarotary]

Hey guys,



A quick update. I had my Dana 70 re-built after I found a fe wteeth missing from the pinion gear. It cost me $465 for the labor,and I have a friend that works at a bearing shop so he got me th eparts at his cost of $400. Not bad I think for the amount of work that was done,and compared to the $1100-$1200 salvage yards wanted I think I got a better deal. The ABS light was still flashing after I picked it up,but I removed the #5 fuse for a few seconds to reset the code. It seems to have fixed the problem. I will tell you the truck seems tighter now as far as the driveline feels. I guess I had some slack in the driveline I never felt before. Thanks to all that helped.



Chris