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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Anti-Sieze

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) OD only works at 55mph + ???

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Heavy gray smoke

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I need some advice about using Anti-Seize compound on Exhaust bolt threads.



I was always lead to believe that if you lubricate threads, when you go to torque them its going to throw the torque value off.



I'm getting ready to install my ATS manifold and thinking about using Anti-seize on all bolts.



What say you??? Guys-----



thanks, Glen
 
I would use new lock washers and high temp anti-seize. Torque the bolts to specs. If you ever have to take the bolts out sometime down the road, you will be happy you used anti-seize. Make sure you use high temp anti-seize.
 
I haven't heard about this for anything but head bolts , but they recomend lubing after cleaning with threadchaser or tap , then use a moly lube and TQ. to a little high spec. , with reg. lube factory spec. , then finis h with a angle gauge.
So with that said , I'll run a tap through , and use the copper antiseize- higher temp than silver ,and TQ to factory spec.
 
gathomas said:
I need some advice about using Anti-Seize compound on Exhaust bolt threads.



I was always lead to believe that if you lubricate threads, when you go to torque them its going to throw the torque value off.



I'm getting ready to install my ATS manifold and thinking about using Anti-seize on all bolts.



What say you??? Guys-----



thanks, Glen

Glen,

Why use anti-seize at all? Do you plan on ever removing the ATS manifold?

I would hope not. I installed mine, it's a great item & I would say it is something you will never need to touch again. Just my opinion.

Mike
 
Installation with Anti-sieze is great and removal is even better. I would not worry about being soo scientific with exhaust manifold bolts though. Tight is good but too tight will result in broken bolts which is obvious. I'd never use Anti-sieze on anything internal engine.
 
MHalloran said:
Why use anti-seize at all? Do you plan on ever removing the ATS manifold?

I would hope not. I installed mine, it's a great item & I would say it is something you will never need to touch again. Just my opinion.



Well, you could blow a head gasket. :-laf
 
Use a crows foot wrench on your tq wrench and make sure the crows foot is at a 90* angle to the wrench or it throws off the tq.

As for anti-sieze changing tq, yes it does. I believe it is something like 3% or 5%. No big deal. Also, I use antiseize on EVERYTHING that may get hot or corrode or just plain be a PITA. Just don't use it where it can contaminate you oil. Use oil on threads or petroluim jelly there.
 
gathomas,

What you are talking about is "Wet Torque" and "Dry Torque". Unless the instructions specifies Dry torque everything is Wet. The reason they specify wet torque is that there is less friction when the bolt tightens down and you actually end up stretching the bolt. (the most accurate way to torque but few people have the gages to measure bolt stretch and instruction manuals will not specify bolt stretch. That is how we torque the N1 compressor bolts on turbine engines. ) So use a good high temp anti-seize and have at it. If you are reluctant to spend a goodly amount for a high temp anti-seize(2400 degrees) you can use Phillips Milk of Magnesia. We use that on turbine sections of some aircraft. Hope this helps.

WD
 
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