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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Antifreeze leak...new one on the tech.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Vacuum Leak

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David Wheeler

TDR MEMBER
Today, after sitting for about an hour, the beast emptied approx. a half gallon of antifreeze on the ground. Thought heater hose and many other things..... no luck. With the engine off, squeezed the upper radiator hose... "squirt"!!! On the rear of the engine, passenger side, there is a 1/4" freeze plug (expansion plug) directly under the #6 cylinder exhaust port. In fact, after further investigation, there is one under each exhaust port for each cylinder. Anyway, this plug has a small hole in it and is squirting antifreeze when under pressure. Technician said he has never see this before. He ordered the new plug and told me it would be a couple of days until it arrived. :eek:



I'm really concerned about this diesel tech (Dodge dealer) working on this engine if he is not familiar with the procedure. Can't find any reference to the procedure in the service manual either. Now I'm really worried :( Anyone else experienced a leaky plug?



Please console me! :rolleyes:



David
 
David,

The same thing happened to my friends 2001 3500. I replaced the freeze out plug for him and he has had no leaks sense.

I also change the anti freeze w/ Rotella 50/50 pre mix.

His truck had 13,000 miles when he noticed the leak and it looked like to me it had been leaking for a long time. Its simple to change them and there should be no damage to your engine unless you were running hot.
 
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freez plug leak

The so called freez plug is a sand cast hole plug they are force fit , banged in with a hamer or mallet ,they got the name freez plug from when water in block froze out pushed the plug some times with no dammage to eng ,easy to replace if you can get at them most will pull out with screw driver best if water is lower than plug, :D whipe area insert plug bang it in fill with antifreez run eng look for leak ,small leak in center could be stop temp with a epoxy sealer after wipe dry . Hope this helps . Ron in Louisville KY:confused: :confused: :eek: :eek: :D
 
Back home

Gentlemen:



Thanks for the replies. Truck is now back home with new plug in place. Tech. had to fashion his own tools to do the work. Drilled into the center of the plug, screwed in an appropiate sized screw, used a wedge like tool to pry on the screw until the plug came out. He then soldered a small socket to an old allen wrench to use as a plug driver. Placed the new plug on the end of the socket, positioned the plug in the hole and drove it home with a small hammer. As previously mentioned, there is no mention of the procedure in the service manuals. Hope it holds!!!



My best to all,



David
 
Excellent reply Ron. I would also like to add, I've always applied a little Permatex to the circumference of the freeze plug prior to installation... to stop any possible peripheral leakage.
 
Sprung a Leak

My truck has the same leak, noticed this AM after dropping off my son at school.



Don't want my local Dodge "techs" working on the truck, Dodge said they would send it to Cummins; however; my local Cummins shop is backed up 7 to 10 days. Cummins said it would sit on their lot for 2 or 3 days before they could even look at it. If I go that route I will have to remove some stuff before I drop it off.



I think I can do this myself. Access is tight but should be possible. The drill/screw/lever out method seems like the only way to tackle it.



I was thinking of trying to reset the expansion plug before removing it, nothing to loose right. Could that make it harder to remove? I haven't been able to determine if the coolant is leaking through the plug or around the plug, hope to get a good look at it this afternoon.



Anyone have a part number?



I think it might be:

3945095

or

3945093



Hard to tell from the diagram I have.



Stuff like this never happens when it is warm out.



Thanks,

Neal
 
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Leaky Freezeplugs

I'd pull the leaky one out and determine if it corroded through, causing the leak. All of the plugs I've ever had to change were corroded from the coolant. Remember, if the one is corroded, the rest of them can't be too far behind. :rolleyes: the same coolant passes by all of the plugs... ... I would change all of them that I could now, while you have the water out of it anyway. The plugs are way cheap at any parts store.
 
!@####%^***!!!

Got a much better look at now than I did before, this is not going to be fun.



Looks like a small portion of the bottom of the plug is corroded. Access is going to be tough. If I remove the downpipe that will give me room to work but the real problem is lack of space to drill a hole in the expansion plug to remove it with a screw. If I get it out putting the new one in isn't goin to be a picnic. I may try to run a small self tapping screw into the plug using a driver with a flexi shaft.



Why would expansion plug(s) fall apart at 37K miles? Doesn't inspire confidence for the long haul. My truck has green coolant in it from the factory, not the usual Fleetgaurd blue/green coolant. Could that be part of the problem?



I might give in and let Cummins have at it. Think they would pull the head to replace the plug(s). I have stealth BD II's, should I reinstall the stock injectors before a trip to Cummins? EZ, boost elbow and BHAF will be removed for sure.



Thanks,

Neal
 
Same exact plug leaked on my truck too when it had about 12000 miles. I was also nervous about the Dodge tech working on the truck, but all has been good since.
 
Sorta odd to hear so many casting plug problems - makes me wonder if there's an unusual electrolisis (sp?) problem with our later engines... :eek: :confused:



ANYWAY, there ARE better grades of plugs available, including ones made out of brass - and I would think plugs used in marine applications would be worth looking into...
 
Maybe use a Dremel tool to get the hole in the plug. Smaller tool, lots of options of bits to get the hole made for the screw.



Bob Weis
 
i used a tap to get the old plug out. then got a bigger tap to tap the hole. then used a threaded plug and some sealent should never come out again.
 
grass hopper:

I have filed your method away in my mental record for future reference. I've turned wrenches for many years but all the freeze plugs I've replaced because of leaks have been large ones. Probably couldn't have found a tap to fit anyway.



Excellent idea!



Dan
 
grass hopper,



How did the block metal take the tap cutting? Good, fair?



How thick is the block at the plug? (approximately)



What size tap did you tap the block with? diameter / thread pitch?



What was the metal in the plug? brass, steel, copper?



Do you think the metal in the plug will wind up bonding electrically or chemically with the block metal and it will become a virtually permanent bond?



Thanks,



Bob Weis
 
How did the block metal take the tap cutting? Good, fair?

it was not hard to tap the block at all.



How thick is the block at the plug? (approximately)

i would say noless then 3/8" & no more then 1/2" thick



What size tap did you tap the block with? diameter / thread pitch?

the tap i used was just a bit bigger then 1/4" and it was a fine thread. i took the tools back to the shop already other wise i could give you true size's.



What was the metal in the plug? brass, steel, copper?

mine was steel



Do you think the metal in the plug will wind up bonding electrically or chemically with the block metal and it will become a virtually permanent bond?

i hope so. i hope it never come out again it's not a hard job to do just takes some time doing (about 4hr) like the guy wrote there is one at every cylinder so i am ready. i know the others won't take as long as this one did now that i know how to fix it. it just that 1st time thing.



i will try and remember to get a list of the tools and patys i used and post them here.

thanks

edwin
 
O. k. here are the tools i used

8mm x 1. 25 pich tap (used it to tap the plug then ran an 8mmx1. 25 pich bolt along with a 1/2" nut slid the bolt through the nut then screw the bolt into the plug as i tightened the bolt it pulled the plug out)

Then i taped the hole with a 1/8-28 B. S. P Tap (pipe tap)

Then took my 3/8 pipe plug and screwed it in along with sealant.

It’s been fine so far.
 
If you can get a flat bladed screwdriver to fit the rim of the frost plug, then you tap one side and it will spin sideways and then pull out with pliers. You can also buy freeze plugs that have a rubber ring around it. Just put in hole and tighten nut. They will expand and last a long time. Used them on many of my drag cars over the years. Good luck, MOE
 
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