Antifreze change

[Easy]

It's time for me to change my antifreeze but I am getting too many different answers on what kind and type to use. Also what do I use to flush the system? I am also told that certain flushing products will eat some seals as well as the wrong antifreeze. Will removing the muffler and putting in a straight pipe increase my power and fuel milege or is their a better way to go. My motor has allready been turned up slightly (don't exactly know how much) by Jerry McClain if you guys are familiar with him. I have a '97 2x4 3500 dually stock except for the McClain tuneup.

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Rick Schmidt

 

[TomGolden]

I asked the same question a few months back. You'll likely get some telling you to search the archives, which is usually a valuable thing to do. I went to Cummins West office in Sacramento last month and bought 10 galoons of Fleetguard ES Compleat, which has the DCA anti-corrosion additive in it, and is already pre-mixed 50/50 with de-mineralized water, so now I don't have to worry about the qwuality of the water I mix with the coolant. I paid about $7. 50 a gallon. I bought 6 gallons for the refil of the system, and 4 to carry in my tool box just in case. Had a cab heater hose blow on my old Ford diesel going through the Tehatchapi mountains a few years back, and would have been in big trouble if I didn't carry spare coolant with me.

I don't know where to suggest you get the Fleetguard coolant in your part of the country, but if you go to the Fleetgaurd web site, if I remember right, they have a dealer locator function that will let you find a Fleetguard dealer near you.

Tom


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-- email address removed --
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, DD Stage 3 afterburners & boost module, 4" Jardine exhaust, Amsoil, Psychotty air, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, no silencer ring, Armacoating bed liner, TDR decal, Jack holiday antenna ball

NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California

 

[radixr]

Rick,

I recently changed out my antifreeze. I bought 6 gallons of Fleetguard (concentrate) at my local Cummins dealer and 6 gallons of distilled water at Walmart (less than $1. 00/gal. )

I drained out as much of the old stuff as I could (drained rad. , removed lower rad. hose, blew compressed air into one of the heater hoses -- after setting the heat control up). Added tap water to fill it up and then drained it out again. "Restocked" it with 3 gallons of Fleetguard and 2 gallons of distilled water (which means there was still about 6 quarts of tap water/diluted old coolant left in). I don't know if there is any way to get every bit of old coolant out. If there is, I wish someone would clue us in.

If I knew where the low spot in the cooling system was, I would consider drilling and tapping it for a drain plug. One idea I did have after finishing the job was to back the rear wheels up on ramps to get the aft end of the engine higher than the front.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT,Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, ATS 3-piece Exhaust Manifold, Chrome Valve Covers, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

[This message has been edited by radixr (edited 05-15-2001). ]

 

[mikepvg]

Not everyone makes you do your own research #ad


Here's a email from Cummins regarding coolant:
> Cummins neither approves nor disapproves products marketed by other
> companies. Cummins Fleetguard subsidiary supplies filters and coolant
> products and their products can be viewed on the Fleetguard page of our
> website.
>
> Cummins recommends a 50/50 mixture of good quality water and low-silicate
> antifreeze, which meets ASTM D4985 test or the silicate level in GM6038.
> Never exceed 68% antifreeze concentration since it decreases freeze
> protection and can cause engine problems and coolant leaks.
>
> The water quality should not have excess levels of calcium/magnesium (less
> than 170 PPM), chlorides (less than 40 PPM) or sulfates (less than 100
> PPM), since these chemicals can cause cooling system corrosion. Preferred
> water is de-ionized, distilled, or de-mineralized. Coolant should be
> replaced every two years for optimum protection of your engine cooling
> system. If the quality of the water is suspect replace coolant.
>
> Cummins recommends the use of fully-formulated antifreeze or coolant
> containing a precharge of Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA) in all
> engine models except the B5. 9 series which does not have replaceable
> sleeves (liners). Antifreeze or coolant meeting The Maintenance Council
> (TMC) Recommended Practice (RP) 329, "?Ethylene Glycol Base Coolant", or
> TMC RP 330 "?Propylene Glycol Base Coolant" (which contain a precharge of
> SCA) form the basis for these recommendations.
>
> For example, Cummins recommends the use of Fleetguard COMPLEAT coolant,
> which includes low silicate antifreeze as well as DCA additives. COMPLEAT
> is available from any Cummins or Fleetguard authorized dealer.
>
> Fully formulated antifreezes significantly reduce the opportunity for error
> and the need for SCA tracking since the SCA is premixed in the antifreeze.
> The use of partially formulated (heavy -duty) antifreezes is an acceptable
> alternative practice but is not preferred. When partially formulated
> antifreezes are used, the SCA levels should still be monitored.
>
> There is a Fleetguard 'pre-charge' coolant filter that has 12 units of DCA4
> and a service filter with 4 units of DCA. The capacity of the cooling
> system determines how many units of chemical are needed to properly treat
> the coolant. The precharge filters are used when fresh coolant is put into
> the engine cooling system, then the 'service filter' is used to maintain
> the proper DCA level until the next coolant change. Cummins recommends
> that the coolant be changed every 2 years.
>
> There are commercial radiator cleaners available for flushing the cooling
> system, which is a good maintenance practice. The Cummins operation and
> maintenance manual suggests, that after draining the old coolant, fill the
> system with a mixture of sodium carbonate and water (1 pound of sodium
> carbonate to 6 gallons water).
>
> Leave the radiator cap off and run the engine for 5 minutes with the
> coolant temperature above 176 degF, then stop the engine and drain the
> system. Refill the system with clean water and run the engine again for 5
> minutes and drain. Refill the system with a mixture of 50 % water and 50 %
> ethylene glycol or propylene glycol antifreeze. Install the pressure cap
> and run the engine until it reaches 180degF and check for coolant leaks.
> After cooling, check the coolant level again to make sure the system is
> full of coolant.

BTW, I found pre-mixed Shell Rotella Coolant meeting Cummins specs @ Pep Boys & I did the TDR mag recommended "easy" coolant change by draining just the radiator fluid & refilling w/ a little over 3gals. Proceed to do this twice as often as a full flush & have more time enjoying your CTD instead of working on it!
#ad

Mike

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94 2500HD 4X4 5sp w/GearVendors O. D. 4:10 L. S. D. , K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Fuel w/ Kevlar BSS line, Mag-Hytec Rear, 126K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1=Anti-"pinch" protection.
Credit for my wise Cummins Diesel procurement must go to "Flash" (Quarter Horse/Appaloosa) & his 4 legged pals!

 

[Hyper]

remove your water pump. Its only 2 bolts and almost all the antifreeze will come out.

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1993 Dodge Prostock Daytona 7:70@172, 1987 Grand National 11:77@115, 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually. Stock with a 5 speed, Home page http://www.home.earthlink.net/~whra3