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Any One Intrested In A Heavy Duty Aluminum Radiator?

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G-Tech Results on 99 Auto

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Ed you have a PM. I dont want to sound like a whiner, but does anybody know for sure the 12 and 24v radiators are the same. My truck is a 2001. I dont want to shell out 700 bones for a radiator and then have to give it to my father in law:mad:
 
i will try to find out for sure. i will have to go to a dealer and check out a new one. i will keep everyone posted. but i think the only difference between the 12v and 24v rad is the newer rads have a aluminum core instead of copper. now does your tanks have any cooler lines in them for oil cooling trans or eng. on the 12v there is no oil coolers in the tanks.



ED
 
There are no additional lines for oil cooling that go into the radiator on a 24 valve truck. There is a transmission oil to water cooler on our trucks, but it's shaped more like a little canister and on the passenger side of the engine.



I've done enough checking to be 99% sure that the 12v and the 24v radiators are the same.



Ed,

if you can find more information to confirm that they are the same, I'll be less of a gambler ;)



--Phil
 
i just got off the phone with a local radiator warehouse and i told him i just purchased a rad from him for mt 96 dodge ram turbo diesel and i did not need it but i knew a a friend with a 2002 and will it fit. he said that same part # for 1994-2002 so there is your answer. also i just looked at a 1999 and it looked the same. shroud bolts in same place top mounts in the same place. so i would say that this will fit 94-02 ram diesels.



ED
 
I am interested in this but what guarantee do we have that it is going to work as planed? I am not trying to be negative but this is a lot of money.
 
I am interested also. . [in the extra HD version] but also have the same concerns as above. .

I also plan on a large 5'er and have some power installed with plans on more. [in the 430-470 range now]



Rig Description below
 
griffin is the vendor that is going to make the radiator. i think that they know what they are talking about but i will call tomorrow and these ? and i will post what i heard. but as of now i don't even have 12 people that are solid.
 
read this. this should answer all your ?



ED



Tubes are the primary source of cooling. A radiators cooling capacity is governed by a number of factors. Most important are the tubes, the primary source of cooling. Heat dissipates from the coolant (water and antifreeze) through the tube wall (primary), then through the fins (secondary). Air passing through the fins carries away heat, thereby allowing tubes and fins to absorb more heat from the coolant. In serpentine fin (VT) construction, the flat side of the oval tube is in direct contact with the fin, providing secondary cooling. The rounded ends of the tube are not in direct contact with the fin and therefore do not provide secondary cooling. On the other hand, the rounded ends of the tube provide strength to the tube keeping internal pressure from pushing the tube into a round shape (ballooning).



In the beginning, there was the copper brass radiator. Copper brass construction seemed the obvious choice for the first radiators because of superior heat conductivity, ease of forming and ease of repair. The earliest radiators used round tubes. Manufacturers moved to 1/2' oval tubes in the late 1920's which worked well with the low-powered engines of the day. In the late 1940's, Ford began using 5/8" tubes. In 1958, GM followed suit using 314" tube with a wall thickness of . 005



In the beginning, there was the copper brass radiator. Copper brass construction seemed the obvious choice for the first radiators because of superior heat conductivity, ease of forming and ease of repair. The earliest radiators used round tubes. Manufacturers moved to 1/2' oval tubes in the late 1920's which worked well with the low-powered engines of the day. In the late 1940's, Ford began using 5/8" tubes. In 1958, GM followed suit using 314" tube with a wall thickness of . 005. This wall thickness worked fine on 1/2" tubes but proved too weak for the wider tube thus GM ran into problems with ballooning. GM ultimately recognized the cooling advantages of the wider tube and forged ahead with a new tube with walls . 007 thick.



GM also tried one other approach. They built a radiator that used 3/8" tubes. By increasing the number of tubes in the radiator, GM was able to compensate for this smaller tube size. The smaller tube had virtually no dead spots. In other words, virtually all of the coolant came in direct contact with a tube wall. However, because the tubes were so tiny, even the smallest particle could cause them to clog thus decreasing the overall efficiency of the radiator.



In the 1980's, Ford attempted to improve the cooling efficiency of their radiators by utilizing computer technology. What Ford learned was that improving the cooling efficiency would require utilizing wider tubes. This meant that still a greater tube wall thickness would be needed to prevent ballooning. For example a 1" tube would require a wall thickness of . 015" which was over twice the thickness used on a 5/8" tube.



At a time when auto manufacturers were trimming weight on all their vehicles, the increase in weight that resulted from the increased tube wall thickness was unacceptable.



The question that manufacturers were faced with was "How can a radiator be built with increased tube width, increased tube wall thickness and still end up being lightweight?". The answer- --ALUMINUM! An aluminum radiator built with 1" wide tubes with a . 016" tube wall turned out to be approximately 60% lighter than the same copper brass radiator. The 1" tube increased direct tube- to-fin contact and cooling capacity by roughly 25%. Therefore, a 2-row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes is equivalent to a 5-row copper brass radiator with 1/2" tubes. The state of the art engineering advantages of the increased tube-to-fin contact are far superior to the lead joint found on copper brass radiators. The welded aluminum construction also proved to be stronger than the lead-soldered copper brass radiator. Today all vehicle manufacturers incorporate aluminum radiators with wide tubes in their designs. GM, for instance, offers an aluminum radiator with 1-1/4" tubes. Mercedes Benz uses 1 1/2" tubes. ALUMINUM RADIATORS THE

THE GRIFFIN WAY





GRIFFIN™ manufactures both aluminum and copper brass radiators. Each alloy has its own strengths and appropriate applications.



Copper is a good heat conductor, but solder required to bond the tubes to fin creates an insulation point that prevents some heat transfer. Aluminum tubes are welded rather than soldered to the aluminum tanks, providing a more efficient conductor for cooling efficiency.



The strength of the materials is one difference between aluminum and copper. The copper tubes carrying the coolant must be very thin to keep a copper brass radiator cooling efficiently. Since copper is relatively weak, the tubes must be narrow in order to prevent the internal pressure from swelling or exploding. Aluminum is much stronger, allowing the use of considerably wider tubes. Wider tubes allow more direct contact between the fins and the tube, increasing the radiator’s capacity to dissipate heat away from the engine.



Aluminum radiators are commonly recommended and preferred for the demands of high performance applications.



Another important benefit of aluminum is its resistance to damage. GRIFFIN™ goes the extra mile to build a rugged, durable, high performance radiator. Every GRIFFIN™ radiator is reinforced with a special high temperature epoxy, which provides additional tube to header strength and assists in the prevention of vibration failure. This process is Q1 approved by Ford Motor Company, one of the toughest quality standards in the industry.



The intercore structure is furnace brazed at temperatures in excess of 1100 degrees Fahrenheit. This unique GRIFFIN™ manufacturing process also anneals the tubing, making it flexible to resist puncture or split damage when assaulted by smaller debris found on a racetrack. Aluminum tubing tends to bend rather than tear or split. In many cases, the GRIFFIN™ manufacturing process is the difference between finishing a race and experiencing an expensive failure.
 
Ed. .

PM with contact info is in the mail to ya. Let me know whats up... Andy



On edit... .

I forgot to let you know I'll want the big tubes for mine.
 
hey guys i got a lot for positive feed back but still a little a shy to get this thing off the ground. need some more people. then i will start contacting people on the final details.



ED
 
I paid $200 for my radiator from Afco. It's aluminum, 2 row 1. 25in. It was'nt a direct bolt in but was'nt hard to do. It's also a bit shorter on the ends for use with custom intercooler with true 4 inch inlets/outlets.
 
hufnpuf: Talk MORE about this deal you found.....



I sure as heck don't want to shell out ~$700 bones if a ~$200 unit with 2 hours of BOMBs to it will get the job done... .



Matt
 
Matt, what i did probably wouldn't be the best for an everyday driver, the radiator should be enough to keep things cool, but my project is'nt finished yet, so I'm not 100% sure. I used a chevy style for the correct inlet/outlets. It measures 31 by 19, which is what i was after. It's not as wide, and I'm having an intercooler made so i have more room for that. I had to make brackets and rig up hoses but it was easy. Im put the same radiator in a mustang with a 501 ci big block and it keeps it cool, so it should be fine on my truck, but i'm never going to tow anything with it either. Do a search for Afco radiators. You can find them as cheap as $179.
 
WELL GUYS I NEED 2 MORE PEOPLE TO EMAIL ME SAYING THAT WANT A GRIFFIN RADIATOR. AFTER THAT I CAN GET THE BALL MOVING. TO GET THE RADS MADE.



ED
 
Do you have any idea what the weight difference would be?

About how long would it take to build these?

Thanks.
 
Originally posted by Evil Otto

they should be about 50-60% lighter

and it should take 6-8 weeks to build.



Otto,

Neat project, larger capacity is great! Thought that I should mention that (in my experience) Dodge used a copper radiator until early '99, then changed to the current ('02) aluminum. I believe the aluminum factory radiator has less cooling capacity then the factory copper. The factory aluminum radiators weigh less then the copper. Larry
 
Been on the road, just found this...

Seems to me the only true OTR PU, (if you're gonna claim it I wanna see yur logs), on the TDR board ought to be number 12 on this list. If I end up number 13 all bets are off. Matter of fact I was married on Friday the 13th of December and she's still hangin in there after 35 years. So maybe 13th is acceptable to me after all. Monies in the bank, mark me down for the larger of the versions.



edit: changed to larger



Be Safe,

Steve J.
 
Last edited:
Thought that I should mention that (in my experience) Dodge used a copper radiator until early '99, then changed to the current ('02) aluminum. I believe the aluminum factory radiator has less cooling capacity then the factory copper. The factory aluminum radiators weigh less then the copper. Larry [/B][/QUOTE]





The strength of the materials is one difference between aluminum and copper. The copper tubes carrying the coolant must be very thin to keep a copper brass radiator cooling efficiently. Since copper is relatively weak, the tubes must be narrow in order to prevent the internal pressure from swelling or exploding. Aluminum is much stronger, allowing the use of considerably wider tubes. Wider tubes allow more direct contact between the fins and the tube, increasing the radiator’s capacity to dissipate heat away from the engine.



the rad will have 2 rows of very large tubes your choice of1 1/4 or 1 1/2 tube size. (if you think of it that is 2 1/2''-3''of cooling surface per row compared to 4 rows at 1/2'' total of 2'' of cooling surface from stock rad. ) with 3 1/2 inch tanks and factory drop in replacement.





ED
 
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