Any suggestions on how to wire the 97s Shut off on my old Ford?

[RSP]

I seen in the book that one wire pulls it open and the other holds it open. Do I need to use 2 relays or just one for the Hold open wire and straight from the Starter solinoid for the Pulls it open wire? Or?

 

[MMcCallie]

There was recently a post about not using the solenoid at all and rigging a pull cable instead. That's what i have. All manual. Simpler and cheaper if you ever have to replace the solenoid.

 

[PKirby]

I used a Ford starter solenoid triggered from the starter wire to power the pull-up windings on the Cummins fuel solenoid. It may be overkill but it is cheap and it works.

 

[RSP]

The manual pull cable is NOT an option for me. This is not an old time Semi truck. Everyone tried to get me to do a pull cable on my first gen and I refused. Thanks though

 

[MMcCallie]

Citydiesel.net has some brackets and harness options for the fuel shut off solenoid that i came across last night.

 

[Scot]

The easiest place to get your tap is off of the two wires that originally went to the duraspark box. One is red and the other white. One will give you a 12v@start for lift. Run that to a solonoid to carry the current. The other is 12v@run. Use that directly to the hold. I forget which is wire is which.

 

[DieselTim]

fuel shut off

On my p-pumped 24v, I have added a 30amp 12vdc relay from Radio Shack ($6) to power the hold open part of the solinoid, for the pull open side, I wired straight to the starter solinoid. So, when I hit the key to start the engine it also puts power to the fuel solinoid and when the key goes back to the run position it powers the relay I added so it maintains the power to hold open the fuel valve until I turn off the key. I think the wires on the fuel solinoid were red, black and white. The black is ground, and I would have to test with a meter to tell you which one of the others is start and which is maintain. but the one with the highest ohm reading is the start the lower reading is the maintain.



Dieseltim

 

[RyanB]

The manual pull cable is NOT an option for me. This is not an old time Semi truck. Everyone tried to get me to do a pull cable on my first gen and I refused. Thanks though

Honestly I thought the same thing before as you about a year ago when still building my GMC conversion truck. I thought it would be a total pain an the arse and was 100% positive I wouldn't go with it... not sure why I decieded to change my mind but I am glad I did. There are a few really good reasons why!



#1- You can actually pre-lube the engine oil by waiting to turn on the fuel after you crank for a few cranks and see oil pressure (to me this the best reason of all) and without the injectors shooting fuel it cranks so much smoother and faster that I can get a good heat build up in the cylinders and then turn on the fuel and I am up and running (I run probably much larger injectors than you do though)



#2 - Saftey... I have heard its relative easy to steel these trucks and having this insureance keeps my mind off it driving away with out me in the drivers seat.



There are other reasons also and I am sure others will tell you what they are.



Good luck... RyanB