Any surprises doing oil, oil & fuel,filter changes?

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Hi Again Folks,
Thanks to a Dealership paperwork mess-up I get to have the FIRST oil change done by the Dealership. After that I do my own #ad

What can I expect first from the oil filter;
what surprises can I expect from the the oil pan plug? It's a torx screw isn't it? Next, breaking the seal on the oil filter; will is splash out oil or not? Same question for the fuel filter. When you break the seals on the two filters do I take a bath and/or do I have to give the (nice clean) Cummins a bath?
Then how much oil do I put into the new filter? Also, what's the trick for putting fuel into the fuel filter canister? As I understand it, the fuel filter threads directly onto the cap. That means that you have to "guesstimate" how much fresh fuel to put into the canister so it does not overflow when you replace the filter.
Thanks in advance for you expertise!

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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er

 

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No, you don't take a bath on the oil filter. After you get it loose you can put a big baggie, breadwrapper, etc. around it and then unscrew it. That way you don't spill any while pulling it up and out. I filled mine about 3/4 full of oil and didn't spill any going in. Drain plug is 3/8 drive, not torx.
Someone else will have to fill you in on fuel filter. Haven't done one yet.

 

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Tagalong,
The method that Lurch stated is probably the easiest(no mess). You can check archives on this one(many post).
Not sure but thought 2001 they were changing fuel filter so cap screwed off fuel filter cannister. If so you will need big wrench to unloosen it( don't use the 3/8 square in the middle).
If you still have the old version cannister screws off. Oil fiter wrench should get it.
Drain some fuel out of cannister by using water seperater drain.
Then go after filter.
For either style put back together turn key on for 25 seconds. This should fill fuel filter cannister. ( I believe with electronic fuel injector you get electric fuel pump also).
Should be ready to start.
My Freightliner is set up similar(cap screws off cannister) same electronic fuel injector pump/electric fuel pump(just easier to get to).
Don't over tighten drain plug on oil pan.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

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I've found if you let the engine sit over night or for an extended period of time, some of the oil in the filter will drain back. This aids in not spilling it after it is released from the threads and carried away from the engine. Besides that, the filter is cool to handle.

 

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Let me give some good advice- Go ahead and have a spare drain plug on hand before you start. It's a pretty helpless feeling breaking your plug on a holiday weekend and not having a spare like I did.
It is up to you whether you buy an OEM plug or Genos, or whatever. There is a great thread currently on the site about this.
That is my advice. Good luck - hope your first experience is better than mine.

David

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'00 2500QC-LWB 2WD 6sp. loaded with a bunch of goodies that I would not have ordered if I bought the truck new.

 

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It's not a torx you need for the oil plug, just use a 3/8" square drive socket wrench,it needs to be a high quantity one or it will bend or round off. If you don't have a good one use a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet with a high quality 1/2 x 3/8" adaptor.

 

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Good advice folks! The fuel filter cap does remove from the canister on the 2001's.
I'll have the large socket on hand to remove the fuel filter cover but was surprised to hear the need to have a spare oil pan drain plug? Is it getting them off or on that ruins them?
Thanks again,
Tag

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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er

 

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One other thing I thought of after my first post. My truck is 2wd, but I found that leaning over the fender is difficult in trying to R&R the oil filter. I use a plastic milk crate that is used for delivering several milk containers to stores. By standing on the crate it raises me just high enough to comfortably lean over the fender and work on the filter. I also use a fender cover for if you SCRATCH that fender because of your belt buckel, all kinds of stuff will take flight. At least in my shop anyway. Happy motoring! Dave

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One other thing which I hadn't seen mentioned by the others yet regarding the fuel filter. Do NOT use the same method as for the oil pan plug - sticking a socket extension right into the fuel filter canister lid. You may easily break the canister lid #ad
Get a large socket, I believe it is either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4", I don't remember which without looking at mine in my toolbox.

Godzilla has just over 8000 miles, and I have done both oil changes myself, and one fuel filter change. One thing which made things much easier for me when changing the oil filter, was temporarily removing the turbo-to-air box flex hose so I could bend my arm around enough to get a good solid grip on the oil filter, as you can only reach it from topside. I kneel on my front bumper, but be very careful of bending the fins on your A/C cooler thingie.

Some advice I got when asking about changing fuel filters was to go to your diesel fuel station and get a small 1 or 2 gallon can filled with fuel, so when you remove the old filter and drain the canister, you can then use the small can you got and fill the canister back up. Someone else pointed out that this fuel is then UNfiltered, so take that for what it's worth. Just thought I'd pass it along.

Enjoy!

Tom

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Get outta the way: The Cummins is Cummin'!

Tom Golden
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, TDR decal, Jack antenna ball
2001 Zinc Yellow SVT Mustang Cobra on order
NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California

 

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Tagalong,
I change my oil hot and take a sample from the heart of the stream. I use a baggie like MM said on the filter to keep from making a mess (learned from first time). Remember to take off the turbo hose to give you better access. Drain the fuel filter into a container and dispose of properly. Like MM stated when unscrewing the top of the fuel filter don't use the recessed square hole!Have clean fuel and spare drain plug on hand. When you replace the fuel filter fill the canister with clean fuel use the new o ring that came with the filter and just snug the cap down. ( that plastic breaks easy) Filling the canister allows for easier starting. Also fill the new oil filter 3/4 before installing. If you dropped your drain plug in the pan make sure you have the washer before you reinstall it and then add your oil. Reconnect your turbo hose and your done.

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Jim

Patriot blue Y2k 5sp (badges removed) 5. 0 R/T decal,hp reduction devices, QC,SLT+,leather, camper,TT,lsd,3. 54,4x4,hd xfer case,Geno's dual gauge, K&N stock filter, Tekonsha Sentinal,Reese 12 hole wd hitch, ARE lid & bedrug liner, Sony 10 disk cd changer.

 

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Looks to me like everyone covered most all of the details of your service needs. I would like to take this opportunity to prepare you for the sensation you may feel when ***** gives you a price for ATF + 3 or + 4 fluid. I don't hink I'm allowed to post prices but I can tell you its about 400% higher than I'm accustomed to paying for it. Its not hopeless, ATF + 3 + 4 can be found handily at 200% less than above. However that still 200% higher than it should cost.
#ad


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D McGrady 1996 Club Cab 6BTA 5. 9 12 Valve All Stock Except K&N and Wrangler A/T 305/70/16 136 K and going strong.

 

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Tagalong,

There is one other thing to look out for when changing your oil. This happened to me. I took my truck to a dealer for the first oil change. I didn't want to deal with an ultra tight oil filter. Anyway, all went well until I was about 3 blocks from the dealer and my check engine light came on. I immediately turned around and headed back to the dealer. When I found the service manager, the first thing he did was check the oil to see if someone had left the oil out. Fortunately, that was not the problem.

Lucky for me, one of the technicians knew what happened. The person changing the oil had shorted the main 135amp fuse by touching either a tool or the oil filter itself across the terminals on the back of the alternator.

One of these days I will find a cover for these terminals so that can never happen again!

Good luck!

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Lyndon Hendry
Chief Equine Officer (CEO) and
President for Life
Head Over Heels Farm

2001 2500 QC LB ETH/DEE 3. 55RE Patriot Blue
Pop-Up Hitch, Stock engine except for MIA blow-by-bottle

"An oil burner for the hay burners. "

 

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Lyndon,

A TSB exists to deal with the problem at the rear of the 2000 alternator. If the problem exists on your 2001, your dealer should perform the TSB if you complain about the symptoms (the arcing at the B+ at rear of alternator). The following is taken from the Department of Transportation website:

Service Bulletin Number: 082300
PLASTIC BOOT TO PROTECT THE ELECTRICAL HARNESS B+ END TERMINAL AT THE GENERATOR.

[This message has been edited by Thomas (edited 01-23-2001). ]

 

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After I toss the dirty fuel filter, I rinse the filter can clean with fuel, put the new filter in, wet the gaskets, put the whole thing in a plastic bag until it's back in place, tighten it, open the air vent and refill with fuel with a piece of plastic tubing and small funnel thru the water drain valve until it comes out the vent. Air is automaticly bled!

 

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Eventer, Thanks a lot for the tip about touching the alternator during oil filter changes. I have not had that happen during my filter changes and will be very careful in the future. Might take a look tomorrow and see what I can do about covering the terminals... just for safety sake. Don't suppose my 5 star would do anything about it.
Dave

 

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Thanks for all of the replies folks!!
Geeesh!! "have a spare oil pan plug on hand!"
"Don't use the square center hole in the top of the fuel filter canister!" "Don't drop the oil pan plug washer!" "Don't over torque the oil pan plug!" "Watch out for the B+ connector at the back of the alternator!"
I'm not an engine mechanic but I have been in the Collision Repair side of the automotive industry for over 30 years and I've gotta say
all of the "do's and don'ts of the Cummins engine is getting annoying! #ad

I'm grateful to each of you for sharing your experiences and I do intend to take advantage of being pre-warned. But when you think about it... given the reputation of the Cummins engine, there sure is a great deal of "stuff" that either breaks easily or has to be changed or added to keep it running properly! (Just venting!) #ad


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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er

 

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The only surprise that I had was how easy it was to get to everything. Really didn't even need to jack the truck up. The baggie trick works great. #ad


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Y2K Red Stealth Sport 2500 4X4 QC SLT+, 5-spd, 3. 54 anti-spin, 265-75-16 LTX’s (There ain’t no such thing as options, cause ya gotta have it all, including: DC’s dead cow/vinyl interior and don’t stop anti-lock brakes. ) Stock, but not for long. Oops, too late. What silencer ring? (More fun than my 98 SST)