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Any TDR Members in north GA willing to help?

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Any TDR Members in north GA willing to help?

August 27, 2016 - 29th Annual Roanoke Valley Mopar Show

Hello everyone...With the recent purchase of my 98 12v I am in need of someone with some experience. This truck has 70k miles and aside from regular maintenance has never been touched or modified. That's great, but it also means the dreaded KDP is waiting to pounce on me. I have never really worked on diesels but have done quite a bit with gas engines and jet engines so I do have some mechanical skill. I would really like an experienced person to come help me with tackling the KDP fix and possibly stepping up the timing to 15-16*. I'd be happy to compensate you for your time.

Anybody willing to help? I'm located in Kennesaw but if you have a shop I'd be happy to come to you. If I can't find someone to help I'm going to have to take it to a shop; any recommendations?
 
Out of all the things to do to that truck, the KDP is not much of a project after all compared to not doing it. Really well documented in many threads. A gasket, a seal and a KDP tab is about it IIRC.

Sorry, I'm at work right now don't have the time to find a good thread for you.
 
I've read the threads and watched the videos but nothing beats having an experienced hand to guide/help. Cummins South wants $2,340 to "fix" it....I guess I'll just have to go it alone and hope for the best
 
I don't disagree with having a been there done that looking over your shoulder. No clue where they came up with that number. We did a neighbors 24V that just needed tabbed in maybe 3 hours or so. But if it goes to a fatal then its pull camshaft and front gear case time and that can get pretty darn ugly. I got that merit badge.
 
I don't disagree with having a been there done that looking over your shoulder. No clue where they came up with that number. We did a neighbors 24V that just needed tabbed in maybe 3 hours or so. But if it goes to a fatal then its pull camshaft and front gear case time and that can get pretty darn ugly. I got that merit badge.

He told me 18 hours of labor at $130 an hour plus tax. He was also trying to convince me that it is silly to worry about it and that even if it does fall out "it's just a gear case". I'm trying to avoid that merit badge....
 
BS on the don't worry about it!

If any doubt, pull the gear cover and check or fix. It's a no brainer preemptive repair or major risk. A broken gearcase is why the '97 that I owned was sold.
 
Art;
I was a greeny when I decided to do mine. I was intimidated and unsure as to how this would turn out. I took the bull by the Horn and done it. I sourced all my parts and made my Tab, got a longer bolt, lock tite, and sealer. After that, through conversations with others that this would/might happen to, fixed theirs or helped them do the KDP fix. Just read up on the procedure, get it your mind and do it. not hard, just 3-4 hrs from beginning to end. Also you might want to check the torque on the bolts in there and make sure there not loose also. There are 5 that hold the gear case in place. That dowel pin should remain in place as it holds the gear case in alignment. Peace of mind is great.
If not done 3K is what the average repair goes for.
 
Art;
I was a greeny when I decided to do mine. I was intimidated and unsure as to how this would turn out. I took the bull by the Horn and done it. I sourced all my parts and made my Tab, got a longer bolt, lock tite, and sealer. After that, through conversations with others that this would/might happen to, fixed theirs or helped them do the KDP fix. Just read up on the procedure, get it your mind and do it. not hard, just 3-4 hrs from beginning to end. Also you might want to check the torque on the bolts in there and make sure there not loose also. There are 5 that hold the gear case in place. That dowel pin should remain in place as it holds the gear case in alignment. Peace of mind is great.
If not done 3K is what the average repair goes for.

It's definitely intimidating. I have done a couple BMW engine transplants when I used to race E30s but never touched a diesel. I have read many how-to's on the KDP...I feel like I know the procedure pretty well....as well as one can without doing it. My biggest concern is getting the crank seal on correctly. This seems to be the only part of the procedure that I can't quite understand from reading or seeing pictures.

My TST KDP kit should be here today...Depending on the weather I should be doing it sometime this weekend. I just hope I can get the crank seal figured out.
 
There have been many ways tried, hammer, vice, jumping on, cussing,--Patients was the biggest help. I used a hammer, some have installed it while the cover was on the truck, don't see how it could be done that way.
Use the seal guide when putting the cover on, it works surprisingly and DON"T use any lube on the crank., the seal installs DRY. Follow the instructions here carefully. You will notice that the bolts that hold the cover on are different lengths. I stuck them in cardboard when I removed them to keep them straight. The crank sensor I think measures at .050" thousands. Check this out. If you have one.

Also as a help to install the cover, I made some guide pins from longer bolts. This helps to start everything in the right direction, and line up the crank position, and bolts.
 
There have been many ways tried, hammer, vice, jumping on, cussing,--Patients was the biggest help. I used a hammer, some have installed it while the cover was on the truck, don't see how it could be done that way.
Use the seal guide when putting the cover on, it works surprisingly and DON"T use any lube on the crank., the seal installs DRY. Follow the instructions here carefully. You will notice that the bolts that hold the cover on are different lengths. I stuck them in cardboard when I removed them to keep them straight. The crank sensor I think measures at .050" thousands. Check this out. If you have one.

Also as a help to install the cover, I made some guide pins from longer bolts. This helps to start everything in the right direction, and line up the crank position, and bolts.


I have a feeling I will have the KDP itself tabbed in about 2-3 hours, then take another 5-6 to get the seal and cover installed again. Looking at the parts and reading the descriptions I just can't visualize how it is supposed to go. Maybe I need to find some youtube videos on the subject.
 
Well my prediction proved true...about 2 hours to get the cover off and kdp tabbed...another 6 to get the seal installed and get it back together...at least now I know it's done. The kdp was flush with the opening in the case. Who's to say if it had moved or not but it's done now. I should be starting up this morning...hopefully there aren't any leaks!
 
Well it looks like I'll be paying someone to fix this. I got it buttoned together and started it up. Drove to autozone about 6 miles away...came home to find the front of the oil pan a little wet and a quarter sized spot of oil on the ground about 10 mins after shutdown. The lower portion of the front cover seems wet but I can't tell if it's coming from there or the main seal. Any definitive way of telling if it is the main seal or the cover?

Either way I simply don't have it in me to tear that down again.
 
This is what it leaked while it was at work. Main seal?


20150824_161529.jpg


20150824_161529.jpg
 
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