Any tips or tricks to DANA 80 rear axle seal change?

[Bug Out]

I had a 76 chevy 3/4 ton with 4:10/ floating axles years ago and could NEVER get the rear axle's to stop leaking. Seal after seal and still 90w in the brakes. .



Now I have the Dodge 1 ton with the DANA 80 and floating axle.



Long story short, just bought a Mag-Hytec pan and going to change the seals before I bathe the gears in 8 quarts of oil.



I'd like to get some pointers on changing the seals so i dont have the NIGHTMARE oil leaks like i had on the old chevy.



I was told back then a slight coating of wheel bearing grease on the seal so it doesnt run dry until oil gets to it etc? ( good-bad advice?)



Any help, tips , and pointers would be appreciated. I checked the search engine with seals etc but no luck. Thanks.

 

[Cooker]

It is a very easy project. I can do it in under 1/2 an hour now, and that included jacking the truck up and taking the tire off. This assume you have the right tools. The wheel nut is 2 9/16 (at least on the 70's it is and another member confirmed it is on a 80) and you will need a special socket to remove it. It sounds like you've been through the rest of this drill before, so you already know the rest is very straight forward.



I would also recommend a replacement wheel nut, if your's is torn-up, and the "lock push-pin" that hold the nut in place.



I always coat the seal with a little grease, other members may have a different opinion.

 

[bowhunter]

Sounds like you are on the right track. If your rear axles have never been out since new, then be careful when trying to loosen the bolts that hold the axle in. The factory really torques these in, with lock-tight. I twisted three bolts off in the hub while trying to get them loose. I used a little heat to melt the locktight to let the bolts come out easier.



Kurt