Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Any Tips to Replace a Timing Case?

[Will24]

pop the pump gear off, then after the cam and crank are back in check, use the engine timing pin to set TDC, then use the pump timing pin under the acorn nut at the back of the pump to set the pump timing, put the gear back on (after thorough cleaning), tap it on with a hammer and a big socket, then undo the pins, and tq the pump nut.



The pump timing pin will be under that big nut, pull the whole thing out, it's a plastic pin, if you flip it around in the nut, you'll see it has two tabs on it, turn the pump over by hand until you can see the tab inside the pump line up with teh hole, seat the pin back in and put the nut back in, then install your gear



-Will

 

[Greenleaf]

Thank You. That's what I needed.



BTW, I have to remove the timing pin to R&R the air compressor, so I'm a bit familiar with it. Just never "used" in to set up a pump, yet.



Yes, it's THAT tight working inside of a transit model bus that I have to remove the timing pin's retaining nut to gain clearance to R&R the compressor.



There are holes in the bus frame to gain access to some of the mounting hardware. The air compressor sets right inside of the frame rail.



Fun! NOT!



Thanks once again.



Scott

 

[SRadke]

And advise from experience, don't forget to pull the timing pin back out of the gear before you bar the engine over :blushie:

 

[Greenleaf]

I just recently discovered that with the cam gear/crank gear in alignment the TDC plug went into the back side of the cam gear and the injection pump pin was turned over and seated with the timing tooth.



-S

 

[Will24]

What make and model of bus are ya working on? We do a LOT of the flat nose front engine blue birds in our shop.



-Will

 

[biggy238]

How big is the compressor? If you had hydraulic assist brakes, and didn't need the vacuum, a compressor would be a sweet mod. . (i'm thinking offroad rig with this) I've wanted a cummins in my bronco for a while and crank driven air compressor would be sweet to have on board.

 

[Greenleaf]

Bendix TU FLO 550 (two cylinder). You know... just like you see on the 855 Cummins NTC units over the road. Probably 55/60 lbs, cast iron, that sorta thing.



This particular engine is in a Thomas Safe-T-Liner 72 pass (transit) bus. I have 19 "B" engines here at the school. Thomas and Birds.



Then 12 valve engines (P and VE pumped) are the workhorse for sure. I just wish the ISB's had a bit better track record for us. It's "always someth'n" with them.



Too bad I messed up and cracked this engine's case She held on for a long time though.

-S

 

[Greenleaf]

Guys,



Another related question.



I need to make sure I get this absolutely correct. I simply remove the (six) head bolts and then when things are back together, install them and retorque ONLY them or should I pull ALL the bolts and clean/retorque them"



I have only pulled one at a time (valve spring swap) or all (head replacement). This time around I have to remove six of 'em.



Any suggestions?



Scott

 

[SRadke]

When I did it to a 12 valve I pulled the six and retorqued the six after checking to be sure they still met the Cummins length spec for a good head bolt. I figured on a (relatively) low power engine this would be sufficient and that truck has been running in the ~270hp range for 50k miles since. There is no way you'd want to remove them all without replacing the gasket.



-Scott

 

[Will24]

Like Scott said, just pull the 6 rocker support head bolts, and retorque to spec when ya put them back in.





-Will

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

If you haven't found a cover, here's a possibility:



http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3933&sort=1&cat=6&page=1