Anybody ever change valve springs???

[ARedetzke]

I'm getting ready to install an exhaust brake this weekend, and HD exhaust valve springs are going in with it. I've already researched it, and it doesn't sound too bad, just make sure each piston is at TDC so you can't drop a valve. I'm not too worried about it, but it is the first time I've done something like this to my motor and I'm wondering if anyone had any tips to make the job easier? Also, since I'll have to reset valve lash, anyone know the specs off the top of their head? Hopefully the E-brake will make the truck louder when activated (although braking will be nice too), but I've heard there is almost no difference. Anyone have any experience to share?

TIA

AJ

 

[dpuckett]

Clearance is: intake . 010" exhaust . 020"



Cant help you on the valve springs from personal experience; I've been sending all my money to the Sotddard County Gestapo and my elderly extortionist. BUT, there are mates, so to speak when you have your psiotns at TDC- #1 & 6; 2 & 5; 3 & 4. What I mean is, when #1 is at TDC on compression stroke, #6 is at TDC on exhasut stroke, hence you only need to find TDC w/ the pin. Mark 120 deg around each direction from your #1 TDC mark, and you will have the other cylinders marked, though my brain is now in Park, so I cant really tell you which direction gives you which pair.



I've read that since you have to remove the rocker tower, to drain the coolant to below head level to decrease the chance of water getting onto the loose(r) head gasket, though it could be a bit of cautious overkill.



Engine wont be any louder, at least not on the couple I have used. It makes a hissing sound at idle with the brake on, though. WOnt make a Jake Brake- like noise, though.

Daniel

 

[ARedetzke]

are you sure it's 120 degrees? I've been reading that you go 360 in the 2nd gen forums?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

with an inline 6 there are three times when two pistons are at TDC... 360 divided by three times = 120* apart

 

[ARedetzke]

10-4. I'm a retard. Thanks for saving me a bunch of trouble. Once I started thinking about it, 120 made a lot more sense than 360

AJ

 

[dpuckett]

You go 360 deg to do the second half of the valve adjustment. So yes, you will eventually go 360, just toward the end of the operation.



You going for all 12 valve springs, or just the exhaust?



-DP

 

[ARedetzke]

Just the exhaust springs for now. If I see a need later, I may go for the intake as well. Are there any advantages? I know you can rev higher, but won't it still defuel at 3200? Is there another GSK besides the 3200?

 

[1 locomotive]

?????

iHAVE A PAC EXHAUST BRAKE ! WITH STOCK SPRINGS ! works great ! why do you need to upgrade springs ??? I need to know !! thanks loco 1

 

[ARedetzke]

Stiffer exhaust valve springs give you more retarding power. Plus there is a risk of floating the valves with stock springs with a very heavy load, resulting in the valves hitting the top of the pistons (this is bad). I'd explain more, but I am typing less the use of one finger that got whacked with a hammer. BTW, don't do that!!!

AJ

 

[dpuckett]

heavier springs

From my understanding, the backpressure from the PacBrake is enough to overcome the valve spring tension and force the exhaust valves open, opening one to the risk of a valve hitting a piston, and something inside going BOOM. SO, heavier springs eliminate this possibility, or greatly reduce it at least.

ARedetzke-

I can hit over 3K now with the stock gov spring, at least by doing the math of speed, gears, and RPMs. I'll know for sure next week when I can buy a sensor kit for my tach. I'm sure 3500 wouldnt be too far out of the question with some fuelling enhancements and the right spring.



-DP

 

[1 locomotive]

what springs do we use on a 92 ctd ?? any body got a part #####

need more info ?? thanks loco 1

 

[ARedetzke]

Call Piers, they're $60. Just changed mine tonight. All I have to say is thank God for TDR!!! It does give you more braking power, plus the piece of mind that you won't float a valve. One of these days I'll buy 6 more and do the intake side and then rev the motor even higher. Also adjusted the valves, man did that quiet the motor a ton!! I never knew a diesel could be so quiet. Thanks for all the tips and advice everyone, like most things, it turned out to be easier than I had imagined.

AJ

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

The governor spring we are using is "labelled" a 3200 RPM gov. spring.

It is basically from a 3200 RPM application... .

In pretty much all situations the "governed RPM" is set using the mechanical adjustment which is the "high idle screw" or governor screw.

You can set it to nearly anything you want... .

I do not recommend having a daily driver set much beyond 3000 - 3100 RPM, mainly because you can end up with some unpleasant results with pistons and valves using stock valve springs. By installing the heavier 60 lb springs you can drag that up a bit more to, around, 3400 RPM.

It's well known that some lunatic who's name we won't mention cause he turned his back on the VE pump ( :-laf ) has run upwards of 3600 during a dyno run/racing 1/4 mi.



The gov spring we put in drags the defuel point right up to the physically governed speed that is set using the governor screw... . does this make sense??? it did to me at the time...



As for any "other" governor springs ... ... you'll just have to experiment to find it, errrr, them, ahhhhhhh... . one...



pastor bob...

 

[MPalachuk]

You can run a pac brake with stock springs but you have to leave a plug out of the brake butterfly. After putting in heaver exhaust springs you can plug the hole in the butterfly with a special plug and it will hold back ahole lot better. We put a brake on for a customer then later changed ex springs and plugged the hole and he said it worked tons better, very noticable difference.

 

[ARedetzke]

The BD brake has the same hole. Didn't know what it was for, so I just plugged it with a pipe plug. Exhaust brakes are the coolest!

 

[ARedetzke]

In case anyone ever needs to change them, here is how I did it. First, pull the timing pin, and use a mirror to look for the hole in the back of the gear that is at TDC, while turning the motor over with the alternater nut. Once I found that I put the pin back in and turned the motor until it clicked into place. You can now change springs on cylinders 1 and 6. Before you turn the motor be sure to pull the timing pin back out, you may have to turn it forwards (the alt nut turns it backwards) to dislodge the pin. Mark your crank dampener (not sure what to call it, harmonic balancer maybe) at 120 degee intervals, and make a reference mark on the block. To mark the balancer, wrap a piece of wire around it, cutting it to just go exactly all the way around. Then take the wire off, measure it, divide that measurement by 3 (360 degrees divided by 3=120 degrees) and mark the wire, dividing it into thirds, then put the wire back on the balancer, and mark it. Now turn the motor 120 degrees (backwards), this will put pistons 3 and 4 at the top, you can now change these springs. After that turn another 120 backwards and then change 2 and 5. When taking off the rocker arm assemblies remove the small bolt first and then the large one. When retorquing them the big one goes to 125 ft/lb and the small one to 18 ft/lb. To get the 60 # springs to compress enough to fit on, I had to screw them into the spring compressor as far as I could by hand before compressing it. Once all springs are changed, reset the valve lash using the instructions found at www.dodgeram.org. This was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be, thanks again for all the tips you guys gave me. Hopefully these instructions will help others in the future.

AJ

 

[1 locomotive]

thank you guys !! soooooo much !! tdr is great !!