Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) anybody ever try this?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ABS question

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I'm going to see if it will help my shudder in 4th
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Heres what I done I dropped It. 2 eights of an inch and the vibration is gone in 4th gear and it was so bad it would vibrate the driver floorboard now its gone there is still a little noise.

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I've never seen that before but I could see how it would work. I assume there is no side to side adjustment possible if there is a misalignment there. I had a vibration in my 2011 2500 that caused some problems for a while. I finally tried rotating the drive shaft 180 degrees at the rear yoke and it solved most of the problem. The rest I got out with a Balance Masters drive shaft balancer.
 
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I tried rotating the drive line somebody has replaced it at one time I still have a little vibration but nothing like it was before this I am going to drop it one more time and de what that does there doesn't seem to be any side adjustment at all .
 
I appreciate you taking the time to document this for us. Let us know what else you try. On my 2011, the front driveshaft must have had 10 balance weights on it. That was ridiculous. I rotated it as well and it helped a lot. All of that vibration was at highway speed (70mph +).
 
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Heres what I done I dropped It. 2 eights of an inch and the vibration is gone in 4th gear and it was so bad it would vibrate the driver floorboard now its gone there is still a little noise.

What is going to keep those shims in place? Maybe they should have been longer with the bolts passing thru them?

Did you check that the u-joints were all clocked correctly?

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SNOKING
 
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Yes the u joints are phased properly and I am making new shims that will be held in buy the bolts This
just was an experiment to see if this would help and it did a lot . also getting longer bolts and torque them to spec so it's done right .
 
The manual also gives some info about checking and fixing a vibration with hose clamps there's a lot info in the manual but I bet most shops never read it . My rear driveline has been replaced and they replaced carrier bearing and u joints so my guess is this vibration in my truck is not a new thing .
 
Clutch issue I think . Will be a lot better in 4 low but that's not the best if your on hard ground you could install a 2 low kit
 
Would this fix "Bucking" when trying to back my Fifth Wheel uphill? Or is it a clutch issue?
Thanks.

I would guess it's spring windup/release making clutch feathering impossible.

I tried shims of different thickness but still had the shudder and vibrations. My center bearing was getting really loose like the rubber was fatigued. (too much vibration?) and after checking replacement cost, I decided to go with a one-piece shaft.

Automatic trucks can use a newer OEM part, but since I have the stick, I had to go custom. I took measurements and sent off the yokes and few days later, UPS had a big long box for me. Nice and smooth now and one less U joint to worry about.
 
What does a one piece shaft cost where did you get it

Somewhere on this computer, I have pictures....

I called Action Machine Inc. in South Bend, IN and spoke with Bob. He told me what measurements he needed and and gave me the option of buying new yokes, or sending him my old ones. They can build a shaft without, but they need them to spin balance the whole assembly. It was just under $570 shipped to my door.

Their number is (574) 287-9650 (or fax 232-8727) or check out their website: http://www.actionmachineinc.com/driveshaftshop.aspx
 
My 99 2500 ex cab has a one piece shaft and has had this shudder for 220 k miles and has had 2 new clutches (one NAPA china chincy and one southbend) and still has shudder, I think that spring wrap up might be the answer but my wife will not lay down under the truck and watch as I am backing the truck up and I also won't do this when she is trying to back up the truck. How do I diagnose this problem??

gtwitch in wyoming
 
I see lots of problems that cause "shudder" or vibration related to the driveshaft. Naturally, the first is U joints or tires. After that, driveshaft balance is often a culprit, especially on higher mileage trucks that have the dampener ring mounted in rubber to the front of the shaft. That ring rotates just a little or the rubber gets loose, and there it goes. Secondly, the slip yokes can wear, especially when not greasable, making the splines have enough give to make elliptical circles instead of round ones, making the shaft travel out of round. That is really noticeable on launches and under heavy power. There is also a wear sleeve in the tailhousing of the transmission/Tcase that can cause that same issue. Driveshaft angles are important, too, and that's why the FSM shows lowering the carrier bearing, reducing incident angle. This will alleviate temporarily high mileage trucks that have worn slip yokes, as the lowering of the yoke slides it forward slightly, engaging less worn splines, until they wear in, too.

Bucking issues when launching or backing up are usually related to spring wrap or flywheel hotspots. Launching in second gear when loaded or with a heavy truck will make your flywheel look like a checkerboard of blue hot spots and circles. They don't go away without a grinding mill.
 
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