2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Anybody lowered the rear end?

[stacerbob]

Its a 2wd 3500. I would like for it to sit about 3-4" lower in the rear so it would sit "close" to level unloaded. I would like to keep the overloads but they are not necessary. Anybody ever done this without going to 'bags? Thanks.

 

[John - K5AWO]

I just talked with my spring shop about this very thing 3 weeks ago. Mine is a 4x4 but the idea is the same. I need to lower the bed 4-5 inches so I can reach over the sides and use it for something besides a picture. I like CTD pictures, but it is a pickup after all.



They told me to take the overload stacks off completely. Remove the 2nd long leaf, and flip the bottom curved leaf upside down. I have airbags to compensate for the loss of carrying capacity. They also told me to go to Rancho shocks 5000 or 9000 series.



My goal is to make it ride softer on those dern expansion joints that Arizona is so fond of #$%^&*

 

[Beast2B]

Somewhere else here I read about replacing the rear block with a shorter block to keep the stock spring pack the same. No change in ride or capacity, just drops the butt.

 

[John - K5AWO]

Originally posted by Beast2B

Somewhere else here I read about replacing the rear block with a shorter block to keep the stock spring pack the same. No change in ride or capacity, just drops the butt.

Yeah, I saw that too a while back. Besides lowering the bed, I want to soften the harsh ride. I have a set of Firestone air bags to put on it to make up for loss of carrying capacity when needed.



For the next couple years, this truck will be running empty except for occassional sand and rock for the landscaping here at the house.



I've got a real nice tandem axle trailer that handles most of the heavy stuff for me.

 

[stacerbob]

But mine is a 2wd. It has no block, but it does look like a 4wd from the rear!

 

[RobertMiller1]

tsb

I think you are referring to a Chrysler TSB probably available on this board. They made a shorter block to lower the tail for trailer towing.

 

[Utah Willie]

My 3500 also was too high in the rear. I couldn't get the required space between the bed rails and my fifth wheel and didn't want to flip the suspension on the 5er. My solution was to replace the blocks between the axle and springs. I only reduced it about 2 1/2". It sits almost level empty but has a slight uphill look when loaded with fifth wheel or camper but I've found it to be a satisfactory compromise. Air bags would level it, however. BTW, I got the new, shorter blocks from a spring shop. As for the feared change in suspension geometry, I have near 95K with the blocks installed and have found no unusual wear nor steering difficulties.

 

[ntillm01]

stacerbob: I had the same thought on my 2WD 3500. You say you don't have a block between the axle and the spring, but you may want to look again. Mine was only 7/8 thick, cast iron, and I believe it's part of the camper package. I removed the block from both sides, and left the overloads since I wanted to keep the as-designed laod capacity.

Unloaded it has a slight nose-down rake, but is much better. I never did measure before and after at the hitch, but I am guessing a couple inches lower.

Others have pulled overloads, leafs etc. to soften the ride and it works. Just remember you're turning it into a half-ton truck then, and you won't really have a tonner anymore.

 

[stacerbob]

Mine has a 7/8" block but it is between the overloads and the main springs. Guess I need to start saving for the AIR RIDE TECHNOLOGIES suspension.