Anyone pulling with a DTT trany?

[RedRamer]

Is there a problem with overheating in 2nd or in third (not locked up) just like the stock transmission does?

thanks

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

The DTT still heats when pulling heavy (or braking) when the torque converter is unlocked, just not as bad as stock. DTT sells the Smart Controller to keep/allow TC lockup in 2nd and 3rd.

 

[Dkevdog]

Pulling hard and heavy with a 91% in the Colorado mountains and no overheating problems, ever. I do have the Hytec DD pan though, I'm sure that helps. The smart controller and pacbrake are next on my list



Kev

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

I pull heavy alot of the time. I almost never see temps over 170*. I live in the desert, haul hay, livestock and tractors around. I have pulled long grades and have no problems. I will even, sometimes turn the box up and pass slower vehicles with no problems. I have not sat in traffic because where I live there is none.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

The trick with traffic is to kick it in neutral and not let it sit there in gear, sometimes it takes 30 Min to drive one mile to get on base thanks to 9/11 that's about as bad as it gets. I've seen temps to 190 even with a DD pan, If your that worried Bill sells a big fat cooler to replace the stock one and you could always put fans on it.



Jim

 

[JBlock]

See 220f

I recently saw about 210-220 degrees after about 30-45 minutes idling at the border crossing into canada, That the temperature in the magtec dd Pan. Same think backing up, and that with the stock transmission TC.

It comes right down as soon as I driving, something below 140 always as the bottom oc the guage range.



Joe

 

[RedRamer]

Thanks guys

sounds like many of you guys are running the transmission temp sender in the pan.

I'm still deciding which way to go and looking at all the angles.

Cost is high for these trannies in Cdn buckeroos, and I don't really want to spend another G-note or so just to make it work the way I want.

I know I have a real heat problem when pulling... tho it's only the odd times, but when it happens , it gets like 230 degrees.

I'm thinking maybe the triple lock one doesn't get any heat cause it's always locked up.

Still waiting for the verdit on that one tho cause my trany still works

 

[Rd.Runnr]

I pull a 13K Alpenlite as much as possible. Never saw temps over 185. I do have the smart controller & double deep pan. Gets pretty hot in Texas & the DTT was the smartest mod I did for my truck. I can not say too many good things about DTT equipment & customer support. It is 1st class. : :

 

[cwsoules]

My 5er is a full load for my truck. I have the DTT transmission and a Smart Box. Towing in the mountains on I-80 I saw temperatures up to 240 on long grades with the transmission locked up in 3rd. Some times if I back off on speed just a little the temperature will drop.



I will try using the smart box with the transmission in 2nd to keep the transmission locked up above 18 mph in stop and go traffic.



Very slow traffic and backing up will cause my transmission temperature, measured at the output of the transmission enroute to the cooler, to reach up to 240. If I am backing, and can do it, I will shut down and let the truck cool for 30 minutes or so.



I would love to have a switch which would let me turn on the engine cooling fan when backing. The fan does not come on usually as the engine temperature does not rise to the point where the fan is required. Has anyone done this?

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Chuck,



I have the same temps on my truck. The sending unit in the cooler line is the hottest spot in the loop. When my transmission temp guage says that I am @ 220-240 I can open the hood and pull the dipstick. The fluid is only warm to the touch. I run around at 180* most of the time. When I check then the fluid is only luke warm. I wouldn't worry about it being so hot. I would think that it is only around 190-200* max.



Greg

 

[RedRamer]

Greg;

That's the whole issue, right there... .

If the sender is at the output line and the temp is let's say 250... is this doing damage to the transmission?

I know when it gets back to the pan it's only maybe 140 or less.



But is it 250 at the output line that's dangerous or 250 in the pan?



I think it's the 250 at the line cause the TC must be at that temp also?

Or am I off here.



goober

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Goober,

I think that it is not harmful. I just went to the place I had my transmission done for the 10,000 adjustment. The fluid was perfect, No clutch material in the pan. Just a little wear and tear. That is with 4x4 launches and 5x5 WOT runs every week. The fluid comes out of the TC after working very hard. It then goes through the cooling process. It is not the TC that has a bad time with the heat it is the seals. They can only handle so much. Then the seals start to break down. If we saw 250* in the pan then that would be bad. You can goto: www.dieseltrans.com

and ask this same question. I would like to hear what Bill has to say. Let us know O. K. ? Greg

 

[SlyBones]

Isnt this why DC moved the factory sender out of the hot line and into the valve body. Its the temperature of the oil up inside the transmission next to the seals and clutches. The hot line temps tell you how hard the TC is working. Pan temps are generally cooler and not realistic of whats inside the transmission. -- This is a question!



I believe 250* is what DC sets the factory gauge to, that sets off the light on your dash. This is usually too late. 280* or so line temps is about max, or about 200-225*pan temps max. At least this is what I have been using.



From different threads I have read, my general impression was the real tight TC's have more heat than stock sitting in heavy stop and stop traffic, and have less heat while rolling down the road.



The only time I really see any concern is when backing the trailer into a camp spot, that has a little incline to it and it takes me 5 attempts.

 

[RADdodge]

SlyBones - good post. Here is some back-up to what you said...



I save threads that are interesting to me. Of course, several of the early transmission threads were very interesting. Also, DTT has a question page on their Web site. Here is a quote from one of the threads (don't remember where and it was between 1 and 2 years ago) from Bill K. on the subject at hand. I use the following as a guideline regarding transmission temps. FYI.



"... Chrysler sets their safety mark at 230-250 degrees before your temp gauge will light up in the dash.

I consider 200 degrees in the pan a danger point, and when measuring out of the front cooler line comming out of the transmission I consider 285 to be a danger point.

Bill Kondolay

Diesel Transmission Technology"



... and one more from Bill on the same subject...



"As a basic guideline i tell my customers

275degrees is getting on the high side, when reading your trans temp from the front cooler line, ( the line that goes from the transmission to the heat exchanger)

Keep in mind if you see temps going above that you should consider a secondary cooler for your application.

When reading trans temps in the pan, Chrysler has their panic level between 230-240 degrees.

I usually consider 210-220 high in the pan.

If you are seeing temps above that you should consider a cooler for your application.

Normal operating temps between 180-190 out of lock up in the cooler lines , heavy traffic, (stop and go)

In the pan, normal operating temps should be 140-150 .



Bill"

 

[Shooter]

I can hit 300* in heavy stop and go traffic towing. Stop light every block or so at any ambient. Neutral does not help as neutral is only available for 40 to 110 seconds at red lights then back to 5mph crawls or 2 block sprints, freeway rush hours are also killers. . I have a aux cooler and it helps with pan temps but not " working temp ". Rural towing, even at low speeds, is not a problem as the tc is locked up and temp stay below 140* even at 120* ambients. The trick is to stay out of cities and watch transmission temps real close while pulling grades unlocked. I do not use the recomended fluid at they will break down at temps lower than what I regularly achieve. One shot backing into my drive with 5th will hit 300 also, sorry but I do not have the luxury of shutting it down half way in the drive to " COOL DOWN " before dropping the trailer.

Shortly after the mods I replaced both sending unit and gauge, the readings did not change. The recommended fluid was deteriorating and was changed to something that would not break down at the temps I run.

JMH experience

 

[RedRamer]

Thanks guys, great posts.

Yea, I remember reading some of those BK comments also.



My point here is deciding on which transmission to go with when I decide to go.



My problem is pulling temps, period.

I get them when I'm in a bad situation and like Shooter says, traffic jams is one.

Try from a dead stop, a 1 mile incline which you can't get enough speed out of to lock up 3rd. Hot!!!!

BK's trany is probably real good, but if I have to spend another $1k for it to do what I want (smart controller, another cooler, etc) then it all adds up, right?

But I don't hear much from the triple-lock guys much so I'll still have to wait.

winters comming so I got another 6 months at least.

 

[pwr2tow]

Goober,



I think the reason your not hearing from guys with other transmission parts is because you asked a specific question about a specific transmission and most guys just don't care to get into a mud slinging contest with the DTT guys anymore.



Since you stated your looking for other options in your last post here's mine.



I never have heating problems with my transmission and I can pull all the way down to 35MPH in lockup in third direct climbing any hill, thats the great thing about useing lockup instead of fluid coupleing, I could go slower useing my lockup mystery switch it all depends on the load I'am dragging behind. The only time the temps have got close to 200 degree (taken in the transmission line) is when I back into my yard at home and have to do it more than once, I had the same reading when the transmission was stock.



EDIT:: It doesn't matter to me who's transmission parts you go with, I get nothing for my advice and I know I got what was right for my situation.



Ron

 

[RedRamer]

Thanks Ron;

No, this was a DTT question.

I'll listen for the "other" guys, but I don't think thre's many of them yet, and I sure as heck not looking to start another one of those threads either.

I was thinking the mystery switch a while back, but there was a lot bad mouthing it plus I don't think it locks up 2nd unless I do mods to the VB.

Too bad as this would probably save me a custom transmission.

 

[pwr2tow]

The only thing bad about a mystery switch is you have to remember to turn it off and on, a controler will do it automatically for you but it costs money to buy and install.



For the HP and weights you are pulling (in your signature) a modified valve body is all you would need and for the cost of a few hundred bucks that's pretty cheep insurance, this is of course you are not intending to increase the HP.



Just about Any transmission company can modifiy the valve body to lock in 2nd, all you have to do is ask them.



Ron

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

Here is a mystery switch that you don't have to remember to turn off.



http://216.235.147.117/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54464



The TC is grounded (locked) when the boost is greater the pressure switch rating (6 or 15 psi). The TC is unlocked at low boost. This does not help if you want a locked TC for an exhaust brake. This is only good for climbing grades.