Here I am

Anyone using rail caps? Pros and cons?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Check Gage Light

Rail relief valve going bad

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thinking of trying a rail cap. But I'd like to know if anyone has dynoed just that part and if there has been any problems using one? At what point will the rail crack?
 
Blacksdieselhp said:
Thinking of trying a rail cap. But I'd like to know if anyone has dynoed just that part and if there has been any problems using one? At what point will the rail crack?



you wont have to worry about the rail cracking---the next weakest point is the injector body, the rail cap has been dynoed, it will provide about 30hp increase---because it increases pressure about 2-3000psi which is about 20-30hp. right now there are only a few using the railcap, this includes barry voltner of NADP and myself, and i think brett of II has one on his truck, and the guys of floor-it i think have them too, but im not sure. thanks Oo.
 
Diesel Power said:
it will provide about 30hp increase---because it increases pressure about 2-3000psi which is about 20-30hp.
You mean you can get 2-3K more over what the valve would bleed off while using a box right?



What you posted there sounds like you could cap a stock truck and get 20-30 hp but I thought that valve wouldn't open unless the FCA stuck open and it simply is a back up safety.
 
Last edited:
hi wade , we spoke tonight , so everything checked out on my truck and we spoke about it , if i did still install a rail cap would i gain 20 - 30 hp ? please let me know
 
So you all are just capping off the high pressure relief valve? What is the valve for ? Isn't it necessary?
 
The valve is to save the injectors in the event of a ultra high fuel pressure spike, or prolonged high pressure use. If you cap it off, everything the pump can offer will go to the injectors or bust the rail.
 
To replace the valve itself, it needs to have the same sealing pattern on the end as the relief valve or you will have a leak. Just a regular bolt won't seal well. You could take your bolt to a machinist and have them put this pattern on for a couple bucks.



A cheaper option would be to put on a relief valve that is already bad, or just write yours off, and replace the banjo on top with a solid bolt using a couple brass crush washers for the seal. It will fill with fuel and that will be the end of it.
 
ours is a lot different than that! ours eliminates the retirn line and provide some thing inbetween the cp3 and the filterhousing Oo. plus its cryo treated, so you can take it on and off as you want
 
Hi



Could some of you CR experts give me a hand or better yet, your knowledge? The CR pressure relief valve has a history of failure. I have been looking on the web for a few days to find out why.

This is what I've heard. (1) The spring weakens and looses its force (2) The seat and poppet become etched (3) The poppet tip breaks off

What have you guys experienced? Have you done any testing on the CR relief valve?



Thanks for helping me out.

Rob
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top