Anyone with a Loong trailer?

[Mopar_Mudder]

Looking for anyone personal experience with long gooseneck trailers and how they ride. I have a 40' tandem dually and it seems to do quiet a bit of bucking going down the road, and have alot of frame twist to it.



First I bought this trailer used and I know from looking at many new trialers it is not the heaviest best built one out their. But for the price I couldn't pass it up.



The main beams are 10" x 22 pound I-Beams, they seam a little close together to me. They could have been spaced another 8" apart and not gotten close to the tires. Also their is no "X" bracing of any sort between the I-Beams.



I have been thinking of many things. From trussing the bottom of the exsting I-Beam to replacing the existing I-Beam with a 12 or 14 inch. And widening the axles to get the beams further apart and a wider stance.



Just thinking out loud and looking for any opinions.

 

[Ray Torresdal]

cost?

By the time you put that much time and effort into it, you might as well check on a new H&H trailer, and try sell the one you have. If you want to see how heavy duty is done, at least look at H&H to get ideas for stiffening yours.



Ray

 

[y-knot]

I have been pulling enclosed (car haulers) for awhile, from 94-2001 I pulled a 30' tag tri/axle 102" wide 6'6" high. It pulled very nice for a tag unit, never notice any frame twist or unusual tracking, It was an AMARICAN EAGLE and I liked it. 2002-present I pull a 36' gooseneck, it has a kodiak front end, 102" wide 7' tall in front, sprint car roof 8'6" tall rear. It's a haulmark EDGE series and is built very well. It too is a tri-axle, and I have no problems at all with the way it tracks, to date it has to be the best trailer I have ever pulled. It's heavey (13,000lbs. loaded) but very stabile. On trailers not only is the main beams important, but also floor beams and their spacing as well as wall beams and their spacing, seams like better trailers are 16 or 12" on center.

also I have found that on longer trailers, a tri-axle works the best.

Trailers are a dine a dozen, and you truely get what you pay for, I think most people only consider the $ when looking at a trailer. Hey, why did be all plop down $5,000 exrta dollars when we bought our rams? There are so many trailer makers, and for the most part it's an unregulated industry, the quality and integrity varies greatly.

 

[bmoeller]

Depending on how much weight you pull, this http://www.etrailer.com/z-CG.asp would help ALOT.





Here are some more places to look- http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=cushioned+gooseneck+hitches&ei=UTF-8&fr=fp-top

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Y-Knot



I should have mensioned that this is an open trailer not enclosed. With the enclosed you have a little different deal in that the side walls add some strength to the unit. Also I considered the tri axle but in many situations I have to turn and back very sharp with this thing and have had many people tell me of rolling tires of their tri axles when jack knifing them, that would be no good.





bmoeller



I love the idea of that hitch, it would help things I think. Too bad that I pull around 22,000# trailer and load with this thing



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[clem]

Tri-axles trailers are no problem they can turn as hard as you want them to. They do not slide any more or less it just looks that way

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Tell that to the guy that lost a tire in our gravel yard a month ago or so



Also you loose 3,000# with the tri-axle, I have the 12,000# axles.

 

[clem]

There is more than one set up and a lot of diff tires and wheels

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

I have a 30 foot GN Beg Tex. It is rated for 22,500 lbs on the deck. There is no problem with bucking or flex. It does have the truss under the I Beam and the I beams are 12x 22 lb. If you want, I can send you some pictures of the way they put on the I beam. I bet you could do that for under $200.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Pictures of the truss and any bracing would be great. I have looked on many trialer sites but detailed pictures of such things are few and far between.



I also had a thought of seeing how short of an I-Beam I can get and just weld to the bottom of the existing one. But trussing would add less weight to it.



I can stick about $5000 into this on and still be less then a new one.

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

PM me your email address and I will send some to you this weekend.