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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Anyone with a picture of pryo probe location

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2002 2500's on Dealer Lot

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FP gauge

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I did a search, but I can't seem to find a picture of the "optimum" spot to drill and tap the hole for the thermocouple proble. I did find lots of info on how to keep the shavings out, just not where to put it.



Can anyone direct me to the location of this information???
 
I'll take a digital shot of mine this afternoon after work and post it here and/or e-mail it to you. Let me know if you still need it.



John
 
Drilling Manifold fo r probe.

Last week I installed my gauge in the manifold. Yesterday I was talking with a dealer and he informed me that your warranty is gone if you drill the manifold. With so many cracking which is covered it might deserve thinking about.
 
typical dealer BS

The sooner mine cracks the better, then I get to install an ATS manifold. Why in heck would anyone want another factory manifold?:confused:



And weigh the cost/benefit. No drill, then dealer might replace manifold IF he can't wiggle out some other way. Drill and _I_ get to manage my air/fuel ratios in a way that prevents melting pistons. hmmmm, no-brainer for me.



That dealer will probably tell you that using a Piers bolt for the boost gauge and tapping into to the fuel system for FP gauge will void your warranty as well. :eek:



I vote for another dealer.



and I'm yelling at the dealer, not you Mike.
 
Re: Drilling Manifold fo r probe.

Originally posted by MikeC

Last week I installed my gauge in the manifold. Yesterday I was talking with a dealer and he informed me that your warranty is gone if you drill the manifold. With so many cracking which is covered it might deserve thinking about.



That stealer is F. O. S. !!!#@$%! #@$%! I would stay far away from that place... . :mad:

Run, run away!!!!:D
 
optimum location is downstream 1-1. 5 inches from the turbo exhaust impeller, this will whow what the turbo is blowing out into the exhaust system, your exhaust temp will change between the exhaust manifold and the turbo discharge. .
 
Egt probe location

I believe that you are going to get a whole big fur ball going here by claiming post turbo is optimal location.....



I have had both pre turbo in the exhaust manifold and post turbo as you have described. .



For my purposes I like the pre turbo better as I get instant and truer response when towing. Having the probe mounted downstream of the turbo allows the gases to cool and will not give as accurate reading of instantaneous EGT's. If all you are concerned about is shutdown EGT than there will be no harm in locating the probe as you have done.



Optimal? Maybe, depending on what info you want from your probe. .



Cheers, Bill
 
Install the Pyro TC in the manifold to monitor EGT to keep form melting pistons. Max EGT pre turbo is 1250F. I would recomend the forward three cylinders whith engines with HX series turbos. Engines with HY series turbos it really does not matter which three cylinders you monitor



Mount the Pyro TC post turbo to monitor EGT for cooldown and the optimum time to shut the engine off to prevent oil cokeing in the turbo... shut down temp should be less than 350F.





MikeC, run form that dealer as fast as you can!



barry kelderman, um, read the above post!
 
I am about to do the guage thing and not wanting to void anything I asked the stealership if they would install the guages. They said "no problem". I talked to the diesel tech about what to monitor and type of guages. He was in TOTAL agreement of monitoring egt/boost/fp/trany temp/engine oil pressure (he does NOT trust the dash guage system!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). He however want to do mechanical guages and I prefer electric so we are "discussing" that one. However, I feel that if a DC tech does the install I have a pretty good leg to stand on for any warantee discussion. Ideas?
 
geesh, i only did what the autometer pyrometer instructions told me to do by placing it right after the exhaust impeller...



I knew i shouldn't have read the instructions, i never do otherwise...



The heaviest thing i pull is my camper at 3500 pounds and my boat is around 3000 pounds so i hope i never have to worry about high exhaust temps anyway and i dont ever pull them together. .
 
rweis, your mechanic is smart, mechanical gauges are the only way to go. Most times when you get a warning reading from an electric gauge it's the fault of the gauge/sender/wiring not the system you are monitoring. Mechanical gauges are much more reliable and are leak proof when installed correctly.
 
Originally posted by barry kelderman geesh, i only did what the autometer pyrometer instructions told me to do by placing it right after the exhaust impeller...



Well in that case you are forgiven. :p But if you enhance the fuel delivery system, you'd be wise to add a pre-turbo thermocouple. I feel way more comfortable watching my max EGT's accurately than my cool-down EGT's with less precision.



The reason your instructions were written that way is that 90% of the pyros on the road are in big trucks and they generally always measure post temps.



The big thing to remember here is that your post temps are going to be much lower and react slower to increased combustion temps. So I'd lift sooner as post EGT's neared the "max" level.



Some of us pre turbo guys (not me--yet) will go WAY over the 1300F mark for very short periods of time--and seem to get away with it. I don't have enough fuel to say how long I feel comfy in the RED zone. That may change tomorrow! :D
 
If I get one of those digital guages with two readouts per guage (dont remember the brand), is it good to put one pre and post turbo? Then you could monitor both places. Anybody do that?? Are these type of guages reliable and accurate??
 
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