Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) APS Problems

[CAfricano]

I have had alot of trouble with my torque converter cycling in and out. I have added grounds, regrounded the PCM, reset the APS, and added a DTS filter. The problem came back, but with less duration and intensity. I have been told a bad APS can cause this also. I didn't get any codes on my cheapo code scanner, but I brough it by a reputable shop and they got a bad APS code. It was cleared, and my truck ran fine for a while. Not only did the torque converter cycling come back, but I also completely lost my pedal. The truck would idle, but give it gas and nothing. I turned it off, check the codes with my cheapo, and got a bad APS code. I cleared the code, and the truck ran fine. Did it again 20 minutes later, cleared it again. Called Cummins, who said thet had a new one in stock. Got there, wrong part #. They only sell the whole bellcrank assembly now, and it is $374. 00. I went home and removed my APS, cleaned the connections, added dielectric grease, then reinstalled. I couldn't get my voltmeter to work, so I reinstalled it in the same exact spot without adjusting. Truck runs great, except the converter is still cycling in and out. Removing the battery cables and resetting the APS with the pedal works as a temporary fix, but it always comes back. With several extra grounds, and the DTS filter, does all this still point to a bad APS? I had it replaced about 120,000 miles ago. Is it time again? Thanks.



2001 4x4 QC, Auto, FASS, Westach Guages, Bullydog TD

 

[PC12Driver]

I replaced mine at about 85k miles because it was getting noisy. Yours could very well be gone @ 120k.



Kinda like twisting the volume knob back and forth on a radio to get rid of the "scratch" in the potentiometer, when you fan the pedal to the floor and back you will temporarily clean some of the dust/corrosion off the brushes in the APPS. This is probably what is happening when you "reset" the APPS with the pedal and it works for a while afterwards.



Looks like it's time for a new APPS. I got mine at Hoesli Diesel for a pretty good price.

 

[CAfricano]

I adjusted the APS voltage and so far so good. The blue/orange wire read . 65v and the tag on my APS says . 62v. I adjusted it until voltages matched and did not do the pedal APS reset. Thought I'd try this before I spent $355. 00.

 

[CAfricano]

Came back. I am going to replace the APS.

 

[Dachenbach]

Did the new APS fix your torque converter issue? My '99 is doing the same thing. There's a TSB flash out there which is supposed to fix the issue. I tried it but it didn't help.

 

[Joe Mc]

Dachenbach - before you throw $355 at the truck try reseting the APPS. My 99 did the same thing as CAFricano's until I reset the APPS - this lasted about 2 months then came back. I got the DTT noise filter and it's never reared the hunting in and out of OD which occures between 40 -45 or so at an easy cruise. That was more than 2 years ago.

 

[Dachenbach]

When you talk about resetting the APPS, are you referring to the procedure using a voltmeter checking the output voltage against the voltage listed on the APPS tag? Also, where can you buy a DTT filter?

 

[rweis]

I had an APPS problem about a year ago. Did the DTT instructions for resetting it (voltmeter method) worked fine. I also got the filter from DTT and installed it. Zero problems.



Search for the noise filter, some have made their own. I prefer the DTT solution.



Bob Weis

 

[Graphic man]

DTT



http://www.dieseltrans.com/

 

[2-ND TIME]

cumins junk

Sorry to be a Luddite but, were on the site do I find the filter? Not interested in the testemonials. It is interesting but this with the 3 rd vp the fueling starts at the one line at the 1400 rpm mark. Yesterday I got 9 lbs boost in 2nd gear and 11 in 3rd gear. You can tell that the fueling is being cut back by 2200 rpm. I hate being beaten by vans but this is normal. My apps setting was 0. 330 VDC not the stated 0. 468 VDC That helped the sort of acceleration for awhile.

 

[CAfricano]

I haven't gotten my new APPS yet. Probably today. After I install it, I assume I have to set the voltage to match the tag, correct? Or do I just use the ignition / pedal method?

 

[PC12Driver]

The ignition/pedal method teaches the ECM the new APPS voltage and applies to both manual trannys and automatics.



The reclocking method (voltage match) calibrates the APPS voltage with what the PCM expects so it can shift the auto properly, and does not apply to manuals.



So for the auto, do both.

 

[DMannon]

Sorry to be a Luddite but, were on the site do I find the filter?

Look on the Price List page, under TRANSMISSIONS & COMPONENTS, you'll see Noise Filter right under Voltage Regulator...

 

[Joe Mc]

When you talk about resetting the APPS, are you referring to the procedure using a voltmeter checking the output voltage against the voltage listed on the APPS tag? Also, where can you buy a DTT filter?

No, I'm talking about disconnecting both batteries for at least an hour, reconnect them, turn key to on positon (do not start) slowly push go pedal all the way to the floor (slow is the key here), slowly release do pedal. Turn key off, then start as you normaly would.