ARB Air Locker / E-Locker questions

[Bernie]

I have a 2003 Ram 2500 with a six speed manual I am building in to an overland style camping truck. I was going to add an ARB air locker, but then I remembered Dodge offered a E-Locker in later years.

I am running 35" tires, and a small lift. Rear springs are currently stock but when I get the build done I will weigh the vehicle at each corner and have Alcan springs made for my as built weight. I have air bags to stiffen things up to tow.

-Looking for any experience / advice on the ARB set up (and as a note, I'll have an air compressor either way for the tires, so that won't be part of the decision)

-Pros and Cons of the air locker?

-Is there an E-locker that will fit my current axle? Not really looking to swap axles (unless it was an easy swap with out a lot of fab).

-Pros and Cons of the E-locker?

-I will still be towing from time to time, so durability towing will be a factor as well.

Thanks!

 

[AH64ID]

Since the current power wagon uses the 11.5” axle the e-locker from AAM should fit.

The biggest advantage I can think of for the e-locker is that it’s a helical gear LSD when unlocked. The ARB is open when unlocked. Both are better than a clutch style LSD.

I ran an ARB years ago in a Toyota for off-road use. Great locker. If I were to lock my Ram it would be with the AAM unit.

 

[Ozymandias]

I'm doing the overlander thing for more then twenty years now and came a long way.

In the past I way overbuilt my vehicles, like you are doing now from what I see.

A real overlander vehicle stays as close to stock as possible because you want to be be able to source spare parts when needed and that can be challenging even with OEM parts. Specialty parts source often only from one single vendor or in worst case are not longer available. Bad thing to end up stuck for weeks waiting for parts to arrive.

Next point is driving habits.
With your (only!) Home on the back of your truck you simply don't drive to risky roads/tracks/trails. There is no need to build a trail goat, it's your home and not the weekend warrior looking for thrill.

35" tires are a great choice, NO lift at all is an even better choice because it's lowering the chance for a roll over and your vehicle fits easier into thighs spaces like ferries/under bridges/into sea containers for shipping.

Air bags are fun for daily usage but you want steel springs that can carry the weight of the fully loaded vehicle.
Rule #1 - overlander vehicles ALWAYS end up way heavier then expected because we continuous add weight over the time. 1000lbs more is a good rule of thumb.

I conclude this with the answer to your question - in run Truetrac front and rear after I had manual lockers in previous vehicles.

KISS is your best friend building an overland vehicle.

 

[Bernie]

Since the current power wagon uses the 11.5” axle the e-locker from AAM should fit.

The biggest advantage I can think of for the e-locker is that it’s a helical gear LSD when unlocked.

Great point. This is great info. Thanks.

 

[CVR222NV]

I conclude this with the answer to your question - in run Truetrac front and rear after I had manual lockers in previous vehicles.

I defer to Ozy on Overland builds as he is this Forum's most experienced Overlander having come from Switzerland to travel all over North America numerous times. While I wouldn't classify myself as a Overlander I do regularly operate in very remote and rough country (Eastern and Central Nevada) where dependability is the main concern. I have been running Eaton Detroit Truetracs front and rear for around four years now and consider them to be the best modification I have made to my truck. I take great comfort in knowing when I lock my hubs I will have traction at all four corners right up until the time I bury it to the frame (ask me how I know!). The advantage of the Truetrac is drivability, there when you need it, not when you don't, all mechanical, no air or electric to fail. As Ozy states: Simple!

That said I don't have a lot of experience with a locker but did recently purchase a 2011 FJ Cruiser with a rear differential lock feature. I did test it once so far and it did work as expected up a straight very steep and rutted section of loose and rocky road. As part of my ownership of the FJ I have become a member of the FJ Cruiser Forum and the consensus there from the rock crawling (Moab) crowd is that the elocker works best on straight trails but that there are drivability issues when you get on winding rocky trails. I would think the drivability characteristics of the locker are of more concern in the front differential. I would thoroughly research this issue before making a decision on which way to go.

 

[GrantP]

I've run True Trac's in several of the 4x4's that I've had and I can't complain about them at all. They do a good job off road and have great pavement manners. Given the choice though, I'd run the E-Locker. I understand the KISS philosophy, but in the event of some electrical problem with the E-locker, it's failure mode is to act as a limited slip. The E-locker is much simpler than an ARB setup, and if the ARB were to fail you're left with a near useless open diff.

Things have to get pretty nasty before I need a locker that allows zero differentiation as both the E-locker and ARB do when engaged, but I have needed it and found myself at the merciful end of a winch cable because I didn't have it. I wasn't out looking for bragging rights on a difficult trail or a challenging obstacle, the challenge found me in the form of a bad blizzard I was caught in on a hunting trip. E-lockers front and rear are the golden ticket for me. The only advantage I can see with the True Trac over the E-Locker is the price.

 

[CVR222NV]

merciful end of a winch cable

I would recommend a winch regardless of the setup you choose and for these trucks I would get the biggest winch available because when you get a 5 ton truck hopelessly stuck you will need every bit of that pulling power plus a good snatch block if you are pulling off of the top of the spool.

 

[GrantP]

Agreed. I have a Warn M12000 gathering dust in my garage, I just haven't figured out a mounting system I like yet.

 

[MPalachuk]

There is 2 different e-lockers. One is made by Eaton and it is open or locked, The second one is made by auburn and it is limited slip or locked.

 

[GrantP]

There is 2 different e-lockers. One is made by Eaton and it is open or locked, The second one is made by auburn and it is limited slip or locked.

Thanks for the correction, that does change things. Two downsides to the Auburn, it uses a clutch type LSD and as far as I can tell is not available for our AAM axles. The Eaton is locked or open like the ARB. That basically leaves the Truetrac for the win. Someday someone will create the perfect diff solution...

 

[AH64ID]

The AAM part number for the LSD/e-locker on the 10.5" axle is 40047275, I am still searching for the one used on the new powerwagons with the 11.5" axle.

EDIT: I am just finding the MOPAR part numbers and they are cost prohibitive. ebay or junk yard?

68237726AB - ACTUATOR-AXLE LOCKER - List $414.00
68237725AB - CASE-DIFFERENTIAL - List $3285.00

 

[Bernie]

I have 220k miles, so I am less worried about having "authentic" Mopar parts a this point. I like when it is a part like what Dodge uses, or from the same vendor as Dodge uses, but I don't need the box to say Mopar.

The Auburn appears to be my most cost effective of any of the solutions, but I will likely go with the Eaton solution (as that is what Doge uses in the Power Wagons).

 

[Bernie]

The Auburn appears to be my most cost effective of any of the solutions, but I will likely go with the Eaton solution (as that is what Doge uses in the Power Wagons).

Hmm....I'm not so sure Auburn has a diff for the 11.5" AAM axle, so Eaton may be the only choice. I have emailed them I will let you know.

 

[bigceltic]

Hmm....I'm not so sure Auburn has a diff for the 11.5" AAM axle, so Eaton may be the only choice. I have emailed them I will let you know.

I am looking to put the Eaton Tru-Trac in my front axle at some point and just for a data point, the local 4 Wheel Parts store quoted me $1501.84 for parts + install.

 

[Bernie]

I have a new question (maybe should be a new post): Front or rear locker?

OK, I asked earlier about E-Locker or Air Locker, and I got some good information. However, I now have a new question: If I can only afford one at this time, should I do the front or the rear? A friend of mine that does a lot of Jeep offroading suggestions the front, as it will pull you over obstacles instead of relaying on the rear to push the front over obstacles. Seems reasonable but any other thoughts ore real world experience?

 

[AH64ID]

If you have the OEM LSD in the rear and can only do one do the front.

 

[Bernie]

If you have the OEM LSD in the rear and can only do one do the front.

This was interesting:

Here is a video of guy with a triple-locked truck turning them on and off to demonstrate. Take a look.

 

[Ozymandias]

The axle that has more weight on it wants the locker.

And don't compare Apples and Pears.
Again, an Overlander Rig is not a Trail Goat.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

35" tires are a great choice, NO lift at all is an even better choice because it's lowering the chance for a roll over and your vehicle fits easier into thighs spaces like ferries/under bridges/into sea containers for shipping.

Can 35s clear lock to lock on stock suspension height with factory steel 17s?

 

[Ozymandias]

Can 35s clear lock to lock on stock suspension height with factory steel 17s?

Almost, an itttibitty touch on the upper control arm at full lock, going back 4 fingers wide at the steering wheel nothing touches.
I'm running that size right now.