Here I am

Are Airaid air filter any good.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Boost too high!!

2006 4x4 dually

Status
Not open for further replies.
The underhood is much hotter than ambient thou, and 3rd gens run much cooler intake air temps than 2nd gens, and doesn't Gary have a 2nd gen? Just stating that if you compare under-hood to intake it will be much closer on a 2nd gen. Stock I ran about 15-45* above ambient depending on load, with the home depot CAI and GDP horn it dropped to 6-45* over ambient, normally 6-20*. . now with the Garrett it runs 5-25* over!!! I don't think it could be anywhere near that low pulling air from the engine bay, but then again maybe its not enough to worry about.









And this makes a difference how? What benefit does it get you?
 
Cooler air is more dense, which provides for better combustion and lower EGT's. For every 1* rise/reduction in IAT's you get a 1. 5* change in EGT's on 3rd gens. So if your intake air is 30* warmer based on where it pulls its air from (arbitrary number) then you have 45* higher EGT's for the same fuel/boost.

But I have never seen IAT numbers from a setup like yours, so its hard to say just how much of a difference it makes, and at what speed it's the same. But for the less that $20 a home deopt CAI costs I know it makes a good difference especially at slow speeds.

And on the 2nd gen part the IAT temps (if he compared them to under-hood) read much higher because of the location on the MAP sensor. I am trying to find a thread, but recall that +35 is normal on a 2nd gen, one reason BHAF's don't make much of a difference on IAT's for them. I only hit +35 on my truck if I am at sustained boost over 30, and that was with the stock turbo, I haven't exceeded +25 on the new turbo.
 
Last edited:
There must be a good reason why all cars and trucks are designed to draw outside cooler air than inside under the hood warmer air.



I totally agree with AH64ID theory.
 
The underhood is much hotter than ambient thou,



That was the concept that Gary disproved with the testing. The actual underhood temps above 20 mph or so were not that much different than ambient. Under 20 or even 30 mph is simply not a factor as very little time is spent at those speeds and the load is minimal.



IAT's are much more affected by the turbo compressor, CAC efficiency, and air flow than the ambient temp. The actual air intake temp can be quite broad and still produce the same IAT readings.



The 3rd gens are much more friendly to the BHAF installs and using under hood air to get away from the high restrctions because of the filter placement, same as the 1st gens. At speed, there is simply no way the air temps are much higher than ambient directly behind the headlights. The amount of air flow thru the rad support, around the hood, etc, negate engine heat. The body design and air dam create an area of low pressure under the truck that pulls heated air from the engine compartment nicely.
 
i got over 40 mpg once with my truck.

i followed (drafted) a motorhome down hill for 100 miles with a strong tailwind. ;-)

i used a k&n on my old dodge. besides needing the extra oil wiped up the day after cleaning. i found dust on the inside of the filter housing, after driving on very dusty roads/trails.
 
That was the concept that Gary disproved with the testing. The actual underhood temps above 20 mph or so were not that much different than ambient. Under 20 or even 30 mph is simply not a factor as very little time is spent at those speeds and the load is minimal.



It depends on how you use it. I see a fair amount of time between 20-30, and the HD CAI made a difference in IATs, as did the turbo/manifold blankets.



I know my underhood temps are way down, there is no huge heat blast when opening the hood.



IAT's are much more affected by the turbo compressor, CAC efficiency, and air flow than the ambient temp. The actual air intake temp can be quite broad and still produce the same IAT readings.



I agree, but why not start cooler? The stock setup ran about 15-40 over ambient. With the cam it ran about 15-45 over, then with the HD CAI/GDP horn it ran about 6-40 over. . Now with the manifold/turbo blankets and new turbo it runs 5-30 over ambient. Slow speed IAT's are down about 10* with the new setup, and I am not sure if its the turbo or the blankets, but I like it.



The 3rd gens are much more friendly to the BHAF installs and using under hood air to get away from the high restrctions because of the filter placement, same as the 1st gens. At speed, there is simply no way the air temps are much higher than ambient directly behind the headlights. The amount of air flow thru the rad support, around the hood, etc, negate engine heat. The body design and air dam create an area of low pressure under the truck that pulls heated air from the engine compartment nicely.



If you just look at cruising then yes, but I do a lot of slow speed towing so I don't think they are better. If you run twins or a large single you just can't move enough air thru the stock setup so it's not an option, but sub 450 rwhp the stock setup is easily modified to provide plenty of cool air.
 
I still want to know how a CAI (COLD Air Intake) makes the air significantly colder than the OE configuration... and how does dense air become significantly denser than normal air when its subjected to a compressor?



Again, I have real world results with my setup, almost 200k worth; and I have seen zero negatives. I get as good (and in many cases, better) mileage than most, my EGTs are normal... and I get to use an OE approved filter! My setup is obviously not working...



I can't add any more... I use what works for me. When my truck spills its guts on the road, then I'll reconsider.
 
Based on what I have seen you can get a little colder than stock with a modified stock setup, but I doubt a CAI can get any colder. . There is only 5-10° to play with on my setup when not towing, and when towing its not the intake that effects the temps.
 
I have the Banks Ram Air and I wiped a paper towel after the filter and picked up dust. Where could I get a replacement stock housing as it was modified when I bought it?
 
Salvage yard?



Or the classifieds or eBay...



I actually have one, somewhere. JohnDodge: how soon do you need it? I think its sitting at my parents, but it will be several weeks before I get there. Its the factory 04. 5 box (just the box). I bought one off an 03 to modify, and kept the 04. 5 one in case I needed it, and at nearly 250k; I doubt I'll be needing it.



Contact me if interested...
 
Ha i am only going by my millage sensor overhead readings. & The fact with a new factory filter from the dealer & all my service records about bad millage. The air filter indicator on the air box would pull in about a 1/6'' of an inch. When i changed to The AFE filter my reading went from 12& 15 mpg to 19 & 20. Look back on TDR old arcive When i first got my truck i was asking if everybody got crappy millage.



I though that TDR is all about if you find something that works share it!
 
Ha i am only going by my millage sensor overhead readings.



I though that TDR is all about if you find something that works share it!



Ok, let me share something with you: the over head is called a Lie-O-Meter for a reason. ;)



Mine will read 23-24 mpg cruisng at 70 mph. It hand calcs at 18-19 consistently. All I have is the stock box with extra holes drilled in it and an OE filter. It doesn't pull the filter minder down even at 40 psi boost.
 
Ha i am only going by my millage sensor overhead readings. & The fact with a new factory filter from the dealer & all my service records about bad millage. The air filter indicator on the air box would pull in about a 1/6'' of an inch. When i changed to The AFE filter my reading went from 12& 15 mpg to 19 & 20. Look back on TDR old arcive When i first got my truck i was asking if everybody got crappy millage.



I though that TDR is all about if you find something that works share it!





I agree with cerberusiam, There's a huge difference between the overhead reading and hand calculating.



I really don't even pay attention to the overhead reading anymore.
 
Does anybody know for sure why some meters read high and some are reasonably close? I know having aftermarket tuning messes with them, but when my truck was bone stock, it was still WAY off! Makes me wonder if there may be an injector issue somewhere, since I would think that all the programming would be similar. . anybody know for sure?
 
Its all based off sensors... if you have a couple sensors reading on the high side (of the normal range) then the computer is going to think its running more efficient than it is. I have said this for years, this is the main reason for the mileage spread on these trucks... why some get great mileage while others suck.
 
mine is real close to hand calc, on long trips.
otherwise regen causes my mileage to be lower than the lie-o-meter...
in town and slow driving i notice my truck re-gens more often, i don't think the lie-o-meter computes the mileage properly during the regen process.
 
I figured the numbers were close & the jump in the trip meter could have been a fluke. but my increase in millage between fill ups had jumped allmost 200 miles. OR Maybe my truck just needed to coff up a fur ball. anyway everybodys input is allways good.

While we are on the subject of millage has anyone herd of G Force chip & you all will like this it is suppose to get 4 to 6 mpg or your money back. . Give it to me!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top