Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Are my new mods suppose to be this loud??

[Clmsnow]

Just got out of the garage, double and triple checking everything. I did find something!!

The wastegate rod is hard up against the oil return line. I remember it being a tight fit getting the oil line in there and when looking at it a minute ago I realized they were right on top of each other. What is the best way around this??? That line doesn't bend or give and I don't want to put a kink in it. Seems like a bad design on someone's part... I think.

 

[RacinDuallie]

And- are you sure the wastegate rod is clear and not rubbing against anything?

Clmsnow-
AAAAAAAHHHHH HHHHHAAAAAA!!!
Grasshopper I asked you this waaaaaay back on post # 27... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Look at the location on where it's rubbing, take a marker and mark along the return pipe the general areas where it's rubbing-Take the oil return pipe back off,lay it on a hard surface and give it a couple of whacks with a heavy hammer to tweak it out of the way- now Grasshopper don't smash the pipe down like a crushed soda can, just enough to have that rod be clear- it may take some time be careful not to hit it out of shape too hard- all your looking to do is provde a little clearance in the area of the rod.
That return pipe won't ever be completely full of oil unless there is a blockage in the pipe so all your looking to do is place a couple of well placed 'dents' in the pipe for clearance... ... .....

I find that a smaller ball-peen hammer placed in the area needing the 'adjustment' then take a heavier hammer to wack the ball peen hammer works good... ... ...

 

[Clmsnow]

See, this is why I have problems... I don't listen the first time..... isn't this like the third time still a young grasshopper!! I'll do like you said and get my sledge hammer out and beat the h_ll out of it tonight..... I mean lightly tap it. How has this been affecting things?

 

[RacinDuallie]

Well let's say they have the wastegate set to open at 37psi(example) o. k. ?

Now your situation is the oil return pipe is rubbing up against the rod, that rod is supposed to move when psi is reached- but yours is rubbing... . that rubbing is basically altering the time it's supposed to open, and it's probally not allowing it to open fully-if at all ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .....


another example:
Put your finger over an open air line with pressure... ... . see how much effort it takes to stop the air from pouring out... . @ 37 pounds not much effort- and you have that return pipe rubbing the rod there- so guesstimate how much 'more' effort it's gonna take to open it now because of that rubbing, and the slight rubbing could now mean that wastegate won't open until say 57psi because of that rubbing its gonna take more effort(or psi) to compensate for the friction or rubbing... ... ... ... ... . :{


you following me?

We want are wastegate to open freely, when they are supposed to open- results should be seen on your egt gauge(lifelines-remember?)

 

[Lsfarm]

Maybe more important?

The boost air pressure will [should] eventually overcome the fricton of the wastegate rod/oil line friction. But with only the spring to return the wastegate to the closed position, it may be sticking open for a while before it closes.



If the wastegate sticks open you will have unbelievable amounts of smoke and very high EGTs and either no boost or very laggy, late boost. Did I say lots of smoke??? :-laf



Sticking closed= higher boost, more backpressure/drive pressure, higher EGT's but only at very high fueling and rpm



Sticking open wastegate= unbelievable smoke, very high EGTs, so laggy you can't stand to drive it.



Take an air hose with a blow-gun attached and pressurize the line to the wastegate actuator, the WG should open and slam back shut when the air is released. Dent the oil return line just enough to provide clearance.



Depending on the geometry of the WG actuator, the rod, and the arm on the wastegate itself the rod may only be touching the oil return line, it is much easir to air-test the action than removing the oil line. I'd try this first then get out the hammers if needed



Greg L

 

[RacinDuallie]

I've seen them return pipes up against that wastegate rod preventing NO movement whatsoever... ... ... .....

Hence the hammer tactics for clearancing


Greg,

wouldnt' a 'regulated' air source be a better choice than an air- blow gun? Blow gun will deliver whatever psi is coming from air source let's say you have a compressor that delivers 125psi... ... . if you can put an in line-gauged regulator before the blow gun then you can regulate air psi down to or very close to where the wastegate adjustment is set... ... .....

better to see if it opens with the psi set to near the wastegate rather than blasting it open with 100+ psi? no?

 

[Clmsnow]

Funny thing is, it has been smoking quite a bit and seems very laggy in my opinion. I'll tear into this afternoon and report back. With that done, and the pusher pump, I expect it to run much better.

 

[RacinDuallie]

You know- this has turned out to be a pretty good thread here!(IMHO) it should be a good resourse for other new guys looking to take on this task.....

Grasshopper -take before and after- full lifeline readings... .


that way you can report the differences in your lifelines after clearancing... ... ... o. k. ?

 

[Clmsnow]

Will do... on what level??? I was thinking level 3x5 and 3x3.

 

[RacinDuallie]

Try something like 3x5- that was your usual setting from the 'old turbo' right ? Go with that your street setting... . Boost- Fuel-E. G. T. 's before and after... ... . And don't forget to pay attention to the road too... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .

 

[Lsfarm]

Don't use a tight connection

I usually just use a rubber tipped blow gun and more or less mate the rubber hose with the rubber tip and let it leak as much as it wants to. All I'm looking for is free movement of the wastegate and linkage.



A regulated source would be nice to check where the 'gate is set to open but I'm much more concerned that the linkage is either jammed or hanging up and not allowing the gate flapper to close.





Greg L

 

[Clmsnow]

I got the wastergate rod taken care of but didn't take it out yet. Was going to start on the fuel pump but realized I needed a little hose and a few clamps. Hitting it first thing tomorrow morning. Prior to fixing the wastegate rod I was starting to realize that this thing comes on real strong at about 2000rpm or 15-17psi boost. Curious to see tomorrow how it does. I was hitting 34psi just on level 2x1 this afternoon. I'll report back tomorrow night!

 

[RacinDuallie]

Coolness
:-laf :-laf How's the ssssssssssssounds?

 

[Clmsnow]

Here's the preliminary report. Got the pump on late yesterday afternoon. Ran into a few small problems, but overall it went on rather well. Heck, that darn thing is loud too Anyways, FP at idle is 20, with the box turned up it won't go down about 9-10. Really happy with that one. Truck seems to be running real well. On 3x5 readings were, 1135* EGT, 34. 6 psi boost and FP would go down to 9-10. Truck seems real fast. Almost seems like so smoke cleared up, but then again I did free the waste gate rod of the oil return. Took off the intercooler line and double check everything so that oise is simply the new turbo. I made on run on 5x5 but not good enough to give solid numbers. I make plenty of runs today... going to double check everything on the pump one more time and then let her rip. I'l report back with numbers tonight. Fuuny thing is, now my buddy that helped me yesterday with the Durmax doesn't want to race

 

[PC12Driver]

Your egt's are sweet. My Hybrid 35/40-14 with a cam will still hit 1200* on level 3.



Did the pusher kit come with any larger fittings for downstream of the factory lift pump or was everything installed between the lp and the tank?

 

[Clmsnow]

Did a little mopre testing today. Ran it on 5x5 a little on the freeway but not for very long. The highest I hit was 1233*EGT and 37psi boost, FP was 9. Overall seems real good. I have a leak on the oil return line from the turbo. After putting it back on and off several times trying to get it to clear the waste gate rod I ended up messing up the gasket. I took it off tonight and tried to piece it back together as good as possible and put silicon all around it. I'll see if it leaks again in the morning. I'll order a new gasket or can I just buy that anywhere? Any problem if I run it for a couple days before fixing it? Everything else looks real good, double checked all the lines on the pusher pump(which only came with fittings for the pump and I put fuel line between it and the factory lines). I put the pump right in front of the tank. The instructions said something about putting a fuel filter between it and the tank but I didn't. More results tomorrow... and by the way, that turbo is getting louder... pushed it pretty good on the way up to Lake Tahoe today... only on level 2x1... my daily driver setting.

 

[RacinDuallie]

Clmsnow,
Sounds like everything is perfect-o now... . wastegate rod cleared now, Fuel pressure is dead on perfect, EGT's sound perfect, boost numbers good... ... ... .....

Wasn't that big of a job after all- now wasn't it?

I'll bet after you hit 15 psi that sucker starts to scream nicely... .....

How is that surging(barking) now that you have the pusher installed? Your foot get a handle on things there?:-laf :-laf

Good job!

 

[PC12Driver]

If the new turbo uses the Cummins drain gasket, it's Cummins P/N 3914388 and you can get it at most truck parts stores/dealers or Case/IH tractor dealers. It's cheap ($0. 76), so you should probably do it right and not worry about it.



The 9psi FP seems kinda disapointing. Safe, but not great. I can keep 10psi with just line upgrades and a factory pump. That's why I asked above about upgrading the lines downstream of the pump. Maybe upgrade the banjos if you're looking for a bit more?



EGT-wise, you've got some headroom if you're thinking about taking HTT's advice and trying the 12cm housing. Going from a 12cm to a 16cm housing on a Holset is good for a 150* difference, so I don't think you'll see much of an increase going from 14cm to 12cm (I know they're different brands - should be close though). Even if you gain 100* that still only puts you at 1350*, which is still very safe for short high speed blasts. And you'll gain quicker spool, less smoke, and lower temps everywhere else.

 

[rivercat]

clemsnow with your pusher did you run -6 or -8?



just a theory me and RD have about -6 not helping much

 

[Clmsnow]

NOt sure which pusher it is... a Carter is about all I know. As for the barking, having heard it in awhile. I'm still playing with it, I'l get some better numbers through the day and week. Once I know exactly what my EGT's are on 5x5, I may consider the 12cm housing... depends how much room I have to play with regarding the EGT's.