Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) are you kidding me?!?!?

[KPorchia]

changed the fuel filter, same story as everyone before. Filled the canister, bled the feed to the vp44, no start. Changed the lift pump. Bumped the starter 10,000 times. Re-bled the feed. Bled the injector lines to #'s 1,3,4. Sputter, sputter, surging, stall. Now nothing at all. Truck ran like a top before. I am ready to set this thing on fire. And anything that says Dodge. Never thought a fuel filter would turn into a 5 day project.

Sorry just needed to vent.

 

[JApol]

can you hear the lift pump running?

 

[KPorchia]

yup

It's running and pushing a load of fuel out of the feed to the vp44 when I crack open the banjo fitting.

 

[Hasman06]

ck codes 1st, had one in the shop that decided to die here. Same scenario, brought in for a fuel filter, ended up changing out the lift pump, had good pressure to the vp44, but when I cracked the lines at the head, almost no fuel coming out, just a blurp here and there. Ended up needing a vp44 as well. Problem with these things is that one thing (plugged fuel filter and/or bad lift pump) leads to another--->vp44. Try and explain that one to a customer when he just brought it in for a filter change!

 

[firemandodge]

Mine did that to me last week. I opened #1,3 and 4 all at the same time and cranked until the truck tried to start, then tightened them down and it finally started. Cracking them one at a time didn't work. Hope that helps.

 

[KPorchia]

it started!

It started a short while ago. What I am confused about is when the injector lines were cracked open, I did'nt see much fuel squirtinq out. When I closed them in again, it fired right up. (?) I guess my question now would be, how do I know if the VP44 is on its way out? Still kinda new at this weird world of diesel. (where the hell are the sparkplugs!!)



Much thanks to all who helped. This is a great community to be frustrated around. Someone always seems to have a new perspective or suggestion to try. Again thanks



Kevin

 

[NoSeeUm]

The injectors need high pressure (3000 - 4500 psi) to open and supply fuel.



No fuel no ignition no spark plugs... .



Keep in mind the lift pump will only run for 20 or so seconds after you bump the starter.



I generally bleed my injector lines just like you did. Once I see a little fuel coming out or some froth I bump the starter a little longer to rotate the VP44 some, but I don't try to start the truck yet. I might repeat that a couple of times to make sure the VP44 is completely vented.



For fuel filter changes my truck has always started right up for me. It will run a little rough for a few seconds. I also make sure the fuel filter cannister is pretty much full of fuel prior to trying to start. I do this venting the air out at the VP44 inlet using my the vent on my fuel pressure gauge.



For my injector / VP44 changes I use a jumper to make the LP run continuesly while I am trying to vent. I also use an engine kill switch, but pulling the relay also works, so the engine will not try to start until I want it to.



Jim

 

[CFAR]

If you open the injectors to far it won't start, like others have said, crank till you see a little fuel, close and try to start.

 

[Cummins724]

I have always changed my filter, filled the canister with new fuel & bump my starter. The fuel pump will run for a minute then shut off after pressure is built. Then bump the starter again & repeat the process again. It will start right up... . no bleeding required.

 

[CFAR]

I never fill the canister, it defeats the purpose of the filter. Drain filter canister, remove filter, clean probes, and canister if necessary, replace filter, then bump starter, 5+ times, start and hopefully go.

 

[DNewell]

I never fill the canister, it defeats the purpose of the filter. Drain filter canister, remove filter, clean probes, and canister if necessary, replace filter, then bump starter, 5+ times, start and hopefully go.

Same with me. i drain canister, pull out old filter, clean the snot out of the canister, put new filter in, put back on truck, crack line going from canister to VP-44, and then crank over until mess spills on garage floor, crank banjo bolt back down, get in and start. Works good, makes good mess...

 

[WTBurke]

Guys, The two-pin connector that supplies DC voltage to your lift pump system (factory or other) can be un-plugged from the supplement weather-boot female that delivers the DC to what ever pumping device your operating. Then take a couple test leads with the little rubber covered alligator-clips apply them to the two pins. Then attache them to your battery plus and minus... it will then spin your pump without "bump cranking". I do this after a simple filter change and just let it run... . I can hear the "pitch" change as all the air in the system is eventually divorced and the delivery system purges out and becomes a pure flow of fuel. I never bump-crank... . activate your pump and let it do it's job. With the Cummins quiet you can listen to your delivery system and learn it's "song" when all is correct.

Doing this is done from the drivers side, just look for the DC lead where the factory lift pump gets it's DC. Just don't hook it up backwards... you are feeding DC to your pump or relay closure not backwards into the supplying harness. Do this and make it easy on yourself and stop bumping your starter... it's lame. You can observe your fuel pressure monitoring device and learn the "song" your system sings as it plays the "feeding song".



William

 

[Chief USA]

changed the fuel filter, same story as everyone before. Filled the canister, bled the feed to the vp44, no start. Changed the lift pump. Bumped the starter 10,000 times. Re-bled the feed. Bled the injector lines to #'s 1,3,4. Sputter, sputter, surging, stall. Now nothing at all. Truck ran like a top before. I am ready to set this thing on fire. And anything that says Dodge. Never thought a fuel filter would turn into a 5 day project.

Sorry just needed to vent.

IF the injector pump is function properly (sometimes this is a BIG IF) fill the filter canister with a CLEAN container (I use and 2 stroke oil mixing syringe, they are about $2 at Walmart) and KNOWN CLEAN fuel (I pull it directly out of my tractor fuel tank or a clean fuel can) to the edge of the top of the fuel canister lip. Then install the fuel canister top. (this will cause some fuel to over flow the sides of the canister as you tighten the top down)This will displace as much air in the canister as is possible. Next remove the cap from the schrader valve on the injector pump. Have someone bump the starter and while the lift pump cycles; bleed fuel from the schrader valve until you get NO air bubbles. Replace cap on schrader valve. As a precaution, have someone bump the starter and cycle the lift pump several more times.



Now, try to start the engine. Give it a few attempts if it does not start immediately. IF no start, open the injector fittings on the cylinder head (the 1st 4 injector fittings should be enough to get the engine to start; #5 and especially #6 injectors are a big pain in the behind) Have someone turn the engine over until you see good consistent fuel bursts coming from the injector fittings. Tighten injector fittings.



Now, try to start the engine. Hopefully it will now start but it will run really rough due to #5 and #6 injectors still having air in the lines. Hold the rpms around 1,200 rpm and let the engine run until the injector pump pushes enough fuel through the lines to purge the remaining air and it smooths out.



I tried changing the fuel filter using the lift pump to prime the system the first time I changed my fuel filter. I had the same results as you with lift pump producing 15 psi. The lift pump in my opinion is not capable of priming the fuel system. I tried the above method and was able to get the engine started without bleeding the injector lines in my case.



Good luck and post how things go.

 

[Seafood10]

I have done many fuel filter changes... . my driveway is a sttep grade and I park it with the driving end facing down and never had a problem with bleeding or the like. In my boat I have Detroits and they are level and do need bleeding, just my . 02.

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

I've had good luck when changing injectors by holding the accelerator pedal down to the floor while cranking.