Here I am

ARP Head studs soon availible (and a lot cheaper then what's currently availible!!!!)

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Its time for bigger turbo & injectors on '06

New 2012 CRD with Bully Dog, what is max EGT?

Willyslover, I agree with you to a point-, in general, when a Diesel vendor cranks out a 1000% mark up they DESERVE to be undercut.

I don't know if this is the case with studs, as I have never bought a set.



Good parts at a fair price, the world will beat your door down.



That aside, here is the link to DC, which is some really good reading on studs and stength, and who did what.



http://www.diesel-central.com/forums/thread.asp?ForumID=33&TopicID=2220
 
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Here's a brand new Cummins head bolt that broke when re-torquing the head.



I blew my head gasket with mild BOMBing of fuel plate, blocked wastegate and advanced timing. I went with a set of Piers' studs in the replacement. I did not o-ring.



If you BOMB I consider a head gasket replacement as "when" not "if".
 
Jim;



The fishout was on a 96 they did the day before my truck. Luckily it was one of the forward bolts and not buried under the cowl.



I can do most any engine wrenching myself, but decided to have Mike's Custom Trucks do the job in case more was needed.

Mike's has all the equipment for new exhaust guides, machining for Cummins new stem seals, planing, and simple valve job. Uh my head needed all of the mentioned. I had already committed to head studs and Mike ordered from Piers.





Piers;

How many times can you retorque before replacing the nuts?
 
Originally posted by T. Baker

Aprox. what boost and timing require studs? If you aren't "o" ringed or fire ringed are studs any help?

I will soon have twins but I am going to stay below 45 PSI on boost. I'm going to leave my timing at 15*



If you are going to twins and only going to run 45 psi of boost you are missing some of the benifit of twins. I am running 55 lbs with a stock head gasket and studs with no problem, I will keep creeping up the boost to see if I can find the limit. I have been to 65 a few times and no problem yet but we will see in the long term, I think I have about 3k on the twins so far.
 
JohnE, I understand you didn't do it but that's a very risky fishout method. Had that bolt been in there too tight to get out with that method by heating it with the electrode you've just made it wayyy to hard to drill. I'm glad it worked you for you but a word of caution.



-Scott
 
Originally posted by SRadke

JohnE, I understand you didn't do it but that's a very risky fishout method. Had that bolt been in there too tight to get out with that method by heating it with the electrode you've just made it wayyy to hard to drill. I'm glad it worked you for you but a word of caution.



-Scott



No I didn't do it, but have had to resort to some extreme measures to pull broken head bolts or studs. Drilling is my least favorite (but often the only method) because if you damage threads in the block that reduces your reliability. EZ-outs can cause bore stretch too.



For this illustrated case, the bolt broke on re-torquing the head. So the options are either pulling the head or trying an old school retrieve. The bolt stub was slightly above the block deck so it was an easy tack.



Lots of questions on "why" go to studs. Piers mentioned the higher clamping force. That's only part , more sustained clamping force finishes the statement. Head bolts continue stretching much more than studs. More sustained clamping pressure means the water & oil passages will hold seal and keep the cylinder gasses home.



I didn't get a good photos of my head gasket but 3 water passages were blown and 2 oil passages too. Cylinder #4 & 5 were passing gas and carbon fouled a couple of head bolts. Not bad for a mildly BOMBed engine?



OK I got the bad side of things? NO. The head wasn't very far off true and well within Cummins specs. Now I have a true and polished head to hold the seal along with the studs.



Cost? I consider Piers' pricing very reasonable especially for a reliable method to keep the head gasket functional. Someone spent the time to put together a set that didn't exist from ARP, yet others complain they want a bottom dollar price off someone elses homework.

Development cost must get absorbed somewhere in the money cycle. This holds true for head studs, o-ring/fire ring, synthetic oils, clutches, turbochargers, or any new product development.

Look at the original pricing for a simple 12 valve fuel plate and how much it has dropped over the years.



Sorry for the long post, but lots of questions to answer and comments to respond with my spin on things.



-John
 
Originally posted by JohnE
... Lots of questions on "why" go to studs. Piers mentioned the higher clamping force. That's only part , more sustained clamping force finishes the statement. Head bolts continue stretching much more than studs. ...

As a generally non-mechanical computer geek, would it be reasonable to say that the main difference between studs and bolts is that, with bolts, the whole bolt is being twisted when torqued, which can cause ... odd stress patterns, whereas when torquing a nut on a stud, the stud doesn't twist much at all - in essence, it is just being stretched?

To my digital mind, a lot of the work of torquing a bolt (especially a long bolt) goes to twisting it, whereas most of the work of torquing a nut onto a stud goes directly to clamping. And this should simply explain the superiority of studs, any studs, over bolts.

Oh, sorry. Didn't mean to drift OT. I'll go back to my bits, nibbles and bytes now.

N
 
Clamping force is by stretching the bolts or studs. Similar to wrapping the rubber band 3 times instead of 2 times. Studs use a thicker rubber band.

Electrical clamping is a different concept.



I asked the nut question as the female threads are typically softer than the male threads.



byte me electron boy. <G>
 
ARP HEAD STUDS - WE HAVE BEEN A WD FOR ARP SINCE 1985. WE HAD THEM MAKE STUD KITS FOR THE 5. 7, 6. 2, 6. 5 AND 7. 3 DIESELS BACK IN THE DAY. WE APPROACHED THEM IN MARCH OF 2000 AND GAVE THEM DRAWINGS FOR THE 5. 9, AFTER MANY MONTHS OF CALLING AND FAXING THEM THEY FINALLY GAVE US A QUOTE OF $826/SET. WE THOUGHT THERE MUST OF BEEN A MISTAKE, SO WE ASKED... THEY SAID THERE WOULD BE A SET UP FEE FOR EACH STUD. I ASKED THEM IF WE PUT TOGETHER AN ORDER FOR 100 SETS WOULD THEY RECONSIDER THE PRICE. THE SAID "NO!"



OUR CUSTOMER WAS WILLING TO PAY THE PRICE, SO WE ASKED THEM TO GO AHEAD AND BUILD THEM. AFTER ED'S TRUCK SITTING HERE FOR OVER 6 MONTHS, NUMEROUS PHONE CALLS AND BEING TOLD WE'RE GOING TO GET TO THEM... BLAH BLAH BLAH, WE WENT IN SEARCH OF ANOTHER VENDOR AND FOUND A-1 TECHNOLOGIES. THEY WERE WILLING TO WORK WITH US. WE DID SOME CHECKING ON THEM. THEY BUILD STUDS FOR MANY TOP FUEL AND NASCAR TEAMS SUCH AS RCR, HENDRICKS AND DEI.



A REPRESENTATIVE FROM ARP CALLED SOMETIME A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO INQUIRING ABOUT OUR PURCHASES, WHY JUST NUTS AND WASHERS AND NO STUDS? I ASKED IF HE REALLY CARED OR IF THIS WAS JUST A ROUTINE CALL TO EVERYONE. HE SAID HE CARED AND I FILLED HIM IN. HE ASKED FOR ANOTHER CHANCE, WOULD I FAX THE DRAWINGS, HE GAVE THE PERSON FOR WHOM TO DIRECT THE QUOTE TO. I FAXED THE DRAWINGS, 2 YEARS LATER AND WE STILL HAVEN'T HEARD BACK FROM THEM.



MY OPINION IS THEY DIDN'T WANT IN AT THE START, NOW THAT WE'VE PROVEN IT TO BE EFFECTIVE, THEY WANT IN.



WHILE TESTING, WE TRIED 12MM 220KSI AND FOUND IT NOT EFFECTIVE ON THE 12V. OUR CONCERN WITH 12MM 220 IS THE THREAD STRENGTH OF THE BLOCK.



FOR THOSE WHO BUY OUR KITS, WE USE ARP 12PT NUTS, HARDENED WASHERS AND ARP MOLY LUBE. THE STUDS ARE MADE BY A-1.



FOLLOWING IS THE INFORMATION FROM F-1 REGARDING THE ARP STUDS. I FORWARDED THIS TO MR. DON TRAPP AT A-1, HE HAS INSERTED HIS COMMENTS ( ):



REBUTTAL TO ARP/FORMULA 1 DIESEL AD



These are the "real (copy) deal" in high performance head and main stud kits! Automotive Racing Products manufactured these studs for F1Diesel using the finest material, (what is their material? A1 uses 4340 or 8740 and H-11) rolled threads (A1 always rolls threads and always after heat treatment), and controlled heat treatment. When others will fail, the ARP fasteners will not. The studs are 12mm and do not require any machine work to the block or head. F1Diesel can broach an allen head socket into the studs using EDM (EDM must be expensive) for ease of removal and installation as well. (If the internal hex into the top end of the stud would make life easier, we can do that before heat treatment with a broaching machine. This would add about $1. 00 per stud but may be a nice feature for selling. It can be done to both the alloy studs and H-11. )



Full engagement of threads reduces stress concentrations at the root radius of the last thread. (This is why we manufacture the studs with a dog point, as it bottoms out in the block thereby distributing the load more evenly across all threads in the block. Not commonly done by ARP unless they are battling to copy A1. ) Shot-peening sets up a compressive stress on the surface that helps prevent cracking. (The shot-peening statement is correct regarding its effect, but absolutely unnecessary for this application. It is more commonly used in fatigue applications such as rod bolts. The most probably reason for ARP to use it in this application is to hide tooling marks from manufacturing. ) Perhaps the most critical process is thread rolling after heat-treatment—which accounts for a fatigue strength approximately ten times greater than those fasteners threaded prior to heat-treat. (This is true and as stated before A1 always and only rolls threads after heat treatment. ) Careful attention to the shape of the thread root radius and its blending with the flanks is crucial. All ARP® threads are rolled in accordance with MIL-S-8879 (This spec is as old as the hills and A1 as well as any respectable fastener manufacturer rolls threads in accordance to this spec. (the well-known fatigue resistant J-form thread). (A1 also rolls all of our threads to the J form, always has, which has a larger root radius, better for strength and fatigue properties. ) This ensures that notch sensitivity of the root section of the thread is reduced to the Mil-Spec minimum.



Ask others who sell studs if their stud threads are cut after heat treatment or before. (Any cut thread is a disaster waiting to happen, before or after heat-treat. ) It makes a difference in quality!! So far every aftermarket Cummins supplier we asked did not even know it made a difference. (Wonder if they actually really bothered to ask anyone, most likely not. )

Ask others if theirs are shot peened. Again, this is an art and not many shops can do or do it correctly. All ARP® stud kits include premium quality parallel ground washers and a choice of 12-point or hex-head nuts.



I WILL POST THIS ON OUR WEBSITE TO THAT IT MIGHT BE A BIT EASIER TO READ. www.HAISLEYMACHINE.COM



THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATRONAGE AND SUPPORT. WE WORK VERY HARD TO PROVIDE QUALITY PRODUCTS, SERVICE AND TECH SUPPORT FOR THE PRODUCTS WE SELL.



WE ARE ALWAYS HAPPY TO DISCUSS AND WORK WITH CUSTOMERS ON THEIR PERFORMANCE NEEDS AND PROBLEMS AND HELP PROVIDE THE BEST POSSIBLE SOLUTION THAT WE ARE AWARE OF. WE CANNOT FIX EVERYTHING, BUT ALWAYS TRY TO DO OUR BEST TO HELP YOU.



PLEASE UNDERSTAND, THAT PROBLEMS WITH PRODUCTS NOT PURCHASED FROM US SHOULD BE DISCUSSED WITH THE VENDOR YOU PURCHASED THEM FROM.



LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING EVERYONE AT MUNCIE!



SINCERELY, VAN AND PATTY HAISLEY
 
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Originally posted by fest3er

As a generally non-mechanical computer geek, would it be reasonable to say that the main difference between studs and bolts is that, with bolts, the whole bolt is being twisted when torqued, which can cause ... odd stress patterns, whereas when torquing a nut on a stud, the stud doesn't twist much at all - in essence, it is just being stretched?



To my digital mind, a lot of the work of torquing a bolt (especially a long bolt) goes to twisting it, whereas most of the work of torquing a nut onto a stud goes directly to clamping. And this should simply explain the superiority of studs, any studs, over bolts.



Oh, sorry. Didn't mean to drift OT. I'll go back to my bits, nibbles and bytes now.



N







Fester,



This is what Don had to say in regards to studs and bolts.



Neal,







You are correct about twisting force in cylinder head bolts being a drawback. That twisting stress is detrimental to converting the torque you apply with the wrench into fastener preload. All ARP studs are bottomed out and then backed off a 1/8 turn or so before they are tightened to allow the torsional forces to come from tightening the nut. The other stud brands that bottom out in the block causes the studs to twist much like the stock head bolts. Converting less wrench torque into fastener preload.





While on the subject of studs I thought it might be worth mentioning that ARP has a major NHRA contingency award program. If you win a race with their products in an NHRA event you can collect the cash!





Don Morrison

http://www.f1diesel.com
 
i dunno but when someone that has been a member of the site has been on 4 years and only had 2 posts... ... ... ... that means a lot too me... ... ... ...
 
Nathan,



Do you have any updates on how the studs are doing? There in my truck, not done yet, but just curious how things are going.



Brandon
 
Brandon,



I dont yet. I tried to do them on sunday and got bogged down by the weather and adapting a turbo to beta test in my 04. 5. The twins will be on this week so I have no choice but to get them in for a race friday night. BTW the single I tried was pretty impressive. With a little over 100hp injectors and a pressure box the max egt's were 1080*. I picked up 20hp with the turbo and the overall dyno number was 445hp without the TST. It's a little laggy for these new trucks but is extremely close to a 40 (boost starts at 1300rpms and I hit 20 or so by 2000) . I'm going to have another guy try it with just the TST box to see if it will live and if the boost can be controlled. He'll also try it with the next size smaller housing. Overall the temps went down nearly 300*, I picked up 20hp, and the boost wouldn't go over 31psi. I will let you know how things go when I get to run my truck again.



Nathan
 
Nathan,

Thanks for the info. Those are some nice numbers without the TST box. Hope to push my truck close to the 600hp mark and then... yep, going to have to change the pump out from what I hear. I'm just hoping the studs will hold up to 60-65lbs. of boost. I plan on also going to the track friday night for the first time with the twins on and the output shaft and lock-up switch in. Is there any chance that you or DonM will be making the trip to Muncie?



Brandon
 
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