ARP stud install ?? on an 02.

[Sticks]

OK, This is killing me.

After 6 years of saving up, I finally have a set of Source Automotive Twins, 4" exhaust, HTT 3pc Manifold, Jammer 3 Injectors, and ARP studs still sitting in my living room for coming up on 3 weeks now. :{

I knew leaving my job as a shop mechanic to a field service mechanic was going to bite me in the butt. I have yet to be able to have a weekend off, and be able to get my truck into the micro shop at work to do the install. Wish I knew someone with a big garage or shop with tools in the Denver area.

Anyhow...

I just want to make sure that I have the stud install procedure down correctly for when the stars align and I can get this done.

Presuming this picks up after the valve cover and rocker arm removal...
1. Remove head bolt #1 in the OEM sequence.
2. Clean out the bolt hole.
3. Lube ARP stud and thread it all the way down, then back off 1/2 turn.
4. Lube top of ARP stud, install washer, and thread nut all the way down, torque to 125#.
5. Repeat 1-5 for all 26 studs.

Now here is where I start to get fuzzy.

6. Reinstall rocker arms, set valve lash, install valve cover.
7. Start and run engine to operating temperature.
8. After engine cools down (6 hours to be safe) remove valve cover, etc, break loose and retorque nuts to 125# in the OEM sequence, reinstall removed items.

Do I need to bottom out the stud and back it off again after I break the nut loose? Am I supposed to break the nut loose?

9. Drive truck for a day or two w/o flogging it - READ drive like a Texan in Colorado during a snow storm.
10. W/O breaking loose the nuts, retorque nuts to 125 in OEM sequence.
11. Repeat 9-10, 2 more times.
12. Drive as normal.

Do I have this right? Missing a step? Close but not quite right?

Thanks in advance for your guidance.

Sticks

 

[ata]

No do not brake the nuts loose or try to readjust studs in the block. Just retorque in sequence. I would let the engine sit over night then retorque. (colder the better)

 

[Hammer]

With all the stuff your wanting to add I see a blown headgasket in your future if you do not O-Ring the head. The twins will put enough strain on the gasket,with or without,studs.



I know its your truck but if I was going to add all of what you have listed then I would have the head pulled and taken to get it O-Ringed to ensure you can stomp on it safely without worry... ... Andy

 

[Sticks]

Hammer - The twins set is my stock HX35 over a S400. Keeping the pop off valves set at 50. The power enhancements are going toward a tow rig rather than a race truck.

I know the risks of the high boost, and I am confident that I will keep the stock gasket intact. If it does blow, then it blows.